I do use 2 stroke since 2 years do avoid wear of the IP.

But the the ratio better be 1:200 instead of 200:1! lol

oops my mistake ,but you know what i meant

Reading all the posts about heat related issues I came to the conclusion that most of the Diesel drivers are not aware or don't know about the engine design.

Folks, you are running an engine with cylinder liners!
That does mean if you run coolant with less than a 50% water:50% antifreeze combination you are risking cavitation!
The first step in engine fail.
Corrosion between the engine block and the liner leads to liner movement.
Liner movement leads to gaps in the head gasket.

Replace your coolant! It is a cheap and useful insurance.
Same goes for the already mentioned thermostat and waterpump.
Are you skipping here- expect a really cheap head failure...

I rather pay a fraction of the cost as a maitenance procedure than to replace the heads.

Stop experimenting with selfmade solutions. The factory has tested and provided the specs. Just follow them. the only thing worth to improve is the radiator.
Comparing the radiator volume with other 2.5l engines explains that the Cherokee runs on the last ranks.
Improvement will be a good solution here.

I hope to picking mine up tomorrow with a new water pump and a three core copper radiator. I will let you know if the radiator does help. I will be using the XJ as a tow vehicle for a light camper trailer.

Cheers

Penguin

Cool!
I was seeking for a thump up smilie- but there is none available...

What brand do you use? I would like to collect data about the different radiator sizes,volumes and the way they are made. .
It seems that there are huge differences in made and materials.

- length, height and thickness of the net?
- amount of rows( two, three or more..)?
- brass/ copper, aluminum?
- how many tube connections between the left and right end tank?
- vented gaps in the fins or closed fins?
- turbolators inside the tubes?

It should be easy to find the brand which seems to be most preferrable.

I had the radiator made in a place in Melbourne. We have fitted it with a bit of body work modifications and we have had to alter the shroud slightly. I will see if I can get some data.

I had to tow the Tvan this morning to get a little repair done. On a steep hill near home the temp gauge would normally creep to the 100 mark, even on a cold day. Today it remained on the 95 mark.

I will get some of the technical detail that I can.

When we took the old radiator out may of the cooling vanes just fell off, so I am not sure how efficient it was.

Cheers

Penguin

Did some research today:

-Alloy has a heat transfer capability of 237 W/(mK) and an average heat capacity of 0,9kJ/kgK)
-compare that with copper:
heat transfer capability of 401 W/(mK)and an average heat capacity of 0,38kJ/kgK)

so the transfer capability is nearly twice that high than alloy and heat capacity is less than half.
In real world conditions that is an magnificent advantage. Heat is transfered much quicker and more effective than alloy.

The original brass copper radiatoris 39mm thick, and is a 27 line, including the upper and lower frame line 2 row radiator with 5 fins per 10 millimeter.
Now lets compare that with alloy radiators!

Please posts the dimensions and the make of your alloy radiator as a comparison!