Transmission Fluid
 

Hi Team

Time to change the transmission fluid again, Did this 100000km ago. The fluid that I purchased then was Mopar 8&9 Speed ATF (MOPAR 68218925GA), and worked great, very smooth through the gears.

I see on Rockauto the fluid number is MOPAR 68218925AB, and the country flags are USA and Canada.
Is there a difference between the two fluids:
MOPAR 68218925GA and MOPAR 68218925AB?

Cheers

Eddie
JGC MY14 Overland 3.0 Diesel

Did some cross referencing and doesn't appear to be............. you want an oil that specifies ZF Lifegard 6/8, thats a must some oils saying okay forJeep are for other boxes so don't use.

Why not just use Penrite ATF BMV or Nulon Full Synthetic Multi-Vehicle Low Viscosity Automatic Transmission Fluid (LVSYNATF) , both are Lifegard 6/8 fluids and easier to source, possibly cheaper and they both certainly work well, my box gets changed every 40K km and hasn't missed a beat using either of them, its had 3 changes so far ... 2 by myself and 1 by tranny shop... I don't believe 100K km changes are a great idea at all for any auto.

Agree drover...more so when towing regularly. It really is a testament to the ZF gearbox that very rarely fails even when severely neglected...as most are.

The BMV has been in use by many for quite a while and remember your only changing half at a time so whatever you choose will be fine but stick to same perhaps. Changing more regularly just makes sense given we don’t really know the quality of the filters in OEM and aftermarket pans going on. If you DIY then you realise the rear solenoids are quite high hence the fluid level setting is critical to get cover on them. I did mine at 72k and 110k (Mainly as had to replace pan leaking at the plastic thread) and it just looks new after towing most of its life). So after two changes I am 75% BMV and the rest old original lifeguard mix.

If you DiY, having the vehicle level is a must and if the full level isn't checked correctly you could be 500ml lower than required, fill box till it dribbles out, replace bung, engine running, wheel up off ground ideally put into rev for 2 sec then into 2nd for the same, run up to 2K rpm then into park and check oil level should just drip out, so let it drain or top up............. when I had the shop do it last time I lifted it off the ground, turned and burned then checked the level. slight drip so was happy, they will get my business again....

Most tranny repairers will shake their heads at these 100K service intervals, the oil may be good for that long but hell it seems to have the same amount of crud in the pan at 40K like the old boxes, cheap insurance to stay under 40K I reckon.. $600 at a Tranny Shop in Toowoomba last time when the sump plug broke, they were good 30 yrs ago and still good, will use them again as I hate tranny changes.

ive had the oil and pan done when i bought my current jeep with only 60k on it.
As mentioned you only get about 4.5 litres out of the 8 litres in there.
Ive always bought the Zf fluid, lifegard8 as I was always concerned about mixing other fluids which might not be good for the auto.
Ive read where Zf say not to mix fluids but it seem alot of people do and the auto’s still seem to run ok.
As Drover says, both the Penrite BVM and Nulon stuff seem to work fine and alot cheaper than the Lifeguard8.

The same sort of warning was given with the W5A580 boxes, must use some Shell stuff on fear of heavenly intervention, trouble was the stuff wasn't here and using the Mopar needed a Mortage, I used Penrite and then some stuff I got from MB Spares in Canberra .......... its the specs that count not the brand name...