and overpriced shit with a crap spot beam that is only useful for showing your mates how far down the road they shine... or outback hwy driving..

offroad lighting needs to be nicely spread all over.. not 2 dots on the horizon ;)

and if you like the look, the Aurora ones are cheaper and actually a better light.. brighter with a better pattern

Yeah, I've got a pair of VisionX LED Light Cannons (25W) that handle the medium/longer range...at least as long as I need....and I use a pair of Aurora 40W floods from Uneek for the closer in track/dirt road use...awesome flood of light.
I don't have a need for really long range lights.....I'm never driving "that" fast, lol.

Geez...just found a price on those ARB Intensity lights....$745 each.
$1500 for a pair........I could do a LOT of light with a lightbar for a lot less than that.

Yep, very quickly
 

I have a deluxe ARB bar fitted to mine with a Warn XD9000 winch and it takes about 15-20 seconds to remove the grill.

Unlike a lot of other front bars the winch dropped straight in without a hassle and I didn't have to relocate the vacuum pump.:monkey:

Yes you can.


, [____],
l----L -OlllllllO-
()_) ()_)-------)_)

Looks like some can remove their grille, I personally cant. I can pull it back far enough to change the bulbs but not far enough back to actually remove it completely

I like my vision X cannons, great spots, but I have the 50" rigid for fill and the dually's for the wings


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JK Front bumper roundup
 

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14...1ae404fbfc.jpg

Not the best pic, but shows how the DBOR stubby with scorpion LED spots looks with of course a grumpy (suits me well) grill.



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Has anyone seen the Smittybuilt XRC Atlas in person?

http://www.traxindustries.com.au/tra...k-black-finish



I reckon they look pretty cool. I'd like to know about build quality, weight, dimensions etc...

I fitted one to my JKU. Pretty easy to do. Relatively light as I was able to fit it without any help. I've also put my winch in, and that was easy too.
I'm in Pt Cook if you want to have a look.

Only thing I was a bit bummed about was that one of the studs for the hoop was blank (it had no thread to hold the nut).
http://i473.photobucket.com/albums/r.../IMG_33591.jpg

Build quality is ok - I have nothing to really compare to except the old TJM bar I had on my Hilux. The Smitty bar is much lighter & looks nicer.
Had one other small issue trying to get one of bolts in, but a round file helped so I could line the hole up.
Also had relocate the vacuum pump.

Glad I didn't pay $300 or $400 to get it fitted.

Nice one.
Do you have any side on pics? How is the approach angle? Better than the stock bumper?

How the hell do you remove it in 15 - 20 seconds?
Without the use of a shotgun?
If you can remove the 6 top mounts (plastic clips or nutserts if you mod it) and pull it back far enough at the bottom in that time you are either Clark Kent, or you have invented a VELCRO ATTACHED grill, OR YOU ARE PULLIN YOUR PUD...

I'll take a coupe side on pics this evening for you.
The original plastic bumper tends stick out quite a bit. The Smitty bar not as much. I would say the approach angle is better with the Smitty bar, but haven't done any real field testing. I'll have to change that :)

Here is the before and after:
http://i473.photobucket.com/albums/r.../IMG_33391.jpg

http://i473.photobucket.com/albums/r.../IMG_33591.jpg

Thanks Diz, I like this bar, as well as their MOD one.
Is the section around the winch fairlead removable?

Yep, I think it is but will need to double check. Although it seems most guys just remove the stainless bit:

These are some images I found on the web:
http://i473.photobucket.com/albums/r...zyh/5Q_800.jpg

http://i473.photobucket.com/albums/r...zyh/yQ_800.jpg

http://i473.photobucket.com/albums/r...h/IMG_2042.jpg

http://i473.photobucket.com/albums/r...3100860211.jpg

That front section is removable.
You can run the bar without that if you choose.
It's there to make the bar more pedestrian friendly so that the roll the winch rollers are enclosed.

I actually took those plastic clips off and put 2 tek screws in each side up top so I can remove in the bush easy. Takes me about 20 seconds to remove it and it sits really firm with the two screws.

Finally got around to taking some pics:

http://i473.photobucket.com/albums/r...h/IMG_3610.jpg

http://i473.photobucket.com/albums/r...h/IMG_3611.jpg

http://i473.photobucket.com/albums/r...h/IMG_3612.jpg

http://i473.photobucket.com/albums/r...h/IMG_3614.jpg

http://i473.photobucket.com/albums/r...h/IMG_3613.jpg

NO WAY!! Tek screws? as in those philips head things with a drill point??????
You cant do that to a Jeep!!!

Lol you should see the cable ties then all over the car

http://www.ausjeepoffroad.com/forum/...f0cfa727c9.jpg
uneek is good

+1 for uneek
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y12...09541318_n.jpg

Another Uneek, with a Blackjack Welding front skid...which fits great with the Uneek bar.

http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m...ps1c6932fa.jpg

nice unit brendan ditch the tek screws!!

Lol ill take photo tomorrow. Its actually really handy

My 10A Bumper with Optional Hoop & Winch Plate Kit (to mount warn 9.5cti-s) and Mopar Skid Plate.

BEFORE (Std 10A Bar)
http://www.ausjeepoffroad.com/forum/...2&d=1419972520

AFTER (Hoop and Winch fitted)
http://www.ausjeepoffroad.com/forum/...0&d=1419941331
WINGS REMOVED
http://www.ausjeepoffroad.com/forum/...8&d=1419941331
http://www.ausjeepoffroad.com/forum/...7&d=1419941331
PROFILE
http://www.ausjeepoffroad.com/forum/...1&d=1419941331

that 10th anniversary bar look great, Mal's JK. I've been looking for a reasonably priced one of those for ages. Could you tell me where you got yours?

The search has become a bit more pressing since a Prado decided to reverse into my JK this afternoon. Fortunately I had the factory bench seat on it, but his tow hook chewed through it nicely.

got mine through JeepKonnection but DBOR have them listed and cheaper too! give Billy a ring.

Some Pics of the Mopar Skid Plate, what a hassle it was to fit that!!! firstly its for LHD, theres a cut out in the plate to allow for the LHD Drag Link, so had to cut to allow clearance for RHD, and it doesn't work with Teraflex Swaybar so a fair bit of cutting! and had to make some angle brackets to fit the rear part of the plate as the TF Bar stops you fitting these rear bolts, glad its in, but shit it was a lot of work:mad:

so if you go with the skid plate and the 10A Bar and have Stock Swaybars no problem to fit but you will have to cut the rear of it to clear the draglink.

Really liking that 10A bar setup there Mal.
Only thing I noticed because I also use the Mopar recovery hooks (although not in the nicely contrasted red in your case) is it looks like it might be hard to fit a recovery/equalizer strap with the central hoop there limiting clearance.
In saying that you can probably squeeze one in there and the central hoop might even help keep the strap in the recovery hook, might be worth giving it a test before trying to use them out on a trail :)

a strap wont fit once the Hoop goes on, you'll need a Shackle

Thanks Mal. Still quite pricey, but then again, you get a lot of functionality for the money, which is good.

Unless you have a Rubicon then they don't fit as the driver side bracket won't fit with the electric sway bar disconnect. I found out the hard way.

I've got the Blackjack skid on my 2013 Rubi. One of my first mods.
Did you specify you had a Rubicon when ordering?

Poison spyder brawler lite !


http://i.imgur.com/thWNzOt.jpg"]http...om/thWNzOt.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/g8WWFfy.jpg"]http...om/g8WWFfy.jpg

You know, I'm usually not a huge fan of that hood protector.....but with the matching grill colour on yours it suits the JK to a T. :)

I agree ...didn't look that great when I had the grill unpainted. The lines flow well with the black :)

Is this an AEV premium bar just with the crash cans removed?


http://www.ausjeepoffroad.com/forum/...8d04e3206f.jpg

Jimmy, yup it is :) although I don't know why you'd replace crash cans with hooks as they have built it recovery points as standard that are plenty strong enough.


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I'd imagine its just for the looks. Looks better without them in my opinion - albeit losing its safety rating I'd imagine.

The AEV bar has not been tested here and as such, has no "safety rating".. I think they look better with the cans removed too