Front Axle Shaft Failure and how to ELIMINATE it???

[Slider]

Has anybody ever used these or have any idea on their viability.
Maybe a cheap fix-it till I can afford chromo's or better. :D
:rolleyes: Looks like you don't need any mad welding skills to install either

From Iron Rock Off Road
http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merchant2/IMG_59431.jpg
http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merchant2/IMG_9579.JPG

In Stock - NEW LOW PRICE!!! Was $49.99, now $29.99

Front Axle Shaft Failure and how to ELIMINATE it:
The Problem...Four steps to axle shaft failure when equipped with the 5-760X u-joint:
1. The axleshaft is overloaded with 33" or larger tires and lockers.
2. The "ears" on the axle shaft flex creating an obround (oval) shape around the u-joint cap.
3. The u-joint cap breaks away at the retaining clip, causing the clip to fall off.
4. The u-joint cap works its way out of the axle shaft causing catastrophic axle shaft failure.
The Solution... Exclusively from Iron Rock Off Road...The Almost Alloy:
We Provide you with a plate to weld in over the top of each u-joint cap. This plate eliminates flex in the axle shaft "ears" around the u-joint cap. This plate positively retains the u-joint cap, meaning failure is not an option. This kit will make your axle shafts stronger than Spicer 297X and 760X u-joints. It is still possible to see an axle shaft failure, but ONLY after u-joint failure. We have had great results using this kit on our shop XJ with very heavy 35 x 13.5 Krawlers and a fairly aggressive driving style. We use OEM Dana axle shafts, Spicer 760X u-joints, and our Almost Alloy Kit and we have not been able to break an axle shaft or u-joint yet! The unbelievably low price: $29.99 gets you the full 8 piece kit to upgrade both front axle shafts.

Link to Website: http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=IROR&Product_Code=IR-S_AAK

[MR EXTREME JEEP]

What do you reckon welding on the ears is gonna do to there strength? How many have you gone through. It is litterally a band aid fix. Looks like a bandaid too. Stay away.

[mika]

what do you do come time to replace uni's, grind off and re-weld?

[Gildo]

So how do you change a uni if/when it wears out?
What stops the heat of the weld weakening the casting of the U-Joint?
If the uni dosent let go you are more likely to bust up more important, expensive and diffuclt to replace stuff than a uni.
You wont be eliminating SHAFT failure you will almost be guaranteeing it.

Seems like a real rednek fix to me.
Can you hear the banjos in the background?

[MR EXTREME JEEP]

Actually you may as well just weld the uni caps in and save $29.99.:roll:

[mika]

or get some scrap metal and weld it on to make it beefier

[Jimmyb]

I used to just mig tag the ears when the uni cups when I used to compete in the XJ. Worked well, but when they did let go they make a mess.

[Slider]

Thanks guys I was thinking the claims seemed to be pretty wild and figured there would have to be a reason not to do this.
Looks like keep saving and do the job right.

[cloughcarib]

Or just smash on the uni with a large sledge before every trip. It would make the caps as inaccessable and weaken the yokes almost as much.

[murray]

you got to be joking dont do it
you will have destroyed the heat treating and tesile strength of the axle

[turbomart]

Actually welding on yokes wont hurt em, thats how they make driveshafts after all.
Yeah ,its a bit ghetto fab but it probably works, a lot of guys in the states use em .
Its kinda like the old CIG lokka , not as pretty as a spool but gets the job done.
Still bigger joints would be the go if you can fit em, probably means bigger axle tho.

[Slider]

So we have 2 with ghetto fix, semi-works with serious consequences and 7 with for the love of God don't do it. Hmmmmm what to do?? Doh!!

[murray]

Actually welding on yokes wont hurt em, thats how they make driveshafts after all.
Yeah ,its a bit ghetto fab but it probably works, a lot of guys in the states use em .
Its kinda like the old CIG lokka , not as pretty as a spool but gets the job done.
Still bigger joints would be the go if you can fit em, probably means bigger axle tho.
sorry yuo are wrong
when a drive shaft is made its welded around a circumfrenceiall
area not at a stress point

[maddog]

Yeah I wouldn't be doing that... Just don't be a throttle jockey and you really shouldn't break D30 axles that often.

[ian]

just put one spot weld on.. will do the same thing... Thats what i did to mine. most fail because the stock axle does not take a full serclip, once the serclip comes loose the cap will pop out..

[MCJK]

just put one spot weld on.. will do the same thing... Thats what i did to mine. most fail because the stock axle does not take a full serclip, once the serclip comes loose the cap will pop out..

ian is on the money here, I recently blew a Uni which destroyed the axle and twisted the spline short of the carrier, axle was push into the spider gear and took alot of getting out!

Was obvious the cap pushed out due to the semi-circlip, recently installed Superior Evo cromo axles, completely different kettle of fish, took some pushing the uni's in, they also take a Full circlip.

Issue now being is, the fuse is more than likely the little d30's pinion and crownwheel, The reason the Yanks reinforce the uni's so much is ratios for them are cheaper than new cromo axles ;)

[turbomart]

just put one spot weld on.. will do the same thing... Thats what i did to mine. most fail because the stock axle does not take a full serclip, once the serclip comes loose the cap will pop out..

So it looks like there is at least some truth to their claim ,hey.
I suspect this 'kit' has been born out off lots off trial & error testing.
But a few spots off weld would probably be nearly as good, or just some scraps of steel.

[wee doggie]

My 2 cents worth.

Although not the best from an appearance point of veiw, I think these are worth considering.

Original equipment TJ/XJ unis are non greasable and I believe this is why they fail regularly. So put in greasable unis before the OE ones fail and then weld on the plates. New greasable unis will last ages, if you keep the grease up to them. Add some free wheeling hubs, like real four wheel drives have and they'll probably outlast the axles.

As for welding on the axle, these guys have proven it works, and you can be sure if a uni fails, and you didn't have the plate, it wrecks the axle anyway so what's to lose.

TJs and XJs use dana 44 size unis, they aren't the fuse in a dana 30, they might fail regularly from lack of lubrication, but the fuse arguement doesn't stand up.

Aftermarket axles although stronger, don't use bigger unis, they only allow the use of full circlips, an expensive way to stop your uni coming lose. Your expensive axles make your crown wheel and pinion your fuse anyway.

Still not saying I'd use them but most of the arguement against using them so far I think is unfounded. I think they should be a bit longer to give more overlap towards the axle ends so your welding a beefier area as well. Don't think they would work on older Jeeps either, due to clearence issues inside the knuckle.