Wh driveshaft issue after lift
 

Hey all, put a 2 inch spacer lift in my father in laws crd grand, drove fine for a few weeks he went on a long trip interstate and did some light off-roading, and the front right hand side started making a slight grinding sound at low speeds, the mechanic is claiming the lift has flogged the driveshaft out,the angle they are on, are there driveshafts available to suit the lift or is there a way to improve the angle

I'll follow this. I have a 2" lift in my WH, no probs in 30,000 km. I've heard aftermarket unis don't have the articulation of OEM ones, so this is something that may have affected yours.

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The other side seems fine, he hasn't got a wheel alignment since lifting it, I'm hoping that may be part of the issue or it was just an old shaft that needed replacing anyway

The best drive shafts are genuine 8 ball units.6 ball units are rubbish and do not articulate as well.2 inch lift will not flog out the genuine units,unless huge ks or water / dust has got into them

I can also vouch the stock shafts are far superior than aftermarket ones. I tried a set from Repco and a set from Autobarn, both bound up at the slightest bit of bonnet-rise (I.E torque-rise?). The aftermarket supposed factory-spec shafts are definitely misleading, they are not.

Is it possible your CVs aren't factory ones?

I ended up buying a whole second jeep to salvage the shafts from and although they are 300,000km old they are fine. But when I do my tax return this year I am probably going to put these in as they seem to be the only aftermarket shafts not made cheap from you know where. Also, this is from the US where our WH is the same as their WK in the year range https://www.rcvperformance.com/ultim...ferential.html

Front hubs can cause this type of noise as well and they are easy and cheap to replace.

Personally I would pull the suspected shaft and if nothing obvious I would regrease it and refit. Avoid aftermarket shafts unless you can afford RCV's at $2,295.95usd.
https://www.rcvperformance.com/axles...-axle-set.html

And check the T/C CV for a split boot.

Last of all I would check the front diff bushes, when they fail the diff moves around and causes all sorts of knocks and grinds.