4.0L Rear Main Seal Replacement when changing clutch
 

Hi Jeepers,

Planning on replacing the clutch as preventative maintenance around 170K.
I have all the parts to do the rear main seal on the shelf, it's been a minor leak for a few years.

I can see from lots of posts you need to remove the main bearing cap and drift the seal in.
I can also see this looks to be a bit fiddly when people have done it by just dropping the sump.

Question I have, seeing as I've opened everything up, If I remove the flywheel, is it possible to tap the new seal in "flat" parallel with the block, instead of drifting it round from underneath as is done when you only remove the sump.

It seems this drifting round is the part of the repair that is most likely to damage the new seal going in.

If it's not going to make it any easier I might as well just leave the flywheel alone so I don't have to replace the bolts. (I know I might end up having to replace the flywheel, but hopefully catching this early means the convex surface is still good)

Appreciate feedback from someone whose done this on the bench and knows the block.

Ta.

I haven’t done mine, but believe that replacing the RMS same time as new clutch makes sense.

I have done the job in situ and had to only use a drift to start the upper half moving was all that was needed. I could then push it out by hand and then push in the new upper seal half in by hand.
You cannot replace the seal from the rear as it fits in a V groove.

Thanks that was exactly the answer to the question, looks like I'll leave the flywheel on and get oil dripping on my head. Couldn't believe the price of those flywheel bolts either from Rockauto about $100 for a set US.

Dammit !

isn't the RMS on a 4L a split seal just take the sump off? it was on my 96 xj 4L?

Here is a how to I wrote many years ago on doing it.

http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoRearMain.htm

Thanks Gojeep, more pictures are always good.
Good website too, I'll be trying some of your tips on tyre pressures and balancing!