I dont think it is disabled electronically, its just disabled mechanically because the locker is on therefore there is no wheel speed difference left to right. Therefore if it is still ON, the Computer could still be reducing Power when you need it most.
If thats the case then it does explain why when i have lockers on (i have Sport not Rubi) it appears to rob me of power at times. Its hard to know if its the engine or the Dam Fricken Big-brother Computer cutting in!


I am definitely doing this mod, i need total control over what my car is doing!

I will try the same off road conditions with it On and Off and see if i notice a difference in power?

Fair enough they can use this safety guff on road, but off road the ESP button needs to turn it off completely, no partial off, just straight out off!

I also just realised the ERM monitors steering wheel position, so maybe throttle is reduced when at full lock causing the inability to do circle work :/

I clearly need more experimentation on the beach as my experience last lime seemed to point to Traction Control (throttle limiting) occuring in all high range modes even Partial and Full Off modes. Perhaps it was the brakes reducing my throttle response too.

I don't want the Hokey pokey steering wheel wriggle fix as it looks like it disables ERM and Traction control that is handy for safety onroad and possibly some 4H situations and it would be a pain to have to do the steering wheel wriggle at the start and end of every offroad trip.

I think I'll be doing this purple wire switch mod after the next service :)

Perhaps I'll just throw the whole computer eventually and replace it with a Mitsubishi FX3U PLC and program it to do what I want, the way I want, when I want. And hook it up to a widescreen HMI touchscreen LCD to replace the instrument cluster completely :) <Electrical Geek Mode Off>

FFS Brisnut, just fit the effing switch!!! If your not happy with the mod, remove it....( Once fitted I reckon you'll love it );)

Just to share. I got JUN-08 build. It took me about 25 attempts to get ESP disabled with that Hokey Pokey procedure. It's so bloody tricky. 07 and early 08 builds need to re-flash the ECU.
Now I have only BAS, ABS and EBLD active in 2H and 4H; and ABS and EBLD in 2L. Also deactivated much of EBLD magic on rear by putting a LSD carrier case. EBLD is still active on front though.
EBLD isn't that bad, but has 2 major disadvantages IMHO: 1) it kicks in with a delay, a wheel must spin first; 2) it wastes some axle torque that's killed by applying brakes to the spinning wheel; so you need to rev up to have full effect of EBLD.

yep, euge, it's exactly why the whole lot has to go when in soft stuff. you don't want the power loss. power loss in heavy sand means getting bogged.

hey i just tried the Hokey Pokey procedure and it worked, FIRST TIME!
Dont know what i was doing wrong before? unless they have programmed it that you must do it a few times before it starts actually working.

Im doing the Switch tomorrow cos i believe thats a much better idea, apart from the fact it turns everything off your also more inclined to turn it back on once you hit the blacktop because its as simple as turning your ignition off n on.

Speaking of ignitions off and on, can anyone get that procedure where you turn your ignition on and off 3 times to read fault codes in you dash?

Hope this helps I have also list of codes and what they relate to if required.

Jeep JK Wrangler Diagnostic Trouble Codes - DTC
How to Check Them & What They Mean
JK Write-Ups, Troubleshooting
Thanks to the advent of technology, just about every single part on your new Jeep JK Wrangler is wired up to a computer. And, if anything goes wrong with any one of these parts, your Jeep’s computer will make a note of it and/or even let you know about it by illuminating a Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL for short or ‘check engine’ light) or icons on your dash. Unfortunately, the MIL or other icons won’t tell you a whole lot other than the fact that your Jeep is having some kind of a problem and unless you take your Jeep into the dealership or have a OBDII reader handy, you’re pretty much out of luck, right? Wrong. As luck would have it, the JK Wrangler’s come with a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) reader built right into the dash and you can access them by following the 3 simple steps below. Once you have the DTC code(s) in hand, check it/them against the list below and you will be able to find out exactly what problems your Jeep is having.
How to Read a DTC
________________________________________
A DTC or Diagnostic Trouble Code is made up of 5 digits the first of which is one of the following letters:
B - Body
C - Chasis
P - Power Train
U - Network
The 2nd digit indicates:
0 - SAE
1 - MFG
The 3rd digit indicates:
1 - Fuel & Air Metering
2 - Fuel & Air Metering
(Injector Circuit)
3 - Injection Systems or Misfire
4 - Auxillary Emissions Control
5 - Vehicle Speed Control
& Idle Control System
6 - Computer Output Circuit
7 - Transmission
8 - Transmission
The last 2 digits indicate:
Fault (00-99)

Instructions
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1. To check your Jeep JK Wrangler’s DTC codes, simply insert your key into the ignition, turn it to the ‘ON’ position but do not start the engine. Then, push the key into the ignition cylinder and while holding it in, turn it to the ‘OFF’ position and then back to the ‘ON’ position (3) times straight making sure to end with it in the ‘ON’ position. It is important to keep pushing in on the key to prevent it from catching at the different positions along the way.
2. If you do step #1 correctly, all your dash lights will illuminate and your odometer will show up as a series of (6) dashes as shown in the pic to the left. If your Jeep JK Wrangler has any logged in any DTC’s, they will be displayed soon after the dashes appear. Write down the DTC(s) and check it/them against the list below to find out what they mean.
3. If your Jeep JK Wrangler has not logged in any DTC’s, the dashes on your odometer will be followed by the message ‘-done-’. Turn your key to the ‘OFF’ position and you will in fact be done.