Just ordered mine from DBOR too!

Has anyone loctaed a manual on how to do this? i have found a few write ups, but they are for the Jeep Liberty (KJ Cherokee) is the timing assembly the same as the JK 2.8 CRD?

Hi all,
I recently did the timing belt change and just thought I’d post my observations for others.
Firstly, this is a fairly simple and straight forward job and is really no different from any other brand vehicle timing belt change – except for the fact that the cam has no timing mark. This is fixed in about 20 seconds with a paint pen. The special “cam tool” and crank pin are not required and the use of which, combined with no cam marks, are probably just to lock you into dealer servicing. You can use a ½’’ socket extension to lock the crank if you like by removing the plug on the passenger side under the intake manifold. A 4’’ extension slides in nicely. But again, if I did it again I wouldn’t even bother with this.
I got my Timing Belt kit and Water pump from JNL Engineering in the UK for about $210AUD and $177AUD, respectively. I actually purchased all serpentine pulleys, tensioner and belts as well because I had a gnarly squeak, total cost was around $950AUD including postage and insurance. Took about 2 weeks. My JK is only for touring/off road driving (i.e. not my daily drive) so for me, $950 is cheap insurance for the next 100k km of remote, harsh operating conditions.
It is up to you whether or not you change your serpentine belt/pulleys/tensioner as I did, these are not critical - but take it from somebody who DESTROYED an engine in his last truck by NOT CHANGING THE TIMING BELT TENSIONER when he changed the belt – it would be very foolish not to! This goes for the water pump as well – it’s 100k to your next TB change and a seizure on any one of these bearing is very likely in that time. For and extra couple of hundred buck why risk it - plus you're already saving a packet doing the job yourself!
In all, and with the serpentine belt/pulley / tensioner replacement, it took me about 7 hours.
The vehicle has done 92k km, bit premature I know, but I was very worried the squeak from the front end was the TB tensioner. When removed and inspected, the condition of the timing belt and tensioner were fair at best, would have made the 100k km mark, but I would definitely not risk more than around 110k 120k. Suggestions that the belt and tensioner will last 160k or 200k or 10 years is crazy – not a snow balls chance in hell I’d risk it!
I’ll write and post up a procedure if I get time.

Jnl engineering.
Can they source alot of the vm motori parts?

Thanks for the info. Need to get mine done soon, at 115k. Writeup would be great

Sent from my HTC_0P6B using Aussie Jeep Offroad mobile app

OK, here are the steps to the procedure:

1. Remove air filter box – disconnect hose clamps and sensor, pull straight up on the box – it’ll pop right out.
2. Remove wiper fluid bottle – one screw, lift straight up. That cylindrical black thing on the bottom – pull it upwards and off the barb on the bottle.
3. Remove mechanical fan – jam a big screw driver sideways through the holes in the fan pulley and turn the pulley until the screw driver locks against the aircon bracket. From beneath, use a big shifter to undo the fan spigot – it’s a right-hand thread. Withdraw from bottom.
4. Remove shroud - 2 bolts on each side. Radiator hose connected to bottom via crappy plastic clips. 4 more crappy clips holding should a bottom – I find side cutters leaver these out well.
5. Take photos of serpentine belt and pulleys – you’ll be needing these for reassembly.
6. Remove serpentine belt and pulleys – crank the tensioner backwards (loosen tension) and insert a pin into the locking hole on the bottom when they line up(about 3mm in dia). Remove belt. Mark and remove the 2 serpentine pulleys (they are different and need to go back as they were). These have LEFT HAND threads. Remove engine lift bracket and fan pulley assy.
7. Match-mark and remove crank pulley – x4 bolts, tap off gently with soft mallet.
8. Remove timing cover - upper first, then lower.
9. Drain coolant now if you are replacing the water pump – Drain nipple located on bottom driver side of radiator. Open the coolant cap to allow air in.
10. Rotate crank to TDC timing marks line up (well, I think it is actually 90deg ATDC but this is irrelevant for us in this procedure) – the mark on the engine is at 3 o’clock. Check to see that the injection pump marks are lined up – mark on engine located at about 5 o’clock. If it’s not lined up, rotate the crank two full cycles (always rotate an engine in the direction the engine operates). 2 turns of the crank rotates the injector pump 2/3 turns, so you may need to do 4 revs of the crank to line up the injection pump marks.

Note: Strictly speaking, lining up the injection pump like this is not necessary, but I like to know that things have gone back exactly how they came apart! It also means you are not rotating any pulley when the TB is off). The marks on the crank must be perfectly matched. Injection pump maybe a fraction of a tooth off, that’s ok, crank is what’s important. Infact personal, I can’t understand why the injection pump requires timing at all… but that’s a discussion for another day.

11. Mark the cam pulley at 12 o’clock straight through to the center bolt, place a match mark on the timing cover. Make sure the match marks are narrow, less than 3mm wide.
12. Mark the old belt and cam pulley with a dot on the tooth of the belt and a dot on the trough on the pulley at 9 o’clock and 3 o’clock. Do the same with the crank at 11 o’clock or just where the tooth is about to mesh. Repeat this on the HP pump – just where the tooth is lifting out of the sprocket. These marks will allow you to count the teeth on the belt between the cam pulley and crank on one side, and the cam pulley and HP fuel pump on the other. This will ensure that everything is identical when it goes back together.
13. Loosen the tensioner and remove the belt. The cam should just sit there but if at any point it clicks to onside, just get a good grip and move it back to center. Don’t do anything silly like rotate it a full turn etc!
14. Remove inner timing cover.
15. Change the Water Pump – make sure you clean the matting surface on the engine.
16. Install inner timing cover.
17. Install the new tensioner, leave finger tight.
18. Install the belt – crank first, then injector pump, wp, cam and finally tensioner - use an allan key in the tensioner and turn clockwise to relieve tension to slip it on.
19. Check all your timing/match marks. Count the teeth between cam 9 o’clock position mark and crank 11 o’clock position mark you made earlier. Reference this to the corresponding marks on the old belt. Do the same with the cam 3 o’clock mark and the mark on the injection pump pulley.
20. You need to be 100% confident you have the timing right to move on. Near enough is not good enough, it has to be exact! Being out is usually pretty obvious, as it will be by a full tooth etc.
21. When you are happy, tension the tensioner by cranking it counterclockwise until the needle moves into the center of the small ‘U’ shaped cutaway on the tensioners bottom side. A mirror is handy for this. When centered, tighten the bolt to lock. It may take a few goes to get this right.
22. Rotate the engine a couple of revs and repeat step 19 above to check that everything still lines up and that the tensioner is still in the ‘U’. If either is off, redo!
23. When happy, re-assemble the car in the reverse order to dis-assembly.

Bolt Torques
Serpentine belt pulley Bolts – 45Nm
Water Pump Bolts – 32Nm
Inner timing cover bolts – 11Nm
Timing Belt Tensioner - 28Nm

...and yes, JNL Engineering are the VM Motori distributors in the UK. If I need anything more for this engine (and I'm sure I will at some stage) they will be my first point of contact.

I bought my kit for under $250 from Lithuania on eBay! I have had it kicking around in the back of my Jeep and was deciding whether to get someone to do it or do it myself as I changed two timing belts before with no trouble on small cars; with the info I have on this thread I am going to throw away my service warranty and do the timing kit and all the servicing myself from now on. Thank you guys for all the info and not making it sound scary at all!

Thanks Hayesio, I followed your great instructions and changed the belt, pump and tensioner in under five hours. I struggled a bit with the mechanical fan, that had to come out through the top with the shroud as there was no way I could get it out through the bottom. I left off the engine lift bracket to make the fan install easier but it was a pain getting it back on too... Does anyone have an easier way of doing it?

My replacement pump has a cast metal impeller and I just hope it lasts as long as the genuine VM pump which I must say still looked brand new with its plastic impeller in perfect shape. I guess I'll find out in five years time!

Hayesio. Thanks for the write up. I could not have done it without it.

You definitely have to mark the old timing belt at 3 spots. Crank, pump and cam gear. Then match up marks with new belt.

But. You do need something to hold the cam gear from turning. It takes a bit of force to stretch the belt into place.

http://www.ausjeepoffroad.com/forum/...1&d=1439172776

Hello from the other side of the Globe!

I am Jeep fellow from Finland, I have an 2008 JK Rubicon, which was due to timing belt change.

I did DIY job with fellow car mechanic (thank´s for the great write ups from you!) but there was something odd we found...

I have this workshop manual CD and the instructions recommend the timing belt tensioner bolt to be torqued at 45nm, I started to tighten the bolt, but the torque seemed too high, then I found this post and other information that suggests that torque should be either 20nm or 28nm.. I left the bolt at 25 nm for now until I have time to continue...

Does anyone have knowledge about the right torque specific or information why the workshop manual is quoting so high torque value??

Thanks!

Mine says 45Nm too.

http://www.ausjeepoffroad.com/forum/...ec773e12ee.png

Where is that from? Is it an accessible manual?

Also interested. Is there a downloadable manual for the JK CRD? I'm willing to pay for it but I just can't find anything.

Here's the link to bookmark. It's web based unless you can figure out how to download it.

https://s3.amazonaws.com/jeepwranglerjk2010/index.html

Ah sweet. Thanks for that!!

Hi and thanks! I think we have the same edition, problem is that 45Nm is loads of torque for M8 bolt..According this it should be at least highest 12,9 strength bolt, which I doubt it is not.

http://electronicfilters.tpub.com/TM...37-13P_105.htm

According to (Chrysler Voyager 2,8 CRD manual) this:

http://www.ausjeepoffroad.com/forum/...2846a81d5a.jpg

http://replace-timing-belt.com/how-t...-2-8-crd-2008/

Torque should be 28Nm.

And finally this:

http://project-jk.com/jeep-jk-write-...tings#accdrive

It should be 20Nm.

So what to believe?

If you blokes Google any totally independent bolt torque chart it will tell you.
M8 std thread, 12.9 = 45Nm or 33 ft/lb.
When in doubt I always refer to these, at least for non specialist type bolts.
Make sure it is the correct specified 12.9 bolt though. I'd be more concerned about that actually.

I just opened the covers again, and the bolt is 10.9 so manual is definitely wrong, because maximum torque for 10.9 is 40Nm...I put it around 28Nm and that seemed fine...

Yep, well checked.:)

Replaced my timing belt a few weeks ago on my 2008 JK 2.8 CRD, after collecting informations from this topic as well. So thanks for all write-ups. There is a video in the link below if somebody interested:
https://youtu.be/0WunUSlU33Y

The diagrams here are of much interest to me.
The KJ CRD (ENR) that has the engine that predates the JK has problems with dropping valves. One suggestion that I had as to the cause was the timing belt configuration. Seeing the configuration on this engine, I assume is the ENS, the upgraded engine, it is clear changes were made to the belt configuration. I have not heard of valve problems so much with the ENS engine & now it is clear that the belt is probably the issue.
Probably all that can be done to improve things with a KJ CRD (ENR) would be to check the belt tension after it has had time to bed in.

Hey guys curious as to what the 5th pulley is?

When doing this I would plan to do this 5th pulley, is it just a normal idler/tensioner pulley??

when looking on ebay I see 2 different types
Type 1.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Dayco-Id...24MJ:rk:3:pf:0

Type 2.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Dayco-Id...24M1:rk:4:pf:0

Which would be the correct one?