CRD economy

[Vards]

Anyone got a CRD KK? What fuel consumption are you getting? My 2011 averages 11.4 l/100 around town but only gets down to mid to high 10s on the highway! Where is the 7.9 that was advertised for this engine? Should I be driving it in reverse?

Looking at the gde eco tune and exhausts. Has anyone done mods to the 2011 CRD and can offer results? CAI maybe?

Cheers

Vards

[Vards]

Also, im running stock eagles.

[ausjeeper]

The consumption on my JK (different engine?) came down after 20 000 km. Maybe the engine needs to run in first?

[Vards]

Fair call. I've done 5800 km in a month and a half. Are any older crds getting near 8l/100?

[glend]

It could very well be that your not driving it the way a diesel should be driven, for petrol driving habits will kill fuel economy in a CRD. The biggest problem for drivers with a petrol engine history is over reving a diesel, and not knowing where the torque is and how to use it. My KJ CRD with 70,000kms can easily get 8s and 9s on the highway with a full camping load and some serious mods: 3" lift, 255/70 tyres on 16x8 wheels, TJM bar, snorkel etc. Of course I run the GDE ECO tune and the Transmission tune, but the best investment is really an exhaust gas temperature gauge (EGT). If you have an EGT you can always see how hard the engine is working and how much fuel is going into producing power. If you drive to minimise your EGT you will maximise fuel economy (ECO tune or otherwise its all the same).

[Vards]

Cheers glend,
I am new to diesels, so thanks for the tips. You're right when you talking about torque i love the low range torque in this jeep. Especially driving in town. I do have an auto but so it just does its thing around town. Interstate im getting mid 10s /100 on cruise control at 110km/h. I was hoping for alot lower than that to give me more range. Hopefully it will settle. I'm very keen to find out what gde will do to the 2011 2.8 apparently they are not as squeezed as the older 2.8s. We'll see!

[BazzaC]

Around town stuck in traffic going nowhere and doing lots of very short city runs my consumption will blow out into the 11's. Better city running and no short cold engine runs mid 10's. Freeway driving 110km/h into the 9's. I don't reset the computer at all it just gets to those sorts of numbers in those conditions.

[Tasar]

mines done 21000 km and it gets 121/100k around town - can go to 13.5 14 in start stop - open road now getting down to low 9's - flat under 9

[single_single]

It could very well be that your not driving it the way a diesel should be driven, for petrol driving habits will kill fuel economy in a CRD. The biggest problem for drivers with a petrol engine history is over reving a diesel, and not knowing where the torque is and how to use it. My KJ CRD with 70,000kms can easily get 8s and 9s on the highway with a full camping load and some serious mods: 3" lift, 255/70 tyres on 16x8 wheels, TJM bar, snorkel etc. Of course I run the GDE ECO tune and the Transmission tune, but the best investment is really an exhaust gas temperature gauge (EGT). If you have an EGT you can always see how hard the engine is working and how much fuel is going into producing power. If you drive to minimise your EGT you will maximise fuel economy (ECO tune or otherwise its all the same).

Hi Glend. I'm quite curious about what u said about "the way a diesel should be driven".

I'm kinda newbie on this issue...

What's the real difference between the way a diesel and a petrol should be driven?

My 08KK has done 107K and it usually does 12L/100km in city and can do 8.5L/100km on freeway. (with no aftermarket stuff except the roof rack and a set of 90% worn-out tyres)

I hardly do 110kph cuz I found the engine would at 2k rpm at that speed,

and the most economy speed for my car is 80kph at 1300-1500 rpm.

[CRDSTU]

It could very well be that your not driving it the way a diesel should be driven, for petrol driving habits will kill fuel economy in a CRD. The biggest problem for drivers with a petrol engine history is over reving a diesel, and not knowing where the torque is and how to use it. My KJ CRD with 70,000kms can easily get 8s and 9s on the highway with a full camping load and some serious mods: 3" lift, 255/70 tyres on 16x8 wheels, TJM bar, snorkel etc. Of course I run the GDE ECO tune and the Transmission tune, but the best investment is really an exhaust gas temperature gauge (EGT). If you have an EGT you can always see how hard the engine is working and how much fuel is going into producing power. If you drive to minimise your EGT you will maximise fuel economy (ECO tune or otherwise its all the same).

That is 100% correct and spot on Glen, well informed.

[single_single]

"The biggest problem for drivers with a petrol engine history is over reving a diesel, and not knowing where the torque is and how to use it."


Could anyone make this point more detailed?

Where's the torque and how to use it?

I'm really afraid of damaging my engine by driving it in a wrong way...

ZHENG

[Vards]

"The biggest problem for drivers with a petrol engine history is over reving a diesel, and not knowing where the torque is and how to use it."


Could anyone make this point more detailed?

Where's the torque and how to use it?

I'm really afraid of damaging my engine by driving it in a wrong way...

ZHENG

I think this is what he means: referring to the low end(rpm) torque in contrast to the higher rpm of a petrol. The CRD is responsive earlier so over reving would use more petrol than necessary. An auto is abit harder to control but I've noticed if you back off the accelerator and allow the car to change up gear and lightly accelerate the CRD will be responsive at the low revs unlike the petrol auto's that will go nowhere unless it gears down. I still think the stock CRD ratio's are poo and am looking forward to the GDE eco tune feedback from Stu for the 2011 CRD. I want one for Xmas!

[single_single]

I think this is what he means: referring to the low end(rpm) torque in contrast to the higher rpm of a petrol. The CRD is responsive earlier so over reving would use more petrol than necessary. An auto is abit harder to control but I've noticed if you back off the accelerator and allow the car to change up gear and lightly accelerate the CRD will be responsive at the low revs unlike the petrol auto's that will go nowhere unless it gears down. I still think the stock CRD ratio's are poo and am looking forward to the GDE eco tune feedback from Stu for the 2011 CRD. I want one for Xmas!


Thanks, Vards.

Um... I got a auto diesel, and I find it having difficulty in accelerating from 0 to 60 kph.

The car will stay in the 1st gear till 20kph and jump into the 2nd gear, at around 2k rpm.

And it will take a huge amount of effort for it to accelerate to 60 kph.

Sometimes it won't get into the 3rd gear and stay at 2.5k rpm till the car reaches around 60kph.

Even if I release the gas a little won't make it gear up during that period. Really annoying...

I usually have to keep on the gas at 2k-2.5k rpm to force it to accelerate and I can see the exhaust coming out in the mirror due to the inefficient burning of gas.

But it will drive all fine after 60kph, stay at 1.5k rpm at 60-80kph with cruise control on.

So... what's the problem? Is that me or the car?

[WHHEMI]

Sounds like it might be a problem with the auto or possibly engine, very hard to say without driving it but you probably should gt it checked out.

[Vards]

Of course I run the GDE ECO tune and the Transmission tune, but the best investment is really an exhaust gas temperature gauge (EGT). If you have an EGT you can always see how hard the engine is working and how much fuel is going into producing power. If you drive to minimise your EGT you will maximise fuel economy (ECO tune or otherwise its all the same).
Got a recommendation for EGT? did you self install and did you find one with a classy LCD display? Guaranteed i'm looking for one of these when I grab a GDE ECO tune.

[CRDSTU]

Thanks, Vards.

Um... I got a auto diesel, and I find it having difficulty in accelerating from 0 to 60 kph.

The car will stay in the 1st gear till 20kph and jump into the 2nd gear, at around 2k rpm.

And it will take a huge amount of effort for it to accelerate to 60 kph.

Sometimes it won't get into the 3rd gear and stay at 2.5k rpm till the car reaches around 60kph.

Even if I release the gas a little won't make it gear up during that period. Really annoying...

I usually have to keep on the gas at 2k-2.5k rpm to force it to accelerate and I can see the exhaust coming out in the mirror due to the inefficient burning of gas.

But it will drive all fine after 60kph, stay at 1.5k rpm at 60-80kph with cruise control on.

So... what's the problem? Is that me or the car?

Sounds like a DPF Filter starting to cycle in and burn, but that's just a theory.

You need to get the dealership to put Starscan on it to see if its thrown any hard codes.

[CRDSTU]

I am looking forward to the GDE eco tune feedback from Stu for the 2011 CRD. I want one for Xmas!

Havent done one yet! I think everyone's too scared to play with they're ECU in warranty!

Id like to try the new Cheetah engine out with a tune on board.....should be pretty wild

[single_single]

Havent done one yet! I think everyone's too scared to play with they're ECU in warranty!

Id like to try the new Cheetah engine out with a tune on board.....should be pretty wild



Thanks Stu and greenjk, doesn't sound good for my car>.<...

Stu, I don't really understand what u said about "DPF Filter starting to cycle in and burn".

Can you rephrase it for me?

I drove my car in Epping today. And there're enough hills there so I could test my car's hill climbing ability.

The result is that if the car start climbing a hill after a red light, it would take the engine ran to 2.5k rpm to jump into 2nd gear(20kph), and remain at around 2k-2.5k rpm at 40kph, and won't gear up anyhow.

I sent my car to Suttons City in Rosebery weeks ago, did a service and diagnose test.
They claimed that my car had some wrong with the "camshaft" and "crkshaft".
They then changed them along with their sensors and a fuel filter, and reprogrammed the computer, charged me $1,300.

Ur...really sucks...

I bought it second hand, and the former user did 100k in 2 years.

Maybe I should change some main parts of this car?

Cuz it's no longer in the warranty anyway...

[Vards]

Havent done one yet! I think everyone's too scared to play with they're ECU in warranty!

Id like to try the new Cheetah engine out with a tune on board.....should be pretty wild

That's a shame. As soon as I find a trusted chip/module for this engine Santa's buying it! Cheers for the update Stu.

Vards