Quote:
Originally Posted by Hanna
Cool - it looks like it is coming along nicely! I have never seen that cable drag thing, does it coil up automatically as your drawer/slide gets pushed back in? I definitely want to install a switch to give the cranking battery a boost if needed too.
I was just planning to run an 120Ah AGM deep cycle battery that I can swap in from my camper trailer (I have 2). I also want to interconnect the other battery in the camper trailer whilst towing as well (it is set up with 6 B&S cable, Anderson plug and circuit breakers already). A lithium battery would be nice of course, but at this stage I will stick with what I have got.
I must say that 12V electrics is not my area of expertise, however I did do a lot of research prior to wiring my camper trailer a few years ago and there was always heated arguments between the Pro DC-DC charger brigade and those that believe they were a waste of money in most applications.
From my understanding, you only NEED a DC-DC charger if you have a situation where you have a large voltage drop from the alternator to the battery you want charged (i.e. undersized cable) OR your vehicle alternator does not put put 14.4V consistently - for instance modern Toyota 4WD's either have temperature-sensitive or time limited maximum outputs that drop alternator output to 13.2V when triggered.
So if you have an alternator that consistently puts out 14.4V (I believe that the CRD alternator does?) and the appropriate cabling (6 B&S) then I understand that I don't need a DC-DC charger? The other point that I read is people say you need to be driving for a long period of time before a DC-DC charger can actually bring a deep cycle battery back up to a high state of charge - longer than for the equivalent direct charge from the alternator.
Have I got this right? I would rather keep things simple, but I also want to make sure I get it right the first time!!
BTW - where did you source your anchor track from? I need ~4 x 950mm lengths and struggling to find a decent option for supply of this requirement on eBay. Most that have 610mm lengths going cheap, don't also have the 305mm lengths as well. I suppose I could always cut it to suit?
|
Yep the cable drag rolls as the drawer closes. I'm mainly using it because I'll have a silicone hose taking water to a hot water thing.
I think you're on the money re; DC-DC charger. Should be fine without one with just AGM batteries and adequate cable. You'll always get more current (and better efficiency.) charging directly from the alternator, so yeah DC-DC charger can take a lot longer.
The 30A from ABR Sidewider is the highest output I've seen for a reasonable cost (there's some better marine ones around, but they're insane money... probably do a water-cooled alternator for the same cost.).
Voltage drop to the van could be an issue, but you can always add a dc-dc charger later if you need. Remember you need to measure the voltage under load (while the batteries are charging.).
I get anchor track and rings from Torpedo7 in NZ (
https://www.torpedo7.co.nz/shop/moto/transport), but they only have 2ft lengths too. Seen longer from suppliers but works out more expensive. So I just use multiple lengths and cut them. Rebate it into the ply so it's flush with the carpet if you can.