Quote:
Originally Posted by Hayesio
You just need a cheap battery box or tray and some way of securing it in the rear (if that's where you want it). Then you need a dual battery isolator (volt sensitive relay) capable of handling the starter current (probably around 400amp for 5 secs). You then need to run heavy gauge cable between the starter battery and the aux battery with the dual bat isolator in the circuit on the bonnet side. The cable needs to handle the starting current, so probably 50mm2. Mine is 70mm2 (diesel). This sizr cable will also give you excellent charge voltage. From the dual batt isolator you need to run a bypass switch into the cabin. This switch will apply an earth signal to the dual bat isolator bypass terminal. You can't fuse the line because they don't make fuses/CB for 400amp, so the cable needs to be very well protected and of SAE grade. I would recommend a AGM battery of the largest capacity you can afford, capable of 4 or 5 hundred CCA.
Charging a dead 110Ah battery at anything less than 80 to 100 amps will just be a pain in the backside...
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Why does the OP need to run cranking power through the isolator? Seems a wasted exercise to me if the battery is going in the boot. To do this he needs 200amp cable right through. IMO pretty hard to make a neat job with big fat cable going all the way... If the OP wants to run a fridge why would he need to jump start his vehicle?? An isolator is there to protect the crank battery anyway... Apologies bloke but I'm a little confused with your method.
