XJ: Fraz's Budget Build with JK Diffs
 

After getting some work done to the XJ today, I figured it was time I started documenting this build up.

A lot of the younger guys at work have started picking up old solid-axle vehicles for VERY cheap. Before I bought the XJ, there was an '88 GQ Patrol with 400K+ on the clock, an '84 60 series cruiser getting rebuilt, an '86 leaf/leaf hilux and an old MQ Shorty patrol. Everyone kept pestering me to get something oldschool that I could go to town on, but do so without breaking the bank.

After talking to a number of overseas and local distributors, I settled on an XJ Cherokee. The main reason was the 5-link front end, which offers heaps more flex from standard than any of the above vehicles. I just had to find the right one at the right price.

Anyway, a very clean '96 Sport came up on Gumtree for $1400 with auto issues. I haggled the seller down to $900 without rego, and the deal was done. Picked the car up the next night and towed it home. Put 6 months rego on it the day after that and she was good to go. Having driven it around for the past couple of weeks, there are a couple of issues I'd noticed:
-Wouldn't start when hot, and will randomly stall when changing gears after driving around town;
-Had to change gears manually, meaning a loss of 2nd gear.
These have since been rectified, which I'll cover later.

The whole point of this build is to create the most capable off-roader for under $10k. So far I've spent $2100 including rego, insurance, servicing and initial purchase, so I'm off to a fairly good start. I'll be building as much as I can myself for this (rear bar, sliders, etc.) and have a feeling I'll be calling on this forum a LOT for handy hints and tips. Pretty sure I've got the best start though, that 5-link front flexes extremely well. :cool:

Anyway, that's enough for now, I'll get started on the build :D

Alright, first issue: Inconsistent starting habits.

After testing the injectors, fuel pump and relay, dizzy and everything else I could think of, it was left down to the Crank Angle Sensor. Sure enough, it was malfunctioning. New one was ordered through work and fitted today, and has done the trick. Starts up within the first couple of cranks now. :D

Next problem: Non-auto auto.

I had to manually shift through the gears as the auto box would simply try and take off from a stand-still in 4th if left in D. This was alright for a while, but the TC wouldn't lock-up on the highway either, which was seriously killing the fuel economy. I know these things aren't great on fuel, but 15L/100km on the highway was a bit crap.

Anyway, after testing the NSS and checking all fuses and relays for the TCU, the only thing left was to pull it apart. Found a thread on here from a member with identical issues, and his fix was to replace the solenoids. Rather than just do the two shift units, I replaced all three (TCC, Shift 1, Shift 2) as I didn't want to have to pull the pan off again to replace another further down the track.

2.5hrs on the hoist, and it was all done. Had a little issue with the clearance between the pan, exhaust and crossmember, but got there in the end. Put a filter kit and new oil in at the same time as the original ones were completely cactus. The cork was hard and brittle, and the oil was dark brown. :-? New gear all fitted up with fresh new oil, and it was running like a dream. Oil level is a little above the full marker, but not enough to worry about.

I'll be doing a full service on the rest of the engine tomorrow, so will hopefully get her purring like a kitten again. 8) After that will be a full new stereo system, as I got a decent Pioneer head-unit from a few friends for my birthday. :D Just have to get the amp and speakers now.

Man you sound like someone who knows a thing or 2....Please post pics of your work, that would be great.

Cheers :) Gotta say the forum helped a lot with diagnosing the fault though, so I can't take all the credit.

Will start posting pics up once mods start happening. UHF should be going in this weekend, along with finishing off the service from last week. Just need an antenna for it, although may hold off until I've got a front bar.

Have also started looking into suspension as I'm getting some 31's on TJ Wrangler 15" Alloys and will need the extra clearance. At the moment looking at a 2" kit from lovells to get me out of trouble for now, and then upgrading to a 4.5" long-arm kit as funds allow. The other option is to go the 4.5" short-arm, as it's a lot cheaper and allows more money for other mods.

Anyone have any experiences with both short- and long-arm kits? Have been looking at the Rubicon Express and Rough Country kits, but any other input would be more than welcome.

Fraz, if your busget is $10k all up, stick to short arm.

You will get a good quality short arm kit off one of the vendors on here for approx $3k including adjustable/replacement front arms.... or just springs and shocks should run to less than $2k. Keep the lift to 3" or less, and you wont need to replace the front panhard, and should get away without a SWE and short rear shaft kit to save $$. Dont get add-a -leafs for the rear, waste of money, get full replacement leaves, or shackles and blocks if you want to go cheap.

Some under guard trimming and the 31's should fit.

Install a lunchbox locker in the front (lock-rite etc) and it should walk around those cruisers and patrols offroad.

Thanks for that, have been tossing up what to do all day. :lol:

Have been looking at a Lokka for the front, and it already has a factory locker in the rear (I'm guessing detroit). Dual locked for under $600 sounds good to me. :D

Springs I can get cheap, shocks I can build at work to whatever lengths I want. Am not set on any height in particular, was more looking for clearance to run larger tyres. Ideally I'd like to get 32x10.5R15's under the guards, and am not afraid to do a little trimming if need be.

SYE and double-cardan rear shaft have been on the cards as more of a safeguard than anything else, but can be put on the back-burner if need be. Will be doing a hack-n-tap SYE as it's the cheapest and easiest option.

Rear-quarter chop with custom bar is also going to happen, I'll weld it up myself using pre-bent sections for simplicity during the build. The more clearance, the better. 8)

4.5 inch lift and ya will run 35s with guard chop easy as pie

im running 35s on a 3 inch lift and a massive guard chop


i would also stick to short arms, it still flexes just as good as long arms

ive been qouted from usa around the 1500 mark delivered for short arm kit

just the arms and brackets, need to add front n rear springs, and good quallity shockers to that


invest in lockers before 35 inch tyres too, xjs are very capable on 33s with their smaller diffs then nugget gqs.

twin locked on agressive 33s and ya will go very far, invest in a good winch too so there is no worry about trying harder obstaclkes ya just winch out!

feel free to shoot me a pm with any questions getting pretty knowledgable with xj set ups and ran 31 then 33s and now 35s with varying lifts, ill be moving up to 6 inch lift shortly and evuntly long arms and selling my short arms off

33's on 3" lift sounds like exactly what I want. Would it be a 33"x11.5 or can I get the full 12.5 under there?

Have also started looking into bull-bars. Xrox is looking like the easiest and cheapest at the moment, as it has to be airbag compliant so I can get it all engineered.

Here's a few pics of the old girl at the moment:
http://www.ausjeepoffroad.com/forum/...1&d=1377728057
http://www.ausjeepoffroad.com/forum/...1&d=1377728057

Nice XJ. looks like a great start base to build off.
What makes you think it has a rear diff lock?

I'll put up a picture when I get home of the sticker in the glove box. Basically, it's along the lines of "This vehicle is fitted with a locking rear differential. Do Not start this vehicle if one rear wheel is on the ground, as the vehicle may move"

That, and it spins up the inside wheel if I reverse or drive forwards at full steering lock.

lsd,,,,,,,,,

I thought so too until I saw the sticker below while checking out the 4wd system settings.

Unless I'm a total noob and this is jeep's way of saying I've got an LSD :|
http://www.ausjeepoffroad.com/forum/...1&d=1377762108

As far as I know they didn't come with an type of locker, only an LSD.

I have a 3.5" Rubicon express short arm kit on one of my XJs. (Bilstein 5100s, 31x10.5x15 discover STTs, and that's it for the suspenion.

I also have another XJ on 6.5". Rough country long arms, rough country rear leafs, Clayton 6.5" coils, Custom Shackles relocators, and Rustys .75" shackles. Bilstein 5100s in it, locked front and rear and some other jazz. She's spinning 35x12.5x15 BFG KM2s.

The RE lift feels stiffer than the RC one for some reason. I'm not sure if it's because the RC one is broken in more, or if the RE one is just stiff. If i were you i'd do long arms. They cost more, but i love them. Flex like crazy.

Feel free to hit me with questions or what have you. If you ever need random odds and ends thrown over the pond PM me and i'll throw them over for the cost of shipping.

Good luck dude.

Sorry to dissapoint you but they all have that sticker, bit misleading but they are referring to the LSD. XJ's have tight LSD's, my stock XJ always chirps tires on tight turns.
I had a feeling that you saw that sticker and with the tight lsd thought you had a locker, that's why I asked.

Welcome mate. 33s on 3" is where I'm headed - along with cutout flares, ford 8.8 rear and 4.56 gears. 285/75 16s are relatively common across brands and come out to about 33x11.5. Look forward to the build :-)

Bugger! haha

That's okay, the guys at work don't know it's just an LSD :lol:

I've started pricing up the short-arm kit and it's looking a lot more manageable than the long-arm. Will also have a little change left over for a lunch-box locker and the bigger tyres.

Will be picking up a set of 31's on TJ Wrangler 15" alloys on Saturday. A friend is selling his TJ and needs tyres that don't scrub on the standard suspension. I've also done him a few favours fixing up his various cars, so the swap is sort of payment as well. It won't be getting driven around much with the 31's until I've got at least a 2" kit in it, although I'm led to believe a 2" in the Sport is the equivalent of a 3" in the other models?

I'll be building shocks for it once the short-arms are in. That way I can make use of the extra flex, and I'll only have to build the shocks once for it. Have also spoken to the engineer at work, and he's happy to sign off on it as long as everything is done properly. He's not too keen on the long-arm set-up, but is happy for me to use the shackle relocation kit as they strengthen that area of the frame up a little in the process. Also gives me some more adjustability for the leaf springs.

With the leafs, I'll most likely be building my own spring starting with a Lovells 2" lifted spring for the Sport. Finding the right width leaves will be the hardest part (65mm wide), but I should get it flexing up pretty well once it's all done. Here's a pic of my Triton flexing out the rear leaves to give you an idea. ;)

http://i620.photobucket.com/albums/t...g?t=1377303364

The left wheel was still firmly on the ground in that photo, and the spring was just starting to separate in the retaining clamps. I know the XJ is going to have a lot more flex than that, given that it has a much longer leaf spring to play with. I might see if I can sneak some .75" or 1" extended shackles in with the shackle relocation kit to get a little more down-travel from the rear. 8)

Got some more work done to the XJ yesterday. Finished off the service from last week (engine oil, filter, coolant).

Tried to do the rocker-cover gasket, but that was stopped when I broke just about every part of the PCV line at the front of the rocker cover. Is that something that is Jeep-genuine only? or can I replacements elsewhere? Will also need new rubber grommets for the rocker cover, as mine have gone just a little bit hard.:hammer:

Should also hopefully be able to get some photos up of it sitting on the new alloys and 31's this arvo 8)

Got the 31's and TJ Wrangler alloys fitted last night. Took the pics out the front of work this morning. There's one steel spare as the last allow has a slow leak, so I'll have to clean out the beads and check it over fully.

They're also REALLY LOUD, but nothing a little radio can't fix. Need the lifted springs now though, as they scrub on the inside of the rear guard when I've got my toolbox in the back. :lol:

http://www.ausjeepoffroad.com/forum/...1&d=1378075641

http://www.ausjeepoffroad.com/forum/...1&d=1378075641

It's always fun when new goodies turn up to work 8)

http://www.ausjeepoffroad.com/forum/...1&d=1378427711
http://www.ausjeepoffroad.com/forum/...1&d=1378427711

Just need to order the upper and lower arms, track rod, tie rods and panhard rod.

They sell those aftermarket over here in the USA.

I highly doubt these links will do you any good, but it should show you the details and what not of the part. I bought mine genuine from Jeep for like $10 each.

Rubber Grmmets - http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...searchTerm=pcv

Back of Valve Cover - http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...searchTerm=pcv

Front Of Valve Cover - http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...searchTerm=pcv

Finally finished the lift-kit over the weekend. Drives a lot smoother now, but I need to get the arms for the front end to get it working properly. Will be getting a rough alignment today, and again when I get the Panhard and steering arms. Might need to lift the front a little more to level it out a bit when it's empty. :lol:

There's about 20mm of down travel on all four shocks, so I'll have to work on getting the control arms soon. Then I'll be able to build a fancy set of Blue monotubes to match the blue springs. :P

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-i...2520lifted.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-m...r%2520Leaf.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-n...%2520Coils.jpg

Finally got a chance to throw it up on the flex-ramp at work after fitting the springs. Disconnected the front sway-bar, and the rear is barely flexing yet. 8)

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-F...xed%2520up.jpg

Update! :D
 

Alrighty, haven't done much to the old girl lately, been too busy with work and the Sydney 4WD Show. But, now that it's all quietened down a bit, time for more mods!

Firstly - Sliders. Ordered a set of the RockCandy ones (just made it onto the end of the fab run). Then they sat in the garage for about a month before getting fitted up. Fitted them over 3 nights with lots of swearing, bloodied knuckles and broken drill bits.

Next - Steering Bits. Replaced the Tie Rod and Track Bar with HD units from Wooders, and the Steering Damper with a HD Foam Cell from Lovells. Then got a rough alignment (castor is still WAY out).

Finally - New Bump-stops and coil-spacers. 30mm spacers from SuperPro for the front, and RE 1" bumpstops from Wooders. Took a little creative thinking to get them fitted, but all in now and good to have two bump-stops again.

Here's how she sits today:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.n...76470333_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.n...53173684_n.jpg

On the list now - Front and rear shocks, shackle relocation brackets, ext. shackles (around 1") and long arms

Little bit more today: Managed to finish building the front shocks at work today. Machined the cross-bar for the lower mount after work, and pressed the bushes and cross-bars into the shocks before I left. Got home and started to pull out the original monotubes. Got them out without too much fuss thankfully, as this was only the beginning.

Out with the old:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-9...105_191322.jpg

Compare the pair:
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-z...105_191140.jpg

It wasn't until I fitted the new shocks to the vehicle that I realised my mistake - I'd forgotten to measure the size of the lower shock eye.
:hammer::hammer::hammer::hammer::hammer::hammer:

The eye is a little too big for the mounting bracket, so the shock won't sit down properly. I spent so long making sure I'd grabbed the right cross-bars and was getting the lengths and valving right, that I'd forgotten to make sure the lower eye would actually fit and just assumed it would. :roll:

Missed it by that much...
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-x...105_193354.jpg

I'll grab the dremel from work tomorrow and grind out the mounts where necessary. On the bright side, the new bump-stops look like they'll limit the up-travel just enough for the shocks to work on full up-travel. Down travel isn't an issue, as these shocks have more than enough movement in them with the standard control arms (620mm/375mm open/closed).

Also managed to pick up an old alloy non-winch bar from work for very cheap. Currently painted white, but I'll be sanding it back and painting it in grey hammer-tone before fitting it to the xj. Will also be modifying it a little to get the approach angles as good as, if not better than standard.

I'm now at a point though where I'm tossing up whether to go short- or long-arm again. Short-arm is cheaper and easier, but long-arm offers better/more flexibility with a smoother ride. Seeing as I won't be taking it too much higher than where it's sitting now, is there much advantage in going the long-arm upgrade over the short-arm? It's sitting at a full 2" over a standard sport with 300kg in the boot, so around 3" over a limited/classic.

Any opinions/ideas are greatly appreciated. :D

Ground out the lower shock mounts on the front and fitted the new shocks. Aren't Dremel's wonderful things? :lol:

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-s...108_192302.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-x...108_192640.jpg

How much are you allowing for bump stop compression to stop bottoming out your shocks and causing damage?

Hey, only just saw this. Measured up the shocks and bump-stop clearance while I was fitting them up, and it looks to be okay.

Shock Length (in vehicle): 515mm
Shock Length (Closed): 375mm
Bump Stop Clearance: 90mm

So I've got about 140mm of shock up-travel with 90mm of bump-stop clearance. The 50mm of bump-stop compression should be more than enough, especially with them being polyurethane. ;)

Anyway, I ran the original monotubes and the custom shocks on the dyno at work yesterday, and the valving is just right. On compression the new ones are a little softer to acommodate the higher spring rate used to get the lift, while being about 1.5x heavier on rebound for the same reason. A little more gas pressure than OEM for stability, and it's riding really nice.8)

That is a good amount for bump stop compression. I run the same with no problems and tested it using a nylon tie on the shock shaft, I run without boots, so I could see how much of the shock was being used..

Bought a full set of second hand RE Super-Flex short arms off rob.rock and fitted them up last night. Then proceeded to take it for it's first drive off-road with the guys from work.

Got off the main road, aired down to 15psi on the 31's (could have gone lower, 15 didn't bag them out too much) and disconnected the sway-bar. I've gotta say, I was pretty impressed with how it all went. A few of the guys commented on how stable it was, and it was definitely different to driving the Triton off-road. No more picking the perfect line to keep the front wheels on the ground. Just point, shoot and maybe a little left-foot brake to keep it in check.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-A...36935018_o.jpg

Next up - Drop boxes and longer shocks on the front (again). Then SYE and CV-style double-cardan tail shaft. 8)

Some new bits and pieces have been added, and I've also taken it for a full-days off-roading now too! Still getting used to driving it off-road, as the body tends to follow what the rear wheels are doing, where I'm used to the body following the IFS setup in the triton.

First off, I fitted up some RE Swaybar Disconnects. Need to relocate the "disconnected" fob, as it scrubs against the tyre at full compression. :(

Anyway, I had to re-do the cooling system as the original radiator was leaking like a sieve. I would have to top the overflow bottle up every day, asd it was leaking from a couple of different places. I've since installed an ADRAD HD Copper/Brass 2-row radiator, and it's fixed the leaking issues. The original rad in mine was already a copper/brass by the looks of it, as it only ever overheated when stationary. Because of this, I've also replaced the viscous fan coupling with a Dayco unit. The fact that I can actually hear the fan now is a big improvement over the original, and it doesn't go over 105 in traffic either! :D

While I had everything apart, I fitted a 7-row auto cooler in front of the A/C auxiliary fan. Now there's no issues with the auto overheating in stop-start traffic, causing it to slip and carry on especially in reverse. I've also wired up the aux. fan to a separate switch so that I can turn it on whenever I want to keep the engine and auto cool.

Original auto cooler above the new 7-row unit:
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-0...207_160109.jpg

All fitted up, sits nice and snug behind the grille:
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-H...207_160808.jpg
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-x...207_204744.jpg

Fancy wiring for A/C fan:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-x...207_204754.jpg

Next round for the cooling system is to replace the water pump, thermostat and housing with High-flow ones from Hesco. I'll also (hopefully) be fitting up a fiberglass cowl to the bonnet to help improve the engine bay temps. I'm currently halfway through installing the new audio system though, so that may take a while before I'm back on track. :lol:

Also, a few action shots from the Lithgow trip with the SJC:

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2808/1...426f54489c.jpg

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5543/1...e47b4ea5db.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7360/1...3c515cf65a.jpg

Latest edition to the budget build is a set of Adjustable 2" Patrol rear shocks. Pulled them off a vehicle at work as the customer wanted gas-charged shocks instead of the foam-cell adjustables, and they'd only been on his vehicle 3-4 months. 8) They're a little longer than the OE's on closed length at 415mm, however it's nothing a 2" bump-stop spacer can't fix. ;) Open length is around 650mm, so have removed the brake-line from the mount for now and cable-tied the hard-line further back at the bend.

Down-Travel with old shocks-
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-H...128_184735.jpg

Old vs. New
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-R...128_200235.jpg

Down-travel with new shocks-
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-o...128_185214.jpg

Brake line mod-
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-r...128_201257.jpg

Also in the process of installing the new stereo set-up. 4x 6.5" 90W RMS component speakers and an 8" 300W sub in the back. Powered by 2 amps; door speakers run through a 4x100W amp and the sub has it's own 300W monoblock. Topped off with a Pioneer bluetooth and USB single din head-unit, it should be nice and clear at all volumes.

Go Jeep has done an extension bracket to sort out your temp fix http://www.go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoBrakeExtension.htm

I've got a 5" extended rear brake line on order, just waiting for the local enzed to get the fittings in stock. Also have a couple of extension brackets pulled off other vehicles, so will have a look at maybe adapting one of them to suit. ;)

Also, as an aside, what length shocks do people run with a 6" lift? Mine's currently sitting at 3", but will be going to 5" shortly with 33" tyres, so bump-stops will be further extended in the front to suit. Am trying to get away with as little guard-chopping as possible, while still maintaining as much travel as possible.

Managed to get some more work done to this over the last couple of days. Have rego coming up shortly so needed to get rid of all the oil leaks. Replaced the sump gasket and rear-main seal, although I have a horrible suspicion that the front main seal is either on its way out or already gone. Lots of crud behind the harmonic balancer, along with coolant dripping from somewhere. :(

Anyway, back to the rear end to finish what I previously started:

Made up a couple of bump-stop spacers for the rear end at work. Had some spare 50x75mm RHS at work that was 2.5mm thick. Originally started making them from 50x65mmx1.5, but decided they wouldn't be strong enough. These should allow me to run a 4" patrol rear shock without bottoming out the shock, which allows me time to upgrade as more parts turn up. This should also hopefully stop the 31's from scrubbing, although I may be getting 32's or 33's soon, just have to wait and see.

Also ordered RE extended shackles from Wooders, and bought the 6" coils and shackle relocation brackets off Tuffeb on here. Looking forward to it all turning up so I can test it on the trails.

Anyway, photo time!

Bump-stop spacer - 75mm spacing-
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-W...201_182743.jpg

Bump-stops bolted to the bracket using M14x1.5 flange nuts and high tensile bolts-
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-H...201_183719.jpg

Bolted together-
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-b...201_183712.jpg

Comparison of old clearance to new clearance-
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-z...201_182643.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-U...201_182654.jpg

While I was at it, I also made up a Brake-line relocation bracket. This can be straightened out to further space the brake line down if need be, but should be fine for the time being.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Q...202_104628.jpg

Finally got around to fitting up the snorkel. Pretty simple install as long as you line the template up correctly :% Came up looking pretty good though, and passed the air-tight test (hand over intake pipe) so I know it's waterproof. :D

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-m...223_174210.jpg

Hasn't made any change to economy that I can see, although engine temps are slightly lower at cruise (60km/h+) and power seems to be a little better above 80.

As I had to remove the original washer bottle, what have people used as replacements? I'm not afraid to modify the original washer bottle if need be, however would like something with 3 washer pumps so I can set up a radiator spray.

Will also be pulling apart the cooling system (again) to replace the thermostat housing and thermostat, but not before some new fun-bits arrive at work. 8)

Re: XJ: Fraz's Budget Build
 

Hi fraz.
How did you go with your washer bottle? I just put a snorkel on and I'm planning on putting the old bottle in the other wheel arch this weekend. Do you have any tips?

check the o ring around the oil filter l adapter (engine side of adapter not filter side) it leaks out of there and runs back making it look a little like rear main

Haven't been on here in a while, been way too busy and haven't been able to get any of the work done to the XJ that I've needed to. Finally started getting some bits and pieces done today while I've got some time off.

Thanks for the heads up. I've ordered a gasket set from RockAuto for this, so will be replacing these seals along with the rear main (again), front main and timing case (seal and case).

Today I managed to remove the whole front end. Replaced the water pump, thermostat and housing, and cleaned out the block.

All apart-
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-8...103_132504.jpg

New Water pump and thermostat/housing fitted
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-w...103_143646.jpg

As you can see, the timing case has copped a beating from the harmonic balancer, so will be replacing that while the front is all apart before the balancer goes back on. This will HOPEFULLY be the end of my cooling system and general oil leak problems... :rolleyes:

Also have the ball-joints, front diff gears and bigger coils to put in. Tossing up whether to use a set of 4" coils I pulled off a wrangler at work, or the 6" coils I've had for a while... Will be running extended shackles with the Lovells leaf springs for the moment, as I still need to have a play with the custom leafs I made up...