Hey Guys

2010 CRD here

I have 2 optimas linked up in a dual battery system.

Is there a way to set the alternator to the 14.3 volts default output by unplugging something?

I have relocated both batteries to the rear of the Jeep so I'm not worried about temps.

I usually see 13.9v - 14.2v on my scangauge and would like a bit more juice



EugeJK - I read your post, where is the connector that you unplugged?

In the early CRD days the system would overcharge the CRD's battery so the dealers apparently did a reflash of the TIPM to lower the charge voltage. So technically it is a programmable parameter. However..... the chances of getting a dealer to reverse this i'd guess is pretty low. In most cases they just reflash via a download and going backwards on revisions isn't something they do. Still you could ask..... but given the CRD's history of failed batteries I think they would say no.

IMHO just get a Dc to DC battery management system - at least its a known thing with no downsides except cost :-)

Got 7+ years use out of original US manufactured Optima on my 2007 built (2009 registered) CRD (stood 2 years in Chrysler's car park before it was sold)
It doesn't get too hot over here in UK
Guess that makes the difference.
Replaced it with another of Mexico manufacture (hope it lasts as long)

Sorry to hijack here (although could be what the original poster was getting at) but for the purposes of a CTEK D250SA (or similar DC-DC Charger), does any wiring need to be done to account for a “smart alternator”? I noticed my CTEK has a couple of wires that seem to be only for cars with smart alternators. I’m gathering from this thread that the alternator itself isn’t actually very smart but there is some smart things going on behind the scenes

Should add I have a 2014 3.6 JKU

It's on the alternator, 3-pin connector with 1 active wire. Mine defaulted to 14.2-14.3V once I disconnected it. But you'll get battery warning light as the ECM senses it no more.

Cheers.

Have you been running around like that ever since? or have you connected it again now?

Re
I have a ctek250S and it needs nothing extra. I think it stops taking power when main battery drops below 12.5v. Your SA version is probably similar as it's just got the added benefit of higher output voltage for AGM. I simply use the existing rear socket wiring to run the ctek in the rear. Fuse selected for always on. Been running since 2012.
JKU 3.6L 2012