WG 2.7CRD - Oil in Coolant Bottle??
 

Hi All,

Hoping I can get some guidance and/or confirmation on a problem I've discovered with the 2003 WG 2.7CRD, named by the kids as "Matilda". Seems Matilda is a bit sick. The coolant fluid level indicator had been coming on for a day or so, so yesterday afternoon I went to top it up and discovered oil in there. My first thought was "head gasket" which sent the moths in my wallet fluttering for cover. I did the obligatory online search for this issue and it seems there are 3 possible causes; 1 - head gasket, 2 - Oil Cooler, and 3 - Transmission cooler. After reading and watching some YouTube vids online I suspect one of those but will leave that until later to reveal.

Symptoms; Apart from the low fluid level, nothing has been out of the ordinary with the car. My wife drives it usually and so it was she who told me the "battery" light was coming on. I told her that was the fluid level light. It has once previously been low so I didn't think too much of it.

Checks made;
Oil Filler Cap - checked for milky white stuff, nothing, just black oil (see photo) Note oil change done about 3000km ago.
Dip Stick - Nothing unusual here it seems (see photo)
Fluid Filler Bottle - Oily substance looks black in colour, no red or other colours present (see photo showing paddle pop stick dunked into bottle)
Transmission Fluid - Opened the line that goes to the intercooler and drained a small amount - looks okay (see photo). Note it's on my to do list to change this and I have no history of when it was last done if at all.

So based on the above I'm leaning towards the oil cooler being the problem as there appears to be no evidence of coolant getting into the engine oil or transmission fluid. I'll admit I didn't even know such a thing existed so I'm learning on that one. I've not as yet downloaded a manual but did see in my searches that it appears an onerous process to replace it. Some of the YouTube videos make it look pretty straight forward but different vehicle makes. I've attached a photo of what could be the cooler and happy to be advised if that's correct or otherwise.

So based on the above I'm interested to hear if others think it's the cooler. Any other checks I can do? I can take the car to a mechanic to see if there are exhaust gases in the coolant but not keen to drive it too much. Thanks guys.

Indie.http://www.ausjeepoffroad.com/forum/...e35d7737ca.jpghttp://www.ausjeepoffroad.com/forum/...e35f422e9c.jpghttp://www.ausjeepoffroad.com/forum/...e362ecb01d.jpghttp://www.ausjeepoffroad.com/forum/...e3653b8012.jpghttp://www.ausjeepoffroad.com/forum/...e380f789ba.jpg

I'd be looking at the cooler. I don't know what other checks you can do to confirm it, though.

+1 . have done this myself prig of a job.
A bit of light reading for you.
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?url...9&share_type=t

Cheers, Ben.

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It'll be the oil cooler. I've replaced one with the inlet manifold off, never done it while it's in place. I'd expect it will be a $hit of a job. to do.

You'll also have the problems of getting the oil out the of the cooling system and the water out of the sump.

Parts aren't expensive, fortunately. These are the parts you'll require, check local MB pricing for comparison as it may be quicker to get them locally.

https://europarts-sd.com/oilcooler2002-2006.asp

https://europarts-sd.com/oilcoolerseal2002-2006.asp

Rock Auto have the cooler for a bit over $60. Look under 2004 Dodge Sprinter.

Guys, as usual sterling assistance, thanks.

Ben, that thread is a good read thanks.
Bodgie, I had read of some coolers coming with gaskets and others not so will ensure I get one.
JeanLuke, good find that, just wondering if they have the seal.

This shit always seems to happen on a Friday where I have to wait until the Monday in the US to get parts happening. I'll call MB locally to see what they've got and if that fails I'll order from the US.

Yep the issue of getting the cooling system cleaned out and how far you go with it is one I'm thinking about.For those who have done this is there any special equipment needed? Did you just pour in the cleaner and let gravity do the work? I expect you'd have to run the motor to get the oil out of the engine as well. I'll do some searches on this.

Thanks again guys.

The cooler gasket is on eBay https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F253665151194

Wouldn't bother local. Merc are usually cheaper but jeep quoted me about $350 just for cooler.
I found it was only one way also . oil into water no water in oil. Had too flush rad a few times , but ended up with no oil left in there. Did it in situ also.

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It's the same brand as Europarts SD too.

Going to call the local MB parts place to see if they have the seal available. Just so I can be prepared, does anyone know the engine model number in MB language? Wiki tells me it's a OM612. Thanks.

Update; Don't worry about that, the MB guys say there's a few varieties of that engine so they needed more detail which I can't give them. The cooler part number is a Jeep number which they can't relate to. I gave them the MB part number of A6111840280 for the seal and they were happy with that and have one in stock for $7.55. Very happy with that price so I'll be picking it up this morning and then ordering the cooler from OS shortly after. They did find the correct cooler based on the seal but price was $370 so declined that offer. I've placed an order with RockAuto for the cooler at $44USD and opted for expedited shipping at $33USD (standard only $12USD), pretty good pricing all up. Hopefully they all mate together with no issues.

If it all goes together, perhaps update the "everything 2.7 CRD" thread with the part numbers?

For sure.

As to flushing out the cooling system, my cooler won't turn up until later this week. I'm thinking it would be a good idea to flush out the system before I install the new one. To do this I'd drain the current coolant/oil, refill with water (filtered) and degreaser, then run motor for say 15 minutes, allow to cool sufficiently to then drain again, and repeat 3 times before draining to install new cooler. Any reason to not do it before the new cooler is in? I understand there is currently a leak between oil system and coolant system but it appears to be a one way leak. So possibly I'm better off not taking that risk and just draining the existing coolant/oil before replacing the cooler. Happy to hear others thoughts on it.

Be careful with the choice of degreaser. What will it do to hoses and seals?

CT14. Used many times by those with this problem previously.

I'd reckon you'd pump more oil into the cooling system as you still have a faulty cooler installed.

I'd be inclined to wait to clean the system until after the new cooler is installed. While you're working on the cooling system, it may be a good idea to replace the water pump if the k's are getting up there. Mine was rooted at 240,000km FWIW.

I also vote for cleaning the system after replacing the oil cooler.

Agree with Bodgie, my water pump gave out at 220k also,but lucky i noticed coolant drips before it went bang.

This is the pump I purchased, good quality/price:

https://www.precisionintl.com/Catego...=35&Engine=873

The Part Number is WP5942G

Jason

#me_too

I ordered the cooler from RockAuto as per JeanLuke's info on page 1 of this thread. $47USD and I opted for speedier delivery at $33USD which means it will arrive tomorrow according to DHL. So that equates to $120AUD delivered which is pretty good. I'll drain the coolant and get ready for fitting on the weekend. All going well I should get out of this for under $200.

Update; Scratch the $200 budget. Just got back from SuperCheap where I spent $105 on demineralized water plus coolant plus CT14 degreaser. Hopefully $250 will cover it. :(

Good luck with it. If you haven't got 1/4 drive and torx bits get some. Its tight in there with the manifold on and you need to be a contortionist. :)

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Thanks Ben.

WRT the 1/4" drive and torx bits, I have hunted around for those including on eBay (Australian stock only as I'm not prepared to wait for the chinese slow boat). Seems the E10 is the size required but I can only find that in a 3/8" drive so that's what I've now got. Not sure it will fit in the tight spaces but will give it a go.

And I like how guys in other threads say "take out the battery tray". Shit what a job that was. To get the front bolt out I had to lift the power steering reservoir as high as possible without taking the lines off, then use a dremel to shave down the side wall of the tray so I could get a ring spanner on it. PITA. Done now so on to the next problem.

Part of working on WG's is training with a circus contortionist. Did we forgot to mention that?

What I need is a mini-me. Well that wouldn't make any difference as I just tried the E10 socket and got it on the upper passenger side bolt but there's no way in hell I'm going to get that with a ratchet driver into that gap. I tried a standard ring spanner on a bolt that is accessible and the same size on the inlet manifold and I managed to get it undone so it can be done with a ring spanner. However the raised lip around the edge of the cooler mounting plate prevents the ring spanner getting onto the bolt. That and the myriad of shit around the place. I'm keen to hear what tools others used in this situation. I'm tempted to get the dremel out and grind down that raised lip on the cooler so I can get the ring spanner on it.

I've poured myself a drink to wash away the frustration. I'll continue to ponder it all in the meantime.

I have a KJ CRD. Not much better. :D

This guy looks the go.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Hinged-E...32y:rk:27:pf:0

Often you'll find a metric ring spanner or socket will do the job on Torx bolts. I'll try to crack the bolt with the correct tool ( I have sockets, ring spanners, ratchet spanners) and they will use a ringy that'll have a little more freedom to work the bolt in a tight space.

Also just because it's a Torx there now, it doesn't need to stay that way. I've replaced a few bolts with hex heads as they're often easier to work within some positions.

Well I ordered that hinged spanner from eBay and the seller has apparently sent it already. So hopefully Tuesday I'll get it and then I can hit it.

How did this end?

It hasn't as yet. The socket/driver combo I got could not fit into the space to get the uppermost bolt on the passenger side undone. That spanner I ordered took way longer than quoted to arrive. I was then so busy with other things including a course I was on that the car has sat there in the meantime. Only today have I popped the bonnet to look at it again. Will make sure I know what I'm doing before I re-start the process. I'll keep you posted.

Brad.

Hey all. Well after many other priorities finally being put to bed I've been able to get back to this lovely project. :D I got the old cooler out on Monday and put the new one in yesterday followed by replacing the battery tray etc. This is certainly up there with the most frustrating jobs I've ever done on a car.

That all said I'm about to add the CT14 for flushing the cooling system out. The Chemtech site does not have any information about using this particular product as a cooling system flush. Going by their directions I'm going to make it in the middle of the suggested range at 1 part per 15 of water. I've read about extended flush periods so thinking it would be good to leave this in for a day or so with normal driving before flushing, then repeating another one or two times before going back to normal coolant. Any thoughts on that? Thanks.

And if anyone has a better method to drain the system rather than just removing the lower radiator hose I'm keen to hear it. Doing this job on the concrete as I don't have an accessible bit of grass to do this over and it's messy!

CT14 looks to be degreaser rather than a flushing agent so I don't know how well it would work as to remove any sludge in the system.

I don't know about the diesel rad, but the petrol rads have drain taps at the bottom of the rad. Leaving radiator cap on and opening tap will pull fluid out of overflow bottle, when that's empty removing the rad cap might speed up the rest of the drain.

Thanks Jonny, so far I've just been removing the bottom hose and is doing the job. Also moved the car onto the footpath for doing this so the mess is not quite so much of a problem.

The CT14 is being used to assist getting rid of the oil buildup in the cooling system, so not a normal system flush and is what is recommended to use in these cases. I've done two full flushes so far and definitely the amount of oil in each is reducing so seems to be working. I think it will be very hard to remove all the oil but will see how I go.

I flushed mine about 3 times then did it with water another 3 times then filled with coolant. No problems.

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Got the third lot of CT14 in it now though this time I added less and will run it for a day or so then flush that out. The oil is back to more of a slick on top of the water rather than a full sludge so it's def' doing the trick. I'll likely run another couple of CT14 mixes through it before I go to just water for a few flushes.

Thanks for the input guys.