Safari Snorkel install guide

[Jeep'ers]

I'm starting this thread a little early purly as I'm excited and bored at the same time. Next weekend I'll be installing my Safari and will post all pics and tools used including other items needed as I go along. We have a thread for airflow however not for Safari. I'll post pics of templates on panels etc just as the other threads have.

So far tools I have got are sikaflex 227 ($14 Bunnings), drill nibbler ($49 Bunnings), painters tape ($2 Bunnings), anti rust primer paint ($12 Bunnings) and a paint brush. I have other tools like cordless jig saws etc which I hope wont be needed. Snorkel ($495 ARB Moorebank) has been ordered and will arrive Friday Morning. http://www.safarisnorkel.com/docs/snorkel/jeep.html

Pics comming soon

[Nobster]

Good LUCK!!!

[Jeep'ers]

Okay today I picked up the Snorkel kit..... #$%^ me it was a big box took up the whole back seat, But in saying that it is a VERY nice kit. Instructions are very easy to read and all replacement parts for the jeep's guards came with it. But it looks like a good challenge, the kit says it will take 480 minutes to complete and old peices can be discarded so if you'd like my old bits let me know

In the Kit:
Parts for the assembly and the templates for drilling. I must say they seem much easier to follow than the ones posted on the airflow less dramas it seems but we'll see tomorrow.

Tools required:

Lock tight, painters tape, drill bits (3mm, 5mm), 62mm, 76mm, 92mm hole saw bits, Step up drill, Drill nibbler/ air saw, Touch up primer paint sikaflex 227.

Most of if not all of these tools are at bunnings and you then have them for future reference lol. My tool collection is growing monthly due to the kj haha:hammer:

[Aus Patriot]

Just one tip.

When taking the guard off be very gentle with the clips that hold the bottom moulding under the door.
Those button clips are very fragile and the kit does not supply them.
I needed 3 and they were 3 bucks each from Jeep.

[Jeep'ers]

Just one tip.

When taking the guard off be very gentle with the clips that hold the bottom moulding under the door.
Those button clips are very fragile and the kit does not supply them.
I needed 3 and they were 3 bucks each from Jeep.

Thanks mate, will do I figured if I broke them pop rivets with washers would do the job fine as they wouldn't be seen,:cool:

[Jeep'ers]

Well the paperwork that come with it seems to make the job "look" easy but it was a bit of a poo fight to say the least but all in all a good project that is achievable if you put your mind to it and have some good planning. The instruction that come with the kit are very clear however the template could use a little refining as some of the holes I need to cut were slightly too small or a bit off.... The parts themselves are very good quality and hard to break..... However there were some casualties like the airconditioner pipe that goes across the engine and not the one near the pannel you cut into surprisingly.lol anyways all fixed and now regassed haha

There are 19 steps or so in the plans and covered hopefully most of them with pics as I swore along lol.

First you have to remove the internal wheel well guard just drill the plastic pop rivits out attaching the guard to the flare you will replace them later and the flare including the plasic pannel under the door.... The flares clips come undone when you slide the flare up and not pulling on it and the same for the one under the door. all are covered in your service mannual apparently... I never knew..

Once the flares and internal guard are out take the clips out of the pannel and place them back into plast flare: Tip squeeze the back of clips to remove.
See the first pics

[Jeep'ers]

Once plastics are removed and the panels are cleaned follow the instructions by lining up the holes of the templates with those of the holes the clips were in that held the flare. Tape them in place....double check and the mark the lines and holes out with a felt tip pen: Tip- mark lines on the tops and side of pannel to make lining up the pannel later a little easier..

Once lined and marked... and a few anxiety tablets later apply painters tape, start drilling your 3mm pilot holes where needed use a step up drill to make the pilot holes 16mm.

There are two hole left to use as pilot hole for 60mm hole saw I used a 62mm and worked out better infact especially when it came to puting the panel back on. Go slow here, use a clutched battery driven drill not a 240v drill as this is way too powerfull and WILL cause you some drama's.

See pics

[Jeep'ers]

Step two: Pull The nicely distroyed panel off and paint the deges with pimer paint.

Place the second template on to the panel lining up the top holes with the holes the bolts holding the pannel on were in. Replace the bolts with the template and then tape it in place. Mark the holes and the lines and remove the template like the first.

Drill the pilot holes with 3mm drill and the use the same 62 mm hole saw. Like the first pannel just link up the holes with a drill nibbler and thus you have an oval hole in the second panel like the first.

To this point so far I was done in an hour...

[Jeep'ers]

From here it gets interesting... Remove the airbox and all its fittings, and a good tip cover the engine bay with an old blanket of some kind. place the last template over the bracket plate in the engine bay, remove the bracket holding the alarm switch it will be relocated and cut later however I chose to move it else where... Tape the template out and mark the lines..... CAREFULL here there are plenty of curves and so on which makes it hard to mark and extremely hard to hole saw and impossible to drill nibble......3 hours later and $80 repairs to pipes and still have not regased aircon yet it pays for you to do the drilling and NOT your Firefighter mate...:rolleyes: Also move the wiring harness out of the way.. thankfully I had already done that before the spectacular explosion of aircon gas

again 3mm pilot holes and this time 76 mm hole saw does the trick... take it very slow though... once done I used a small angle grinder and finished the job off.

Paint all panels again..

[Jeep'ers]

Once all pannels are cut and painted, place rubber around the edges to protect the stalk and the rubber from the airbox a little. Place all pannels back onto the car tighten up, Place lock tight on the four studs supplied and hand tighten them into the snorkel then place on the guard and ensure the snorkel is fitting correctly through all holes.

Once fitting correctly, pull the rubber lining off the door and then unscrew the plastic liner along "A" pillar. Loosley bolt the A pillar plate into the snorkel and mark around the plate as well as the three holes. Place the plastic back and mark where the plate will go.

Cut the plastic where indicated in instrcutions and your measurements. Then tape and drill two holes and widen a hole that was already there. Tip: I started with a 1.5mm drill then progressed upwards to 5mm.

Once drilled then, place the plastic back and the cut out area should be where the plate now will be. Screw it in. Place adheasive sealant and then poprivet the plate in place.

Once done remove snorkel and pannels.... Time to start on the airbox.

[Jeep'ers]

This was a nervous moment, but purely due to the wierd measurements you have to do... But 8.4mm and 9mm across, finnally after scratching our heads and bums a 92mm holesaw cut a hole through the airbox. Remove the ribs on the inside and outside around the massive hole with a sharp knife and then shave the remains flat...

Once done, place the rubber inside the hole and mark where the three holes are placed and double check them, its a tight squeeze but three holes need to be 5mm. Place sikaflex 227 the same as on the "A" pillar around the hole then place the rubber through the hole lining up the holes then place the steal backing plate behind it and pop rivet the plat squashing the rubber onto the sikaflex and locking everything in place. Pop rivets go from the outside in.

Then place sikaflex 227 on the inside of the origonal air intake. Place the blanking plate in and then seal again with heaps of sikaflex to seal airbox and the drain holes at the bottom inside of the airbox. TIP: With the intial intake I left two small holes where the clips used to be so water wouldn't pool ontop of the blanking plate. Once dry I sprayed it all black.

[Jeep'ers]

Okay now crunch time to see if your measurements were spot on haha... Fix the snorkel to the pannel that is now off the vehicle with the lock nuts and washers. Bring the pannel to vehicle, clip in the indicator light and then start guiding and lining up the marks you made to place the pannel where it origonaly was. Once where you like it tighten up all bolts attach the snorkel to a pillar and hope that when you put the airbox in it all fits....:rolleyes:

[Jeep'ers]

Once in place all lined up, airbox goes in, so all wiring harnesses, all extra metal filing are in place or removed simply push the box in place. A little jigging and heaps of swearing the rubber from airbox finally fits over the snorkel. Once its on it glides on easy but getting it to do so was.......fun. Silver clamp supplied secures it and all is done ready for a test.

Turn the vehicle on, and place a piece of paper on the air ram if it sticks, theres no leaks!!Penguin.

Lucky I had no leaks and all was spot on first time around. The clamp was easy to put on as I put it on the rubber prior to me putting the airbox back into the engine bay.

[Jeep'ers]

Now all the plastics go back... First the inner wheel guard, then the under door plastic guard, remember to pop rivet this in place. Then the flare... again with a little swearing she went on fine. Finish off all pop rivets to the black under door plastic then to the inner wheel well plastics with pop rivets provided in kit with snorkel. And hell yeah she's done for half the price ARB or the like were going to charge and have the exact same result.

Drove a test drive and instantly felt more power and felt better. It was also more responsive to the foot.

I have heaps of other pics and if you'd like to see something in particular I can post them, if I haven't got one I'll take on haha

[Gi Frog]

Hi all,
Nice job Royce, looks good how long from start to finshed ?
Cheers
gi frog

[Jeep'ers]

Hi all,
Nice job Royce, looks good how long from start to finshed ?
Cheers
gi frog

Hi James, excluding the frantic search for someone to fix the aircon pipe and flat drill battery (I had lent my GMC set to a mate and didn't get it back in time) I probably would have done it in near six hours, however flat batteries and 3 hours of driving around saw it end in near 11 hours :confused: on and off but it was a good experience and fantastic project..

[cmohr]

Nice result there Jeep'ers..

[Aus Patriot]

Nice mate......

No matter if its airflow or safari it changes the look of the vehicle in a good way.
Much meaner.........

[Jeep'ers]

Cheers Fella's yeah the end justfied the hard frustrating work, It should come out factory like this.... haha if only! Dont see why if ARB etc have the proper tools and the know how.... how they justify such a high cost and having your vehicle for two full days, two techs using propper tools they'd easily smash it out in a days work.....

[Aus Patriot]

Not sure what these guys are up to where you are or what this 2 full days is about.

4wd Adventure/Mandurah Rod did mine in 6hrs on his own and that was 30min with his lunch break.

Strange indeed :shock:

[Jeep'ers]

Just reread through this, if you are going to do one yourself it is a relitively easy job to do but is time consuming, so here are some tips from my experiences through.

1 have a box for all the car bits to go into as soon as they come off.... this will save you time looking for the parts monster....

2 take your time, dont rush, accidents DO happen..... plan ahead and have a second set of hands, makes this much easier and enjoyable...

3 While waiting for paint to dry or if there is a delay, start on a seperate job like doing the airbox, this saves time.

4 Measure twice cut once, have full batteries and plan your jobs before the day you install..... print off the pics to help you get a visual.... I printed off CRD STU's pics and planned mine including ensuring you have the right tools for each step of the process.

5 WD40 is great!! Use it when cutting through the internal pannels, this helps the blades and makes for easier time.

6 Lay your tools out in order and lay your parts out in order, label them and follow the process, I cut the box open and lay the parts out and labelled each on the cardboard.

7 Most importantly, have the missus bring you plenty of beer and chips and the occasional squeeze on the bum:eek: to relieve the frustrasion and make it more of a "happier" project:rolleyes::cool:Penguin

[2JeepFamily]

Looks good Jeepers, its good to finally see one on a KJ. Good job on the write up too.

[Jeep'ers]

thanks 2JF it came out a treat!!

[cmohr]

the occasional squeeze on the bum:eek:




Mmmmmm, Must get one of these "Bum Squeezers" for my tool kit, they sound handy.

[Pipeliner]

They don't make them in your size unfortunately.

[Jeep'ers]

Mmmmmm, Must get one of these "Bum Squeezers" for my tool kit, they sound handy.

haha, mine wasn't cheap either:cool::rolleyes::lol: