I wont even use any silicon products in the workshop as even the mist settling on the bare metal will screw up any paint work!
I use this lanolin as there was a number of restoration shops already using it because it doesn't affect the paint later on.

So as not to bore you all with multiple post of the painting process, I condensed what has happened so far in case anyone was still interested.



Just catching up on a few photos taken during the painting process.

http://willyshotrod.com/Willys2987.jpg
Starting on the painting using KBS Rustseal kit. https://www.kbs-coatings.com.au/prod...is-coater-kit/ It is a hard urethane coating which can be sprayed, brushed or put on with a roller.

http://willyshotrod.com/Willys2988.jpg
We started on the small things, which numbered over 50, with my wife Lisa doing the painting with a foam brush.

http://willyshotrod.com/Willys2989.jpg
Problem with using the foam brushes was that the paint breaks down the adhesive holding it together so had to switch to a brush made for automotive paints.

http://willyshotrod.com/Willys2990.jpg
Cast and round pieces came up really well.

http://willyshotrod.com/Willys2991.jpg
The front and rear differentials were also painted along with every bracket and suspension piece.

http://willyshotrod.com/Willys2992.jpg
Days were then spent stripping down any paint that was still on the chassis and going over the bare metal parts again with turpentine to remove the old wax and lanolin. Then a strip disc was used to remove any surface rust and then followed by the Aquakleen provided in the kit.

http://willyshotrod.com/Willys2993.jpg
Once everything was done that I could easily do from the topside was time to do the underside.

http://willyshotrod.com/Willys2994.jpg
When I had stripped down the donor Grand Cherokee body, I have made a rotisserie from two engine stands. I made some adaptors so I could easily flip the chassis upside down.

http://willyshotrod.com/Willys2995.jpg
Once everything had been stripped and cleaned, I used the Rustblast phosphoric acid on the whole frame, as had done with everything else already painted.

http://willyshotrod.com/Willys2996.jpg
I found the 50mm/2" foam roller worked really well and can get into tight spaces. Didn't end up using the 100mm/4" rollers at all.

http://willyshotrod.com/Willys2997.jpg
Everything is now painted and also top coated with epoxy from a spray can where direct sunlight can reach.

http://willyshotrod.com/Willys2998.jpg
On the next project I will go to the trouble of setting up a temporary spray booth and spray paint the KBS paint as really impressed with the product. Just would get a better finish and save a lot of time doing it with a gun instead.

http://willyshotrod.com/Willys2999.jpg
Even got a custom clock made from a photo with our truck driving through Garfield by photographer John from Australian Car Events.


https://youtu.be/_ZNjidzDbQ8

https://youtu.be/pk29b6v8Nbk

https://youtu.be/d8u-4uTBKnQ

https://youtu.be/mOrxDyIApFo

Thanks for the update, looking good.

I've used the KBS products before to reline a rusty motorbike tank. Bit of a pain to do - quite a multi step process to get it all good - but came up very well. I'm quite impressed with their products.

Good to hear. I evens resists acetone on a test I did!

http://willyshotrod.com/Willys3000.jpg
Updating the work being done at the Donburn Customs. Everything is being prepared for a high build epoxy.

http://willyshotrod.com/Willys3001.jpg
They did not find anything at all that needed any panel work at all, which is nice to hear.

http://willyshotrod.com/Willys3002.jpg
Before any painting they are using Australian made products especially for the restoration industry. https://www.restofinish.com.au/ These include degreasers, acid treatment and preservers.

http://willyshotrod.com/Willys3003.jpg
Cleaned treated and ready for high build epoxy.

http://willyshotrod.com/Willys3004.jpg
Some old pitting in the bonnet was cleaned out with garnet blasting to make sure everything was super clean.

http://willyshotrod.com/Willys3005.jpg
Can see what was spot blasted.

http://willyshotrod.com/Willys3006.jpg
Good to see they are being super careful with getting everything rust free.

http://willyshotrod.com/Willys3007.jpg
This high build epoxy coating will be blocked and any filler will be applied over it rather than on bare metal to better seal it.

http://willyshotrod.com/Willys3008.jpg
Doors have also been done.

http://willyshotrod.com/Willys3009.jpg
Ready for blocking to see where a skim of filler might be needed.

https://youtu.be/UQb0ZUUqwhg
Assembly begins and almost ends is disaster!

Arrr yes, been is such a situations like this, a few times over the decades of workshop life. Not so much over a bare chassis like this, except for my own car builds, but customer builds a few rather swift and loud verbal interactions were in order to others on the other end of such apparatuses.

Usually ending in high 5'vs and beers or teers scratching a fender inner or something on a mint classic.

To be fair, the 'apprentice' in Jeep Willey HQ balancing the donk was quite controlled, verbal commands precise, whilst the mechanical engineer controlling the lift was quite in control of the gently lowering of the offending out of balance item :)

Team effort = 2 x cases of finest QLD beer :)