i've been asked a few times to put a build up thread on here by a few people, so here it is.
Even though the FSJ was an ongoing work in progress, I saw this when Wayne / OIIIIIO first listed it and considered buying it. Nah, its a TJ, wtf do I want that for?
Then Zach (who only owned it far about 3 months) decided to move to the US and listed it for sale again. So the deal was done, Damn.
Plans are to build it (continue to build it?) into a very capable social wheeling rig, and maybe run some comps (Vicwhinch etc) in the future..... but I'm not yet sure if I like the idea of paying over $400 per event to thrash and break my own vehicle.......?????? Some further work will be needed to run comps (ie cage specs, wiring issues, safety gear etc) but will see what the future holds once its complete (ie how I want it).
Here's the basics (if you can call them that) as done 100% by the sheep shagger:
4.7L stroker (less than 10,000k's)
Fully balanced and making 275hp and 335ft/lb's
max hp just on 4500rpm, and 330ftlbs @ 3400 rpm
Custom short arm suspension based on Rubicon Express 3.5" superflex.
Longer control arm ends, modified lowers with superflex joints on both ends.
Triangulated 4 link rear (no panhard).
3.5 front coils, 2.5 rear coils
Outboarded rear shocks with towers ~6 inches above stock height and almost vertical
Rear spring mount re-located back along the frame to match stretch and get coil vertical
Wheelbase sits at 98" on 35's. (rear stretched 2.5")(front stretched 2")
Rancho RSXL shocks with "myride" controller - fronts have just under 16" travel and the rear 14"
front set up to have 3.5" of up travel and the rears have 4.5" of up travel.
All rear links are adjustable - anti-squat can be adjusted anywhere from 70% up to 150%. It's currently around 106%.
Control arms have re-located mounts and have been flattened out from 25 degress to 11 (R) and 13(F)
Currie Anti-Rock sway bar in the front
Stock sway bar with extended links on the rear
Hydro Assist with newly rebuilt steering box (ram is not fitted at the moment)
Bullet Proof steering: highsteer cross over design with 1"/78's chrome moly links and 1 tonne TRE's
Highsteer arm on Pass knuckle, poly performance dampner.
Power Steering fluid cooler
New brass/copper radiator and clutch fan (never runs hot, ever!)
Dodge Ram brake master cylinder/ZJ proportioning valve
GenRight stretch EXT fuel tank. Same capacity as stock. Still have 1.5"-2" room to stretch back
Nth Degree sump guard
Terraflex Belly up skid
Bestop highrock front bar
Warn M8000 winch, 12mm x 30m plasma rope, poly performance fairlead, Titan solid state solenoid under bonnet, in cab control
Warn rock sliders
Currie rear bar
Dual batteries and management
Custom switch panel, Lockers, Winch, accessories controls.
Hard wired air compressor in cab
GME remote head UHF
Bestop seat covers
Bestop Safari top/Duster/Tonneau
Custom removable shelf and bulkhead to rear tub
Upgraded dash speakers, 6x9 speakers mounted in bulkhead behind seats, remote control stereo with removable face.
Windscreen light mounts (no lights fitted)
Mirror relocation brackets
Removable mud flaps
Search Wayne's threads for pics, but when I got it it had some black pro_comp alloys and 33" Khumo all terrains.
As its six stud (same as Patrol, FSJ etc) the first thing i diod was bolt the 37" x 13 X 15 Boggers on beadlocked steel rims on.
Checked the flex: not bad but the rim offset was completely wrong and at rest (cant really see by these pics) the tyres stuck out about 2-3" per side.
Went for a wheel around Neerim one night, and once I got used to suspension noises and clunks, decided it did actually go failry well offroad. Who'd have thought.....
As I was selling bits off the FSJ fast and funds were flowing in, I made the decision to bite the bullet and do some more work. Given I paid less than $20k for a TJ that must have had in excess of $40k in mods and upgrades, it wasnt a difficult decision to drop a few more $$ on it to finish it off.
Walker Evans wheels with 4.75" backspacing to suit the wider Solid Axle Ind diffs were sorted via Al Mac and Henry at ProComp, and found some brand new 37" BFG Krawlers for sale, second hand but never bolted onto rims.
So, wheels and tyres on, the suspension was next......
bearing in mind the axles and spring perch height was all non factory it was going to be trial and error a bit.
Springs in it were long and flexy and soft, with only a couple of inches of up and about 7+inches of down travel. I found wheeling at anything over 20kmh saw it bouncing off the bump stops over tree roots and rocks, so it had to change.
A set of 4" Currie coils were fitted...... wrong. It raised the rear by about 2.5", and the front by maybe 1/2". Hmmm. Looking and asking around, found JKS ACOS adjustable spring perches, which solved the problem with the front being adjustable from about 3/4" to 3.5" higher than stock. Of course, just because, had to have hydro bumps, meh, its only money right? So on they went. Thanks Wooders the man!
A bit of playing around with the spring perch height gave me the even stance I was looking for, with about 5" of up travel and still a heap of down. Note the shock travel is 16" at front and 12" at rear......
Will post pics of the ACOS and bumps set up later, only pic now is a phone pic taken in the dark......
At that time had a good look at the suspension bushes....... like a NZ sheep, they were complete shagged (get the link? LOL). With the torque this thing has, steering in a straight line whilst accellerating (esp in first-third) was quite an adventure.... the front axle headed left.
The front uppers were completely gone, rear joints were dryer than a nuns.... 3 out of 4 grease nipples busted or gone altogether, with one Hiem joint siezed on the bolt..... still is on the to do list, but at least the joint is now greased and all is silent again. And filled the tailshafts with grease too, and greased uni's etc. About then the front std uni's were replaced with Nitro 300's, similar in strength to CTM's and fitted with greasable zerk fittings which need to be filled every trip. The front diff was also pulled apart to replace a weeping axle seal, and it was found a spindle bearing was shot...... these diffs run spindles and outer hubs just like a FSJ front 44 set up, not TJ type unit bearings.
15-04-2011, 02:06 PM
howd you fit 16 inch shocks up front without going into the engine bay?
15-04-2011, 02:25 PM
So suspension basically sorted, next was the winch....... a Warn M8000 was fitted with rope etc, but was sloooooooooowww. Painfully slow. What to fit?
What the hell, go a full spec competition winch. (if you are considering this, buy the winch on its own, then add nearly the same amount again for solonoids, motors, batteries, 24v alternator, winch cradle, rope, cables......). Gigglepin winches are made in the UK, and used there and here in all levels of competition. Whilst the twin motor top hat will bolt onto a warn highmount bottom end, going the full hog meant a wider drum for more rope carrying capacity, bearings in place of bushes, additional bracing and webbing castings for stiffness, and an air powered freespool mechanism, which means the gearbox is completely disengaged from the drum so the rope can be pulled out by hand easily and quickly.
As a side note, strangely Yanks havent yet discovered these winches, although I hear a few made an appearance at King of Hammers off road event this year, so maybe it wont take long for the US to switch onto these.
Got a used already widened Warn highmount cradle from Johnny S,(offroad competitor) and modded it a bit more to accept the 6 bolt Gigglepin pattern (Warn highmounts mount up with 4 bolts). The drum is 75MM wider than a std Warn, so the cradle braces had to be cut and re-mounted splayed out a bit more. Powdercoated by some kiwi bloke (thanks Phil) and for less than the price of a new one the winch cradle was done.
Mounting included cutting almost ALL of the standard grille out....
Then came the issues of batteries- two 6hp motors drawing up to 400A each means you better have a good supply of power, so 2 x D31 Optimas went in the back. A cradle was fabbed to hold these, bolting up to the standard rear seat mounts. In between sits a 1 gallon air tank, which will be to power the air operated free spool via a pressure switch and an ARB Air Locker soloniod, plus tyre inflation, and in future a light bar.
However, 2 motors also means a total of 8 heavy cables having to pass through the radiator support panel.....
As the air con compressor was siezed (overworked in Qld perhaps?) out it came, along with the air con plumbing, condenser, dryer.... and I then had a neat hole for the cables to go through. 2 x Albright solonoids were mounted on the RH inner guard, and cables run.
Note this rig already had one Albright (or was it a Titan?) solonoid and in cab controls for a winch.
Battery power runs to the front via a 90mm2 cable, which then feeds both soloniods.
Rope was saved off the highmount I ran on the FSJ.... only 38m long, but will do for now. This thing will hold around 50m of 12mm rope, so an upgrade will be made later on.
Had a few comments re the winch blocking airflow: no it doesnt seem to affect running temps one bit, even with the radiator half full of mud (LOL @ last pic above). Has a good fan clutch and shroud and temps never seem to climb beyond about 90-95. thermo can be fitted to front of radiator if need be.
15-04-2011, 02:33 PM
Pics of rear battery cradle, air tank etc to be posted shortly, and will do pics of other stuff. At the mo the winch is running 12v, but a new internally regg'd Bosch 24v 55A alternator will be mounted in place of the air con compressor. Then a simple case of switching leads around on the batteries to run them in series instead of parallel as they currently are, and then running a 3rd lead from the alt back to the batteries in the rear to complete a closed 24v loop set up. At 24v, the winch should pull at least twice as fast as it does now. BTW, the Gigglepin winch is geared 60% faster than a standard Warn highmount, which has the fastest line speed of any Warn winch made.
In answer to the question above, the shock mounts (top and bottom) are all fabricated. I didnt do it, ask Wayne, lol.
On wheeling it at night, it was apparent the lights were crap.... and the switch dodgy. Its always fun half way up a steep rutted rock strewn hill at 10pm and the lights go out.
New switch, HD loom with seperate relays and fuses, new lamps with fatter globes, and also mounted LHF 170's with 75W HID and heavy loom off the FSJ. Now we have light.
Gonna be a weapon once you get it sorted and have it the way you like it :D Definately a value buy :)
17-04-2011, 05:45 PM
So this is your "social wheelin rig"
17-04-2011, 07:13 PM
So this is your "social wheelin rig"
given what I paid for it, plus spent, less what I got for parts for the FSJ, it only owes me about $25k.... cheap huh? LOL
You should do it too Gildo, actually get out and wheel one of those Heeps...
17-04-2011, 07:30 PM
Yep I should drive one one day...
All Ive done with any of them in the last 3 11/2 years is wash, transport, store and buy extras for the damn things.
Dont even drive the things and all 3 are still costing me $$$$$$$$$!
Nice TJ BTW Richo.
18-04-2011, 08:32 AM
Looks like its going to be one hell of a weapon. Some great additions there Rich.
18-04-2011, 10:24 AM
Yeah thanks, Wayne did all the hard work, I'm just finishing it off.
Have a CCDA spec cage and 3.0 2 speed Atlas lined up too. At this stage it has nowhere to carry the spare, but the CCDA cage has a tyre mount on the rear stays; either that, or if I retain the standard cage will look at getting a rear bar with tyre carrier.
The Atlas will go in sooner or later to replace the hack and tap standard transfer.
Also a led lightbar is on the cards too for night wheeling, the HID's etc are good but need a better spread of light.
Otherwise, just bit and peices to be fixed as posted earlier. And wheel the snot out of it.
19-04-2011, 06:57 PM
TJ looks great!
Curious as to what you did when you removed the air-con compressor. Did you replace it with a pulley and bracket from a non air-con TJ?
19-04-2011, 09:34 PM
Air con clutch was siezed when I got it, had shorted serp belt on it already and air con was bypassed. I reckon it would be from a non air model.
20-04-2011, 04:55 PM
07-06-2011, 12:28 PM
G'day Richo, very nice setup!
How does the 24V alternator work in with the rest of the 12V systems in the Jeep - does it have a secondary 12V output line for the other stuff, or are you running a DC-DC converter?
Do you like your stroker? The 360 would be a hard act to follow, but the TJ is lighter. Is it still using the stock PCM and sensors or aftermarket?
07-06-2011, 12:58 PM
Dom, 24v alternator still isnt mounted, have been lazy I guess...... winch is still running 12v, and is still fast, way quicker than any stocker Warn.
have 2 D31 Optimas in the back on a dedicated loop for winch only. Currently in parallel, with a cable running off the main starter battery to them to charge.
Once the 24v bosch (internally regged) is mounted and connected, , then remove the charge cable from the 12v starter battery and change the cables on the optimas around to run them in series to make it a completely seperate 24v loop. Easy enough.
The stroker runs standard computer and sensors I think, but with bigger TB. I believe with aftermarket ECU it would go harder and I could then also run bigger injectors, different cam etc, but for now its fine.
Yeah, its no 360 but it goes ok, turns the 37's easy enough.
28-09-2011, 08:32 PM
OK, updates time...
New RE Heims fitted in the rear, as one was seized on the bolt and the other was beyond redemption.
The old small boss compressor was turfed.... No way in he'll it was up to inflating 37's.
Have fitted a new ARB twin motor compressor, after gabbing a bracket and sorting associated wiring. Have timed it inflating a fully deflated 37 (pulled the valve stem out till in was completely flat). Inflating it to 20psi took about two minutes. Not bad. I recon a 33 would take just over a minute.
Also have removed the light force hid's and fitted up a 50" rigid light bar on rigid brackets thanks to Billy at Double Black. Wow.
A few more bits and pieces done, put 50m of new 12mm rope on it. Have also junked 2 of the cheapo busted flares and replaced them with Warns.... would have done all 4 but some old derro and his gay assed dog came over and forced beers into me.
And wheeled it quite a bit. Never fails to impress me with it's ability, but have last week put 33's back on as a bit of a challenge and so I can actually use the winch. Btw, after a few initial issues re getting the alternator to charge the 24v set up is going well. On something light like the tj the winch is stupidly fast.
Is it a Rigid Industries 50"? keen to hear your thoughts Richo...
Also, are you happy with the Krawlers? I'm considering running those as opposed to my Swampers and I think they will be better for 'all round' 4x4ing...
23-11-2011, 11:45 AM
Yep Cambo, its a Rigid 50" with TJ brackets.
Not cheap, but good. Excellent, so much so i dumped the 70W HID LF 170's I was using for night highway driving. The light bar out does them in every way, and makes a mockery of them in the bush.
The Krawlers are ace, but i got them 2nd hand (never been fitted to rims, but were a year old). Pricey as hell, I believe over $800 a corner new.
37" hard compound treps would do the job every bit as good I reckon.
23-11-2011, 11:46 AM
how does the light bar go dick? worth the coin?
personally i think its fugly on an otherwise schmick jeep.... but if it does what it claims to i'd probably put it on mine too....
You have a TJ Rey? :P
23-11-2011, 12:16 PM
[/QUOTE] The Krawlers are ace, but i got them 2nd hand (never been fitted to rims, but were a year old). Pricey as hell, I believe over $800 a corner new.
37" hard compound treps would do the job every bit as good I reckon.[/QUOTE]
I actually have the exact same set of Krawlers so i think that's what I'll be running for the serious stuff...