Quote:
Originally Posted by TOYROX
Nice CJ.
You will have to increase the castor angle to get the steering to self centre.
The old rigs have all but zero castor from factory.
You will need at least 3 degrees up to 5 with 8 inch rims.
You can use caster shims or grind the mounts on the front diff and reweld them after setting the caster.
With the longer springs you can move the chassis bracket forward and end up drilling an extra hole for the mount.
I strongly recommend a steering box brace. To fit one With the TJ box you will need to grind the notch at the box sector shaft spigot to fit it.
Check the seam weld along the bottom of the chassis at the RHF spring mount at the tail end. This regularly splits open and can be hard to see. But will cause flex and affect the steering.
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Thanks, the Crabtree spring mounts pickup the original two bolt holes and add a third threaded hole in the mount to take a third bolt. The assembly brings the front spring mount about an inch forward as you pointed to. The Crabtree part is well made but expensive.
I hear you on the steering brace. There is a lot of flex in the factory mounts.
Despite a lot of effort on the steering I still need to fit the power steering pump (factory mounts) and hoses (custom made by ENZED). I need to remove the radiator to get some clearance. I'm not sure the hydraulic fittings and adaptors are actually going to fit...
I also need to replace the lower steering column bearing.
The lower steering column bearing surprised me. There was no play but it is loose and feels very crunchy. I guess it was masked by the totally shot steering box previously. I done a small,amount of checking and I suspect a holden HQ to WB bearing will be identical. Can anyone confirm this?
I figured out that imgur is a good enough image host, so here are some pic's...
In the driveway
ARB shackles, YJ springs, Crabtree spring hanger and the TJ steering box with dropped pitman arm
The rear suspension... ARB OME YJ, This just bolted in with no mods needed
