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-   -   Newbie looking to buy WJ/WG (https://www.ausjeepoffroad.com/forum/showthread.php?t=153199)

ShaneWJ 28-06-2018 12:27 PM

Ok thanks for that.

Whats the go with the engine oil in these? Little info available even on oil selectors by castrol ect.

I used the MB ML 270 CDI instead of the jeep and get more hits. Same engine correct?

Anyone used: Castrol VECTON 10W40 Long Drain LS Engine Oil?

Thanks,

JeanLuke 28-06-2018 02:14 PM

I use the Penrite semi-synth HPR Diesel 10. Take a look through the "Everything 2.7 CRD" thread.

Same engine as the ML270 - the OM647.

ShaneWJ 29-06-2018 07:30 PM

Yeah I have looked there. Great resource. Left me with the question of why so little options though.

The ML 270 crd has heaps more options compared to the jeep search.

Fully synthetic more suitable or semi fine?

Thanks

JeanLuke 29-06-2018 07:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ShaneWJ (Post 1636143)
Fully synthetic more suitable or semi fine?

Oooh, that's a can of worms!

Key thing is that it meets the MB spec's. Everything else is opinion. I made a conscious choice to use Penrite throughout (except transfer case) mostly for availability and simplicity. The transfer case leaves little choice - Mobil or Mopar.

ShaneWJ 02-07-2018 05:35 PM

Went and looked at the WG toad. Must say im impressed with the quietness of the motor and performance.

Now I have a few questions, the oil gauge in the instrument cluster, what should it read? some engines are fill between the L and H on a dipstick and some are to the F mark.

Reason I ask as some how the owner had lost the dipstick (I know...) so this is all there was to go off. He had taped up the dipstick tube so oil was not to be regurgitated by the engine (at the least lol). Not sure how hard a new one is to source but obviously very lol.

Secondly, looked to be leaking from the front main seal for some time, oil and sludge on everything distributed by the main pulley/balancer, fresh oil dripping every where....
Cost of replacing and what is involved?

Thirdly, power steering fluid leaking from power steering pump. Cost of replacement?

Black death was present but new seals had been installed apparently and an injector machined? Sealing surface skimmed I take it?

I liked the vehicle otherwise but many red flags.

Thoughts?

Grippy 02-07-2018 06:14 PM

Oil dripping from the pump could be the oring in the end of the hose, or the hose itself, which is cheap from Rock Auto, and easy to fix, unless you do it on my car and it was a pain in the ass, haha

Sent from my SM-G930F using Aussie Jeep Offroad mobile app

Adrian D 02-07-2018 06:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ShaneWJ (Post 1636257)
Went and looked at the WG toad. Must say im impressed with the quietness of the motor and performance.

Now I have a few questions, the oil gauge in the instrument cluster, what should it read? some engines are fill between the L and H on a dipstick and some are to the F mark.

Reason I ask as some how the owner had lost the dipstick (I know...) so this is all there was to go off. He had taped up the dipstick tube so oil was not to be regurgitated by the engine (at the least lol). Not sure how hard a new one is to source but obviously very lol.

Secondly, looked to be leaking from the front main seal for some time, oil and sludge on everything distributed by the main pulley/balancer, fresh oil dripping every where....
Cost of replacing and what is involved?

Thirdly, power steering fluid leaking from power steering pump. Cost of replacement?

Black death was present but new seals had been installed apparently and an injector machined? Sealing surface skimmed I take it?

I liked the vehicle otherwise but many red flags.

Thoughts?

1. The oil gauge in the dash is an oil pressure gauge. More or less useless once they fail. So you NEED a dipstick in order to measure oil level.

2. Doesn't sound complicated but needs a huge breaker bar, possibly a lock tool for the crank and certainly a new bolt.

3. Power steering leak fix depends on the hydraulic hose stops in your area if you want to ditch the factory sealing system forever.

4. Black death residue should've been cleaned up. Inspect injector hold-down bolts, if they appear new, then it should be an indication of responsible work (the bolts should be one-time use).
Look for smoke at idle, it's an indication that 1 or more cylinder has more than one copper washer, in an attempt to prevent black death from appearing again.

If you are set on a WG CRD, you might want to buy the ELM327 adapter first and get the diagnostic software. With the software you can check for codes and injector trim values to atleast get an idea if fuel system work is ahead.


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