New owner of 2006 WH CRD Hi Jeep peoples,
I’m the happy new owner of a 2006 Grand Cherokee 3L CRD. Just purchased for $7500, pretty stoked. Intended use is for towing a caravan. Upgrading from a Suzuki XL-7 that I kitted out for rooftop tent style camping. Realised we want more luxury and a hard floor, so the Suzuki will be sold to make room for Jeep.
In preparation for purchasing a WH GC, I did quite a bit of research. I’m not a car person but I think I did a pretty good job with the inspection. Things I checked:
Jscan: https://i.imgur.com/ZdYnmVv.jpg
It needs a bit of a clean - luckily my partner’s mum just bought a car upholstery cleaner thingy :D My concerns and questions:
Thank you in advance for any advice! Some shots of the vehicle (not yet cleaned): https://i.imgur.com/ezhRyqY.jpg https://i.imgur.com/uFqg7fg.jpg https://i.imgur.com/r8GGfte.jpg https://i.imgur.com/Qf9wNJ3.jpg https://i.imgur.com/0eY2Ux3.jpg https://i.imgur.com/nmXwGpl.jpg |
Congrats on the GC.
Yours sounds very similar to mine. Mine is the 2005/06 navigator Laredo with the CRD. I asked a lot of questions too. That particular GPS cannot be updated anymore. You can fit a newer style in the housing, or just use your phone. I would do the swirl motor mod, but also look at your elephant hose and perhaps a catch can. I believe our year CRD’s do not have a DPF. Thank god! I went to a mates house today and his newish Triton DPF is setting him back thousands. They are just a pain in the arse. I got 6 Bosch glow plugs too. The controller can also play up, but Clarky put me on to a YouTube vid that fixes it for free. ABS sensors can play up, but Rockauto has them for $20. Your lucky with your diff etc. I paid 8k for mine, but have to do the diff bushes and front drive shaft CV. Wonder if your tyres are different size? This is adjustable in JScan apparently, as well as turning off TPMS. Clarky is the resident expert on our model, and has set me straight on a few things. Worth reading my thread about buying my daughter a Grand Cherokee. Mentions a lot of useful info for a first time owner. Yours looks to be a beauty...good luck! Cheers, |
Thanks Alex, yes I read through your thread while investigating this mode of keep, lots of great info in there, thanks!
I’ll get the resistor after Xmas from Jaycar, maybe that’ll sort the lightning bolt. Came on again just now, hmm. Turned off engine and back on - off now. Hmm. A catch can is planned forgot to mention that. That’s one of the definitely-gonna-do-ASAP things. I’ll look at the elephant hose and see if any leaks at the seal. Haven’t checked if it’s the orange one yet. Thanks for answering my questions and the advice. I’ve just given the beast a thorough clean inside and out. Looking great. |
Yep the tire size was wrong. Fixed in JScan, sweet thanks!
I just checked the elephant hose. Has orange seal. There is a bit of oil under it, like a fine layer of gloss kinda. I see where to do the resistor mod now, I’ll get on that ASAP. Any way to be sure about the DPF? Is it visible somewhere? I thought it was mandatory but didn’t look too deep. My partner drove the jeep home while I drove something else. She liked it. I think she’s a keeper. The jeep I mean :D |
No DPF
Piss off the orange seal and fit the silicon hose mod. Your lightning bolt is probably the Turbo Actuator (gut feeling) they can be rebuilt or replaced (don't get the Chinese copy) Clear all the codes and take it for a run down the HWY in 4th gear, get it nice and hot, drive it like you stole it! These engines are meant to run hot (just under 100°C), baby them and they gum up. Clean quality oil and frequent oil changes is the key to longevity with the om642 engine. Change oil every 10,000 or less. You can run full zinc with no DPF. Drop the oil pan and replace the filter, measure the oil drained and put the same back in. Easiest way without a dip stick. |
Haha thanks Clarky. So wait is the elephant hose mod a cheaper equivalent to installing a catch can? If I understand correctly the elephant hose mod can result in some fumes entering the interior of the vehicle, but a catch can routes the exhaust back into the engine. Is that right? sorry, I am a total novice when it comes to cars, but enjoy getting my hands dirty and technical.
I see a post from a bloke in Melbourne who repairs the actuators, I've emailed him to enquire. My plan is to do the swirl motor bypass + catch can, then see how things run. If lightning bolt persists and especially if I get limp mode, then look more seriously at the turbo actuator. Reasonable plan? |
The elephant hose is a common name of the turbo intake pipe, there is my (stolen) mod in the how to page that eliminates any possible leak onto the swirl motor (the cause of the swirl motor failure).
Their is also an old USA mod known as the Elephant Hose Mod that rout's the crank case vapor's out of the engine, under the jeep to vent to the environment. I don't recommend this mod. If you want to eliminate most of the oil vapor from the intake use a catch can. place it between the crank case valve and the intake hose, in theory it will trap and condense the oil vapor back into a liquid preventing it from entering the intake manifold. You will need to empty the captured oil in the catch can on a regular basis, how often depends on your engine as some require more frequent draining then others. On a side note a catch can has no effect on exhaust vapor, the EGR valve controls exhaust fumes entering the intake and it's the combination of oil vapor and exhaust from the EGR that gum up the intake. Just for reference I still have the original (not bypassed) swirl motor and no catch can at 296,000km. (Touch Wood). |
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