Diff rebuild or Second Handy
 

So it seems my front diff is cooked, I've read a ton about rebuilding these things, it seems doable as long as I leave the shims in the right order and set pinion preload with crushing the sleeve enough. It seems the wj diff is similar to the Ford 9" and set mainly by pinion preload with the sleeve.
Rebuild kit is around the 120 mark delivered, plus I'd need an in lb torque wrench.

OR

Grab a second handy axle from a wreck, there's one with the same ratio near here and possibly another one about an hour away. So I'd have no idea on condition, could last a while or bite the big one quickly

Opinions please fellow Jeepers

If you do the work yourself, have time and inclination to gamble and get the donors for little money or free- there is a room for a second option.

Anything less - I'd go with the rebuild.

Yep it would be tough to get too cheap, most people want a fortune for things.

I would most definitely be doing the work myself as I hate paying for shit I can do, and I get to buy a few new tools. Im leaning towards the rebuild as at least then I know what's inside the thing

Sent from under my Grand Cherokee

Rebuild is the go, at least then you know everything is in good nick, you won't need to look at it again except to change the oil.

Doug.


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My thoughts too, all I need to find is an in lb torque wrench and a brass punch for the pinion bearing races and I should be good to go.
I have a couple of weeks off coming up so hopefully get it done straight away and I can get out camping and wheeling.
I've missed 2 trips due to the diff, one with mates down to the Coorong for some awesome beach driving and the Border Track last week 😓

Sent from under my Grand Cherokee

Yeah, rebuild it.

Breaking stuff at home is much better than getting stuck out on the trails. :)

Haha, that's the problem , usually even a simple repair means breaking something else 👍

Sent from under my Grand Cherokee

If you were nearby I'd loan you my torque wrench.

Bugger, just sold my compete rebuild kit to v8val.

I've got an old TJ D30 rebuild kit sitting in the shed, I'll have a look at what's missing and you can have it if you want, mainly just bearings etc.

Thanks mate, are they the same do ya reckon?
TJ is long pinion and the WJ short I think, not sure if the bearings would be the same between the normal and the Super 30

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Unless you're doing diff rebuilds for a living, it would be cheaper , less risky to get one recond from the US.

That's what I would be doing. These things are in abundance in the USA and they would even charge you much if you keep your core.

Yeah but the shipping would cost a small fortune.

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A complete diff from RockAuto for example would total up to $3300 delivered to your door, as opposed to $220 for the kit delivered.

Do I remember from earlier conversations that you've replaced the wheel bearings already? You've done the shaft already right?

Doug.

The kit from Rockauto is actually cheaper, about $120 AUD delivered to my door.
Yep did both wheel bearings, and both CV's on the front shaft that is at the moment laying on my garage floor. She drives really nice without the front shaft, so smooth and the steering is much lighter and feels smoother.

I have a good front axle from a 4.7 wg grand but I'm in vic

Hmm, open or quad?
Where in Vic? How much you thinking?


Sent from under my Grand Cherokee

It is a open diff from a Laredo V8, Depends on who much you want, do you want the drive shafts as well? Or just the housing with the centre and the front swivels?

Haha, I was just about to push buy in the rebuild kit so it would have to be a heck of a deal.
Only need axle tube with diff, don't need shaft, hubs, brakes, spindles etc.
What ratio is it? I'm assuming 3.73

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See. With 242 conversion I get to experience this on demand. No need for 4x4 on mall parking lots and dry highway runs.


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Yep for sure, I've been thinking about grabbing a 242, def worth it I reckon.
Did you swap the output shafts from the 247? How did you sort out the linkages? Was yours from an XJ?

Yup. Output shaft form 247.

There was no problem with linkage.I used the existing shifter cable. I fabricated a little brass bushing from .223 Remington case for cable connector to fit snugly on the t-case lever.

Mine was from 2003 Cherokee.

Ah cool, Lexx has one with a rebuild kit but needs a chain, another $120 or so landed at the door, or rip the one out I found at the U-pull-it for bugger all.
Might have to do this I reckon, loving driving in 2wd, it feels sooo much better.
What did you do about the shift selector indicator thingo on the console?
So I'd need to swap the 247 input shaft, and the front output shaft for my just rebuilt front driveshaft.
What about the rear shaft?

I am not ready to pull the front axle out of my spare laredo yet, too busy with other things and I don't want it stuck on blocks in the shed, so you are better off getting the necessary parts and rebuild yours.

On the second topic I purchased a while ago a 242 transfer case from a wrecked TJ and was planning to make the daughters car part time 4wd, there are heaps of videos on Utube how to's that show how to swap the input and output shafts from a donor 247 case so it can mate to the WG trans and driveshafts.
Although I doubt there will be much benefit as the WG jeep doesn't have the ability to unlock the front hubs the front axle and driveshaft is still turning even if it is not being driven.

Yep thanks mate.
I'll pull the pin on the bearing kit tonight, then onto the hunt for a decent priced inch pound torque wrench.
I've watched a few vids of the transfer case swap, seems easy enough. You wouldn't believe how much better it drives in 2wd, it's a big difference.

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That's correct. The front dif and drive shaft are turning as they are being slaved by the wheels.
However, despite that the WG feels exactly the same as it was with the front driveshaft completely removed. Much quieter and less trucky.

Do a search here. I posted tread and pictures few years ago as of how I did that.

I ordered a Selec Trac shifter from the States for $100 odd dollars delivered. How it looks and functions like this.

https://q19jda.dm2304.livefilestore....&cropmode=none

Well just bought the rebuild kit, 150 bills all up, bloody yank postage is pricey

Sent from under my Grand Cherokee

Heavy bearings, shims etc. bloody sight cheaper than local.

Hell yeah, way cheaper than anywhere local

Sent from under my Grand Cherokee

So, I went to a local tool dude looking for this very elusive inch lb torque wrench, he suggested what they used for ages which is a pound scale, hooked up an inch from the centre of the pinion, or a foot and calculate back, or thereabouts (have to do the math) and measure the rolling force, which is accurate, and a shit ton cheaper than buying one of the sensitive torque wrenches for a one time use (until the rear end needs doing too)

Well scrap that, after scouring all the different torque wrenches on Amazon, I finally found a 0-80 inch lb torque wrench that ships to Oz, 43 bucks and she should be here soon :)

Unreal, only ordered the end of last week (Friday night)and bearings waiting on my doorstep this arvo, bloody quick.

So have been reading that as long as I reuse all the shims on pinion and carrier I should be good when she all goes back together, unless changing gears, which im not, as long as I set preload correctly, which will happen when the torque wrench rocks up. Does this sound right?

Sent from under my Grand Cherokee

You are correct that if the carriers and gears have not changed then the pinion depth shims and the carrier bearing preload and backlash adjustment via the side shims should be identical to what it was prior to disassembly.

I say should because the new bearings will have some minor variation to the originals dimension just through production tolerances, but it should not be much and it should not cause any issues.

Make sure you mark the carrier bearing side shims before disassembly because they will likely to be different thickness side to side and always use some 'bearing blue' or similar colorant to check the gear teeth engagement pattern when it is reassembled as that is the only true determination of correct settings.

Thanks mate, I will mark the shims and caps for sure to ensure they go back in the right spot. This is my first time diving into a D30 so hoping all will go well and this awful noise will be stopped.
My kit didn't come with a crush sleeve, however have read today that alot of people reuse them after putting them on a piece of pipe and giving them a whack to lengthen them slightly as new ones can be a bear to get to crush again

In my experience new crush sleeves do take a significant torque load to start them into their set. I am a person who often reuses the original sleeve, I usually use some laminated shim material to increase its length about 0.015" and retorque it.

Thank-you very much, I think I'll reuse the bugger then, tap him with a hammer and back in.
I should be sorted for this job, planning to cut the bearings and races off with the Dremel, heard it's a fairly quick job, saves me going to a shop and being dicked around and ripped off by assholes trying to empty my wallet for a 10 min job and at least I can do it at home.
Will put pinion and carrier in my Engel on freeze and heat the bearings, I've heard they usually slip on fairly easily like this and may only require a light love tap to seat them.

Sent from under my Grand Cherokee

Okay, I *think* it's my turn.

Anywhere above 80kmh I get a considerable whine when I apply a little throttle. It goes quiet on coast. I figure this is probably the rear pinion bearing in the rear diff (from reading the manual). I plan to remove the front driveshaft and test to confirm it's not a front driveshaft joint.

Am I barking up the right tree?

The rear diff is the 44HD (aluminium case). Do I need a case spreader? Is there anything tricky other than clocking the backlash and bluing the mesh? I figure the money I'll save on paying a pro will buy me a dial gauge and in-lb torque wrench.

It looks like the process isn't too hard - just requires a bit of time and patience. Right?

Like everything (IMO), patience, skill and some tools.

When I replaced my front axle I took out the carrier from the donor axle without a case spreader. Had to do it so I could wash out dirt and rust in the axle tubes.

Don't discount wheel bearings, give them a wiggle to see how much play is there, they could also be the source of your noise too. Cheaper and easier to do this job first IMHO.

Have you checked to see if there is any play or slop in the pinion bearing?

Pay someone to do it, it should hopefully be done right if a quality tradesperson looks at it for you.

It's pretty ordinary weather in Brissy, so I'm planning to spend the weekend under the Jeep (and at the front fitting my new bullbar). It is one of the things to check, as well as the CV's and wheel bearings. I did post a while back in another thread about grease stains under the floor around the rear shaft CV joint. I hope it's not the problem because I suspect it will be a pain to find the part.

Interestingly, when one of my front hubs spat the bearings a few months ago, it had to get really loud before I could feel the free-play and know which one it was. Being from an engineering background, I am a bit sensitive to noises from cars that are not supposed to be there. ;)

As for getting a better job by paying, based on recent experience I am not so sure.