Rear drum conundrum.
 

Hey all

Replaced my drum shoes, wheel cylinders, all springs and self adjuster hardware.

I have adjusted them accordingly, getting them to work well. Adjusters do sit correctly, then after driving, the leg bit which stops the star wheel spinning moves out of whack and doesn't stop movement of the wheel. A bit of movement of the drum liners with the drum off and it gets back into position. I also have an inconsistent pedal, the brakes have been bled. I feel this is due to the rear brakes, as the handbrake goes soft and hard too...

I also installed the 'strut' upside down, how it's stepped so it avoids the axle shaft. It makes no difference in the install, but I am not sure if it rides on the wheel cylinder to keep things aligned. Pic below of one installed properly. The direction of the spring is right but the curve is upside down. Anyone able to let me know if this is an issue?


Cheers all

Mt guess is this - https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/...ust-read.1987/

Mines like that. I held the metal guide in place with skinny vice grips while putting the spring on. The pedal feels super inconsistent to be honest. Sometimes good other times I have to push the pedal too far. It seems related to the use of the handbrake.

Here’s a pic of mine before I got rid of them.
Best thing I ever did was replace them with rear discs.

Also, check the rails that the front pads sit on. If these are grooved, the pads can hang up and affect the pedal.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...d1042fe529.jpg


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Hamish your install looks correct to me
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Does your self adjuster turn the right way? That is the one shown in the pic should be lengthening when the adjusting blade pulls up. both rear brakes use adjusters the are opposite threaded, on the side shown LH thread the opposite side RH thread. The system is simple and been used a long time and usually trouble free my 1970 Dodge Charger has an almost identical mechanism.
The spreader bar is only part of the hand brake system it doesn't play a part in the self adjuster.

One thing that is sometimes missed is the seating of the cable guide. It should be sat flat against the steel of the shoe if the lip is sat in the hole correctly, and isn't always obvious. If it isn't sat correctly the adjuster could potentially unwind.

The lip on the guide should also be checked for fractures. I've seen it before when cleaning the brakes. If the lip fractures and breaks, the guide can slip and the cable slacken. The guide needs to be removed to check for fractures around the lip, for flush fit you can try and slip a feeler gauge or piece of paper behind it.