Diesel xj crankshaft damper (pully) nut removal
 

How do I stop the crank turning to remove the pully .. I want to get the timing chain cover off to check the oil seal and cover gasket as before my issue with heaps of oil in my intake I'm pretty sure that I blew a seal here somewhere and all my problems started with hard starting and coughing then .. if I filled my oil too fast (as Layback 40 said he did not long ago in response to my other thread "oil in the intake"), would it not read on the dip stick for a while before starting?? causing me to over fill the oil and blowing an oil seal possibly? https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...26b471bac3.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...228d8963c4.jpg

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Ok so I have discovered with more research that I have to use special vm tools for this procedure of removing the crankshaft damper (pully) nut and changing the timing cover oil seal (pics added below).. question is how do I get my hands on these special VM tools or any suggestions on a home made version that will do the trick (eg like the first injector special tool socket I was able to just cut a 28mm deep socket to do that job a few years back) so #1: flywheel needs to be locked somehow with out the special tool? .. #2: anyone here installed a timing cover oil seal on their xj cherokee without the special tool that could give advice?https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...e03d72dfc0.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...ed66572793.jpg

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

nut
 

A rattle gun is your best option, if you don't have one then.....

Done this a few times undoing crank pulley bolts BUT be careful.

Get a breaker bar that is long enough that it will reach the left hand chassis rail when fitted to the socket and installed on the pulley bolt.

Now turn back away from the chassis rail about 12 inches, make sure its secure on the pulley bolt and hit the key to crank the engine ( make sure you disconnect the fuse for the ecu so the engine can't start). the sudden stop on the chassis rail will normally impact the bolt loose.

Use some rags or a piece of rubber so you don't dint the rail.
If it doesn't go the first time turn it back a bit more than the first time to give it a bit more momentum.

This has never failed me but you just have to be real careful

nut
 

Sorry Jumunji-XJTD

You posted as I was typing my reply then I read that the bolt is left hand thread so what I just told you won't work unless that engine turns opposite to most everything else. Actually thats a hell of a lot of torque it's tightened to so looks like you will need to lock the flywheel some how.

Sorry mate.

Yeah unfortunately the engine runs clockwise at the crank so that would just tighten it [emoji6] good idea tho.. and the rattle gun yes I have but this bolt is 441nm torque my gun won't inpact that amount of torque.. it seems I'll have to remove the starter motor and Jimmy up a locking device similar to the special tool to lock the flywheel and use the breaker bar manually I think.. but the main reason for the removal is to inspect the timing cover oil seal and cover gasket therefore I won't start this job until I can find a solution to the oil seal installation tool [emoji36] Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

The VM 1014 locking tool can be made out of 10mm mild steel plate. I made a similar locking tool back in 2014 for a TD42 nissan engine. 1st step is to remove starter motor & make a backing plate to bolt across where the starter motor goes. 2nd step is to set the timing case & pulley markers to line up then bolt up the plate & texta mark on the plate where the bottom groove of a flywheel tooth lines up. 3rd step is to drill & slot the backing plate to take a 4,5, or 6mm bolt. 4th step is to make a 10mm mild steel wedge plate that fits into the bottom groove of a flywheel tooth. 5th step is to carefully hold wedge plate in position & texta mark the edge of the wedge plate through the slot in the backing plate. 5th step is to attach the backing plate & wedge plate together. I drilled & tapped a thread into the wedge plate & bolted it to the backing plate then when assembled to the engine I tightened the bolt. Once tightened I removed the assembly welded both sides of the wedge plate to the backing plate.
Cheers

Are you doing any more disassembly? If the sump is coming off you could use a block of wood to stop it turning. Need to go up against a strong part of the block.
A strap wrench on the pulley probably wont work.
When I did it on another engine, I made the flywheel locking device & had it so it engaged 2 teeth.
I have heard of people engaging 4wd top gear & also placing a bar through the uni yoke but I dont recommend. Far too much to get damaged in the drivetrain.