Tap Water :shock:.... http://www.freesmileys.org/smileys/smiley-angry009.gif ....... :lol:

How did you go bruggzy ???

Did you compare the products ?? ... Basically, the Nulon concentrate should give you the same thing as a pre-mix Type B coolant with no eth-gly.

If it has minimal or no eth-gly it is a Type B coolant.

A quality brand Type B coolant should have all the anti-foam agents and corrosion inhibitors that a Type A coolant has.

Some brands may sell an "inhibitor" concentrate ... that is only a soluble oil and not the chemical cocktail.

Type A coolant gets percentages of eth-gly added .... and the extra chemicals to keep the eth-gly under control.


For short term use ... and followed by a good flushing ... Its not such an issue ..... but chlorine and all the other council provided goodies ... In a vehicle cooling system ... Over the long term ... No ThankYou ;)


Google ... Aust Std 2108 2004 Type B "coolants" ... suitable for use in cast iron engines ... or any engine for that matter .... but the pooncy alloy ones do benefit a bit from the thicker viscosity of the liquid when a bit of eth-gly is added to the mix ..... as long the radiator size and cooling fans make up for the increased running temps caused by the eth-gly poor heat shedding ability.

The service manual calls for 50/50 eth-gly/water mix because some of the service centres that use the manual have -30* winter temperatures .... and its a northern hemisphere, average, ratio mix suitable for a range of vehicles & engines ... "Average" being the thing that should be most understood.

Its not the "old" eth-gly thats the issue ... its the worn out additives. Basically .. a 5yr "coolant" is only a 2yr, 3yr or 4yr "coolant" if the system is not properly flushed.

http://www.fadzter.com/smilies/thumbsup.gif

Yeah, but Brugz is talking about potentialy mixing what he currently has (i am making an assumtion it is an eth/gly) with this non eth/gly. Want to make sure it is all completly flushed, otherwise the mixing of the different coolants could have adverse results (this is the myth/fact I was refering to). Not so much mixing old and new coolant (like for like).

:cool::cool:

Nah, sorry XJeepers,
At the time, I only had tap water in the rad.**)
Mad, I know, but it was only short term.

My question was about the difference in the two coolants. I already had a new and unopened bottle of NULON, but had found a 'non eth-gly' product and was wondering if it would be better.

Is that a bit clearer? lol.


cheers

Hi, I would like to add my experiance, and paste my first forum article about this,
" I have a 95 xj and sorted my heat problem.
It started after I serviced the cooling system which appears common from US forums.
This got me thinking about 70's mopar mussle cars which had common dramas with water vapor lock in the blocks.
Tried this... Got xj hot carefully removed radiator cap jambed a coke bottle full of water on top of the radiator inlet and pumped the top hose a lot. Fitted in 3 more liters of water!
This sort of fixed it.
Stage 2
Total flush. Put radiator flush in system turned heater on ( important!) and ran it for 20 minutes. Drained system, took off top and bottom hoses and thermostat, flushed in both directions at high pressure for probably an hour same with radiator. Got a heap of brown goo sort of like algea out. Got a hose joiner ( about inch and a quater i think) cut the top hose in the middle of the straight section in the middle and fitted the joiner with hose clamps. Drilled a small c/s self tapper screw in the top of the joiner
Reasembled all and filled with coolant.
Over the next few weeks just undid the screw half a turn straight after a drive and let some air out with Engine hot and turned off. You have to remember to keep the radiator top off tank full as every time it cools down it's going to suck a lot more water in
In answer to probable questions.
No the screw does not leak, you just be gentle with it and the bite at the counter sink keeps it sealed, I did this a year ago and no probs.
The problem was most evident going up a steep hill the temp would go straight up.
This is the problem I think, glycol can promote algea growth, this is why manufacturers suggest radiator flush once a year. With a older car with a poor cylinder head design you can get algea blocking the water flow, if you don't flush the heater as well there if always more algea to grow.
Being totally full of water is not critical but with a very long six cylinder with a fairly high mounted water pump I think what was happening was the system was down about 3-4 liters when just doing a standard fill. When I was going up a step hill the water flowing to the back of the block was exposing the water pump to the air in the block and causing pump cavitation ( this is when the pump impeller grabs some air and just spins this air and steam) so instant over heat as you effectively have no pump. I took the pump off and checked it and there was cavitation pitting on the inside of the pump but not enough to affect it's performance.
Stage 3
I still had a lot of under bonnet heat though the XJ was not over heating this turned out to be cracked headers and a leaking exhaust manifold gasket, I took the headers off and welded them up ... temp fix as they will crack again eventualy but ok so far bolted all back together and it's gone from the top of the bonnet being to hot to hold your hand on, to normal road car temps !"

ok so I need to add, after all this my xj ran cool but the temp would range up and down, plus while my highway fuel ecconomy was very good, around town it was bad, I recently tried the thermostat fix from the one parts places give you here (82deg and $40!) to one from rockauto in the states (95deg and $1.45!!!!) I now run a very consistant temp and this helped my mileage alot along with a few other parts

Must have missed your post Bruggz :%

:hammer:

Crystal :)

fwiw most cooling system are pressurised to 1.1bar, this actualy raises the boiling point of pure water (distilled or ro/di) to 121 deg C, your jeep should not actualy reach this temperature. the coolant additives in this case are not being used to increase boiling point, and are mainly there for anti corosive effects.