Engine difference between XJ 95 & 96
 

Does anyone know the difference between the 4.0L engines of XJ models 1995 & 1996. I need new gaskets and strangely the non-genuine books only list them for 1995. Some saleman assume they are different but noone can tell me for sure. If Im looking to by a reconditioned motor they cover Jeep Cherokee/ Grand Cherokee/ Wrangler 92-01 Factory Reconditioned 4.0LT 6Cyl Long motor Cost $2800 #AMJ100. Also my workshop manual seems to cover all motors and doesnt distinguish a differtence. This seems to mean that the one motor fits all so why would the rocker & sump gaskets be different?

Reason I need to know is that genuine parts are $285 and non-genuine for XJ95 is $80 (this also includes $17 freight).

there was some upgrades to the engine after 95, differnt inlet manifold for one, I also remember reading something about extra bracing in the engine casting but I would eat my hat if there was any difference in gaskets

yes there have been upgrades all over.. from what ive read. this is the same for the XJ later on i think but this is what ive found...

from wikipedia:

"In 1991, Chrysler Corporation, the new owners of the Jeep franchise, redesigned the RENIX engine control computer and raised the intake ports approximately 1/8" for a better entry radius. Chrysler also enlarged the throttle body and redesigned the intake and exhaust manifolds for more efficiency, and the fuel injectors were once again replaced with higher flowing units. The camshaft profile was also changed. The net result of all these changes was an engine that made 190 hp (142 kW) and 225 ft·lbf (305 N·m) of torque. Thus the 4.0L H.O. (High Output) was born. The new cam profile combined with altered computer programming eliminated the need for an EGR valve and knock sensor, but make the engine more sensitive to alterations, especially where emissions are concerned.

The 4.0 was kept the same until the 1995 model year when small changes were made to the cylinder head. In 1996, the engine block was redesigned, and a new strengthend unit was then used. The new block made use of more webbing cast into the block, and a stud girdle for added rigidity of the crankshaft main bearings. The cylinder head was also again changed around 1998 to a lower flowing, but more emissions friendly, design."

Thanks AussieRCbasher, Thats an answer worth paying for. I have 2 threads on a similar topic and from advice might stop whinging and pay for the right gaskets.

no problems.. i was also told to just use ultra grey silicone and it would be fine.. i havnt treid it yet as it doesnt leak enough to bother me.. but ill be trying that b4 i go out and buy a gasket..

Interesting idea. I went and had a look and bought some gasket silastic (dow corning) good for 200deg. I will give it a go this weekend as the auto salesman gave it a good rap. Apart from being a bugger to clean off next time has anyone out there had a bad experience as it saves me $72 on original and I dont like cheap cork ones.

Warning, Warning, Warning, Warning, Warning, Warning, Warning

Replacing your rocker cover gasket is not a job for silastic - unless you like cleaning the crap off for 40 minutes while cursing yourself for trying to save a $$. First problem was that its fiddly to get the sealant at the rear as rockers, cables and pipes are all in the way. second issue is the rocker cover bolt holes have rubber grommets that increase the gap on the mating surface so you need lots more to cover this. Finally I had no confidence in the seal so didnt even bother testing it.