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View Full Version : Need to source special tool VM.1003 Janek 09-03-2010, 07:15 PM it's a gear alignment tool to enable me to remove the injection pump more easily (and without having to realign EVERYTHING) So if anyone has one/access to one/knows where to get one, it would be much appreciated OR if wants to supply AND help, it would be great! ;) Adrian D 11-03-2010, 08:41 PM Have you tried giving VM Specialists in UK a call ? How does the tool look ? Maybe with some creative thinking you can diy one... Deezelweazel 11-03-2010, 10:25 PM It is a small special gear puller as you can see in the added picture. In my opinion it is easier to take off the front main cover and to replace the front main seal and to have a look at the timing marks at the same time. You have to re-adjust the timing with the Timing adapter VM1011 and the Dial indicator gauge VM1013 in the 10mm opening in the rear of the pump anyway. Why did you take the pump out? Do you already have the above mentioned tools (VM1011,VM1013)? They are absolute necessary! But they don't have to be from VM they are universal fit for Bosch VP36. Sorry for the blurry pic- I just scanned the tools... Janek 13-03-2010, 09:16 PM i need to take the pump out because it died- the shaft that the fuel cutoff solenoid lives on snapped, defaulting to the off position. i have arranged a new IP, but need the tools to remove the old one and install the new one. I am thinking i'll actually take it to a jeep dealership in Cessnock and paying for them to do the actual replace/retime only, and me to reassemble the rest. Janek 13-03-2010, 09:18 PM Any ideas on the cost of the tool? and is it a simple enough job to do myself, or better off getting a dealership doing. Gildo 13-03-2010, 10:04 PM Or just give up on that dirty old diesel and get a 4.0....... junglejuice 14-03-2010, 04:12 AM i need to take the pump out because it died- the shaft that the fuel cutoff solenoid lives on snapped, defaulting to the off position. i have arranged a new IP, but need the tools to remove the old one and install the new one. I am thinking i'll actually take it to a jeep dealership in Cessnock and paying for them to do the actual replace/retime only, and me to reassemble the rest. Cessnock eh, when I lived there there was no Jeep dealership.... Janek 14-03-2010, 07:17 PM pfft, unleaded is for suckers. diesels go harder anyway! There is no jeep dealership as such, but the toyota dealership does teh chrysler/jeep /dodge stuff Deezelweazel 14-03-2010, 09:22 PM It's definetly not an easy task to replace and adjust the IP. You have to be very careful and accurate. There is an adjustment on the high side and on the low side. I'm not telling you, you can't do it by yourself -but it takes some skills. Have you done that before? If not, you may better stay back. A false adjustment of 0.1 mm and your engine won't run or like a bag of nuts. Adjustment is 0.6mm at TDC. no +/-tolerance! Maybe you can tell what you have done so far and I tell you how to get it back in working order. Pics? You have to remove the fuel filter, the fuel lines and the vaccum line to gain access to the fuel shut off. and your done. Doing that is much easier than changing pumps... The fuel shut off is located below the vaccum and the fuel input line. Both lines are running parallel.(behind the alternator) if you remove them make sure everything is extremly clean. Janek 15-03-2010, 12:37 AM it's the whole shaft inside the fuel pump, not just the shutoff needle. as i can tell, the shaft actually runs the entire length of the pump. inside there is a larger diameter bit of it that's snapped from both ends. it's the bit that is actually controlled by the solenoid. quite interesting to see how it all works actually it looks like this from the inside LONG SPRING -------(snapped)-II-(snapped)-- LONG SPRING It's the best i can do at the moment, but if youve ever looked inside one of the pumps, youll understand. it's under the whole internal electronic module, and is not the plunger. i'll take some photos when i get back to town tomorrow. i have never done an IP replacement before, but time is something i have plenty of, it's just getting the proper tools to do the job right that is the issue Deezelweazel 15-03-2010, 01:13 AM Ok, got it. Its not easy to follow your description because there are so many spring loaded bolts in the VP36- but I guess I know what you mean. What's your mileage? Did you use some strange fuel? It's a very uncommon failure. If you need the proper manual for that procedure, just let me know. The tools for the timing are universal fit. Maybe you can borrow them from a shop-because they are expensive, if you don't work constantly on Diesels. They fit on any Bosch VP pump. You will definetly need time for that adjustment. Wrong adjustment can lead to wrong injection timing with high EGT's. The injection timing is self adjusting. But the basic adjustment has to be done manual. Janek 15-03-2010, 07:37 AM no idea the cause of the failure, i'm putting it down to a freak occurrence. Car has 110,000 miles (180,000km) only, so it's a baby! Is the gear puller also a universal bosch fit? Hopefully i'll have some photos by the end of today. If nothing else, it would be a good experience to do Deezelweazel 15-03-2010, 09:58 PM I'm sorry to say that, but the gear puller is a special VM part. The Smiths 16-03-2010, 08:49 AM The gear can be knocked off the shaft without the tool Janek 17-03-2010, 08:41 PM ive figured that out, thanks! The final question i have is why does the timing matter? The shaft on the pump is keyed, so will only install in one position. Why cant i just do a straight swap out? the bottom bolt that holds the IP on was a bastard to get off, but is done with the help of a chopped in half ring spanner. i'm thinking i'll just install the new one, and if need be, take it to maitland diesel (my nearest detroit/mtu diesel dealer) Can anyone see any serious problems doing this? Deezelweazel 17-03-2010, 09:34 PM Make sure the shim between the gear does not fall down in the engine main cover. It will bust your gears. The engine is locked with the puller also to ensure it does not move in TDC. The IP is mounted with three bolts. Movement of this mounting is enough to disalign the IP. Thats where the dial comes in. Adjustment is so tricky, that there is a alignment difference between used and new gears. Janek 18-03-2010, 10:49 AM where is this shim and what does it look like? Deezelweazel 18-03-2010, 09:54 PM getting tired... the black marked passage ISOHunter 21-04-2010, 11:34 PM I take it noone found where to buy this tool from? I am looking for a VM 1003 and a VM 1043 to do my injection pump. Can't find one anywhere for love nor money ;) Janek 24-04-2010, 11:07 AM yeah, i had no luck at all, but managed to do it all without special tools. just patience and due care. the nut at the front of the ip is an 18mm one, and the ip is secured to its mounts with 3 1/2" (13mm) nuts and washers. the whole thing shaft links onto a gear which is in the front cover assembly. be careful not to remove it or rotate it out of alignment when you are removing the ip, can be a little tricky, but if i can do it, anyone can. Obviously before removing ANYTHING, WASH with degreaser THOROUGHLY! and preferrably pressure clean off, then blast with compressed air, and dry. remove the IP wiring, then the injector lines (i did the IP end first to prevent contamination of the end of the IP (not like it mattered, the ip was dead anyway!) and then the injector ends- 17mm nuts both ends) wrap the threaded bit of the injectors with glad wrap, covering the hole and zip tie in place, this means you can be a little less clean/take longer without fear. That's all i can offer you at the moment, it's back together and installed, but i have to reassemble my cooling system and get new low pressure return lines before i can test properly, but it does start after some decent cranking. wghere are you? send me a PM and i may be able to help u out. Janek vBulletin® v3.8.7, Copyright ©2000-2013, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
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