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carvesdodo 01-06-2010 09:42 AM


Originally Posted by junglejuice (Post 1081410)
Interesting read, it will be interesting to hear what will be said of the humble 4.0 litre petrol....

heh heh ....

I'm thinking the "humble 4.0l petrol" might survive the blitzkrieg but its cooling system might not. ;)

Good stuff deezelweazel .... keep it coming ..... :mrgreen:

murray 01-06-2010 10:03 AM

i use cat deo in mine

Deezelweazel 01-06-2010 04:22 PM

That's what I thought too, but it's less than 50% (320€ incl. tax)compared with a single liter.
Maybe mil. discount does play a role, too.;)
Trust me, I couldn't afford it otherwise.
My first thought was it might be to thin- and I expected rattle of the hydraulic valve lifters but after checking clearances it is ok- not more noise than usual.
It does help while starting.

Maybe you are going to ask why is he using a thicker oil during the winter? Simple explanation: I try to avoid use during winter. Salt on the road is to aggressive. So it's parked the most time in a garage.
Just trying to cut the corners with "cheaper" oil during storage.

@murray: Isn't cat deo an ACEA E5 oil? Good stuff, must be horrible expensive as all CAT stuff.

But after all oil is not the problem in this engine. The oil circuit can and must be used as an additional cooling aid take take off the heat load of the coolant cuirciut!
Do not remove the built in water/ oil cooler. It isn't a real help to get heat out of the engine bcause the heat of the oil is transferred back to the poor coolant layout.
It does help to warm up the oil during cold start.

Remember first heat law: Heat is always transferred from the hot medium to the cold, never vice versa.

You must grab for every advantage you get:
most people don't know:
A silver radiator surface has only 90% of the heat transfer capability of a black one.
So which one are you going to choose the next time? An alloy radiator?
You are just wasting 10% heat transfer...

You can't afford waste of heat transfer, if you want to drive that Diesel!

Do not replace the stock water pump with trick or high flow units. Just make sure it is in good working condition.
High flow also means a short heat transfer time in the radiator. That results in higher heat preload as the coolant comes back into the engine.
This rule is also transferrable for the gasser. ( By the way: It also consumes a lot of hp!)
The second dangerous thing about it is cavitation. The coolant pump starts to add air bubbles at high speeds. Here we go again- bubbles are big trouble.

You don't believe that?
Get a water pump for the electric drill and attach some clear plastic hoses and start to pump water- 1.try: low speed, 2.try: high speed
ups, were do those bubbles come from during high speed?

Do not decrease the amount of coolant- it is also lubricant for the waterpump!
The coolant circuit does contain a lot of different materials.Copper, brass, iron and alloy- not really an ideal combination.
So make sure to keep the coolant fresh- it does also contain corrosion inhibitors.
You need them!

Flush your coolant system! You need an aggressive acid to get rid of the dirt! I already mentioned it, I got a tablespoon of dirt out of the heater only!! It does work afterwards! It is also a welcomed aid during high load conditions. If the needle climbs into the red zone, turn on your heater- you need every assistance you can get.
Windows can be pulled down, by the way...

Deezelweazel 01-06-2010 04:33 PM

Do not obsruct airflow to the radiator. I know about the cool bars and aux lights in front of the radiator. They are an absolute nono!
Just have a look at the FSM. It is also mentioned in them.
They do not write it for fun!

davesta 01-06-2010 04:39 PM


Originally Posted by Deezelweazel (Post 1081545)
Flush your coolant system! You need an aggressive acid to get rid of the dirt!

What do you think about using white vinegar as a cooling system flush? I've seen it mentioned a couple of times on naxja... (i don't actually own a diesel, just curious in general...)

murray 01-06-2010 07:17 PM

i also use cat elc top stuff

Deezelweazel 01-06-2010 09:33 PM

every sort of vinegar works- you need to leave it the coolant circuit over night. alloy may get a bit dull but that doesn't matter at all.
I used household cleaners with great success like antikal- they contain sulfur acid wich kills a lot of grime.
The heater is copper clean inside now. I let it in the coolant circuit over night-it does not work on the grease slime inside the engine. But drano works good there, hehehe

You just convinced me to use that CAT stuff.
If it works in their engines it will work in our diesels too!
The data sheet has remarkable abilities and it does contain already deionized water.

I tought about Evans waterless coolant, but what to do if you need to refill while travelling?
I just have to find out were to get CAT elc...
CAT engines are designed to give fullpower all day long-so it must be good stuff.

Just found out, it is designed for wet sleeve cylinder liners.
That the absolute right stuff for our engines! Good find, Murray!
Do you work with CAT equipment?

murray 01-06-2010 10:18 PM

i have worke for the west australian cat dealer since 1986
cat elc is the best coolant i have ever seen
seen thermqstat housing on desiel forlifts had it in ther system 5 years still lok brand new
you in germany? zepplin is the cat dealer

Deezelweazel 01-06-2010 11:15 PM

Cool Murray, thank you very much for the info. I bet you know about your job and I won't go cheap here.
It is essential to have the best affordable coolant! No doubt about that. and I'm sure Australia can get a bit sunny!!!

I just replaced my thermostat, it had the worn scratch marks in the wax chamber again. I don't waste my heads for a 9 € thermostat.

It took a lot of scrubbing to getrid of at least the visible dirt inside the engine.
A rifle bore cleaner and several bottle cleaners are good to use for that. Chemicals alone are always difficult. they simply can't replace a good brush.
So a good coolant is very important. And access to a better one is extremly valuable.

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