Rear driver window electrical issue
 

I am currently chasing a strange electrical gremlin on my rear driver side window.

It never worked since I bought it and today I wanted to fix it. I removed my window actuator from my V8 since this seemed to be the most common issue. However when I removed the paney I saw that the plug was disconnected. I reconnected the plug and I was able to lower the window but not up again. I checked with a multi meter and indeed I got voltage when I pushed the button down but not when up. I then tried 2 other switches from the V8 with same result. The I thought the plug on the harness might be corroded so I replaced that too. No change. Then I checked if the wires in the rubber boot from the uni body to the door might be cracked but they are not even there. They only feed out from the switch into the actuator. I have constant positive and negative and if I connect the actuator to the permanent positive/ negative I can lower the window and put it back up again when I switch the wires. So the motor works as well. The issue must be between the plug /switch to the plug which feeds the plug to the actuator. I have checked everything but I have no clue what this could be. Again I tried 3 different switches and the one from the V8 definitely worked ....

Any idea what else I could check?

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Try feeding power and ground directly to the motor via the plug to see if the motor works in both directions. If so then use a multi meter to check continuity between the legs of the wiring. You may have a faulty wire in the loom between the switch and the motor. Check each leg individually, not connected so you find the exact location of the fault.

Doug. (Skipperau)


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I had the same problem on my 2.7 crd and it was broken wires in the DRIVERS door between the door and the body. I know it sounds strange but it was the wires that go from the drivers door switch panel that had a broken wire in it.
If the wires in the drivers door are still original it may be cheap insurance to replace them all ,one by one to make it easier to get the correct wire .
What worked for me was cut and solder each wire close to the plug in the flexy rubber and run it back to inside and join inside behind the kick panel.
It can be a pain to do, and it is tempting to only replace what you think is broken, but the other wires will break in time.
I used the most flexible wire I could get my hands on because the original wire is not all that flexible.

Hey Doug, its been a while. I tested that already. The Motor is definitely ok. I connected the wires to the permanent ground and I was able to move the window in both directions. I will do some meter testing on the other side trying to see the difference so that I can actually get this sorted out.

A Broken wire as stated in this post is likely the cause as the circuit operates thru the master switch that way either switch can operate the window motor.

Although your explanation makes sense, I am still not sure if this is a broken wire issue. It was also my thought till I was able to close the window with manual connections. But let me explain with some pictures:

The first 2 pics are the wires coming from the door going into the plug which holds the window switch as on Pic 3 and 4. The solid green is the constant positive and the solid black is the constant negative. Out of the plug are 2 wires going to the actuator as on Pic 5. It's a green wire with white stripes and a Gray wire with white stripes. They are not fed thru the door. I believe these are positive and negative on demand and depending which way you push the switch they are either negative or positive. I had a spare plug connecting to the actuator and if I use the 2 wires and connect them one way to the solid black and green the window goes down. If I simply switch them windows goes up. So the only wires in this process which could be broken are green or black but both seem to be ok. I am not sure what the red wire with orange stripes and the solid grey wire do which also come out of the door. I could not see any voltage attached to them.

I hope this makes sense.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...832e7a92a7.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...293385bb61.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...e309f15858.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...df64c9729f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...3dcbda0b99.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...b7ffdffe15.jpg

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Trust me this problem is a busted wire in the drivers door, it is one of those electrical issues that will do your head in trying to figure it out!!
when it happened to my jeep I managed to get the window operating again by cutting the grey and green wires in the rear door and switching them over so grey went to green and green went to grey(if that makes sense).I was up the bush camping at the time and having the window down and it was raining was pissing me off!!!!
That would allow the rear widow to go up and down but only from the rear door switch, the "master switch" in the drivers door would not operate the window.
It was only after I replaced all the wires in the drivers door that the fault disappeared.
I am willing to bet you a box of VB cans that a busted wire in the drivers door is the fault.
This happened some time ago so I am not totally sure if it was the grey or grey/white and the green or the green/white wires but if a box of beer is at stake I can rip the cover off the door to confirm!!