Quote:
Originally Posted by Joelzo
Who said they're 8mm ?
These have 14x1.5mm studs, bigger than standard jeep 1/2" studs. The hex bolts are 1/2"
Not sure what you mean by the wheel not being central to the hub?
Also the 2 pieces are not only bolted together with 6 x 12mm bolts but also have a machined lip on the back to centre it and also share the load.
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My bad, they are 12 mm and they are tapered head and torqued to half the torque the wheel studs are torqued to and take all the load of the trailer/vehicle while being threaded into 33mm of ally????
Seriously, its your funeral, or the person who cops 35kg of wheel through their windscreen (which happened on the Mitchel fwy in Perth a few years ago)but to answer your questions....
My list of problems...
First, the inner wheel nuts that secure the first ring to the hub are now not visible, that is actually the major illegal factor. You cannot walk past the hub and see a missing wheel nut or snapped stud, you cannot walk around and throw a wheel brace onto them to give them a quick check. Your first indication of a problem is the wheel leaving the vehicle.
Second, the adapter plate on the outside....its 16mm thick, the entire load of the vehicle is on a 16mm thick ally plate? Additionally, this plate is retained by six tapered head hex bolts that you cannot see with the wheel attached. So all the all the first points apply to the second plate, pus this plate is half the thickness and taking all thge load. The taper bolts are a joke, have significantly less clamping force as a true stud and wheel nut, evident by the manufacturers torque of HALF the wheel stud torque...shows how weak these bolts are...AND THEY TAKE ALL THE LOAD?????
Finally the outer plate the external studs are in, it is now not hub centric (look it up if you need to) so the outer wheel is not central to the hub! Then the studs are pressed into 16mm ally plate being retained by the little hex bolts????
So not only is 16mm of plate taking all the dynamic loads of wheel bouncing over undulations, the trailer is smashing down on this same plate....
Notice the manufacturer doesnt state a load rating for the hub? Ask your self why not??
Then with no conscience fit this to a vehicle and travel on an open road, ignorance is bliss.
Goodluck with that, lets hope no one is killed, since you have been warned.
Matt.
How to Install 2-Piece Conversion Adapters
Professional Installation is Highly Recommended
Preparation:
Each 2-piece wheel adapter has two separate pieces. Unscrew the black bolts and you will have the inner piece (w/o studs) and the outer piece (with studs).
Installation:
1) Installing 1st Piece: Put the inner piece adapter to the hub. Use open-end lug nuts with the matching thread size as the hub studs to secure. Make sure the open-end lug nuts sit flush inside the holes of the adapters. If the open-end lug nuts stick out, find low profile ones.
2) Installing 2nd Piece: Put the outer piece adapter to the inner piece, using the provided black bolts.
Torque them to 50-55 ft-lb. (It is highly recommended to use ThreadLocker or Loctite glue or similar products for extra strength and reducing vibration loosening. Apply the gel to the leading 5 to 6 threads of the black bolts before bolting them on)
3) Installing rims: Put the wheels onto the adapters. Use the lug nuts with the same thread size as the adapter studs to secure the rims.
Important Notes:
During installation, inspect the mounting surface between the adapter inner piece and vehicle disc, the inner piece and the outer piece, wheels and the adapter outer piece. Remove any retaining clips and dirt. Make sure each mounting surface is flat and clean.
Make sure the hub studs coming through the inner piece are not sticking against the outer piece of the adapter. If so, cut the hub studs short.
Torque Reference:
Torque recommendation for both the open-end lug nuts and rims’ lug nuts
65 ft-lb for 7/16” studs
80 ft-lb for ½” studs
90 ft-lb for 12mm studs
95 ft-lb for 14mm studs
100 ft-lb for 9/16” studs
Now cross finger and pray nothing lets go!