Hi Folks, I acquired a replacement rectifier from a local supplier as pretty common. Its a Jaylec 16-8536 and that will come up with RN-67. I note another facebook fellow has done a lot of research work and he ordered RN-59 with exact same specs other than the outer diameter of the heatsink being 3mm less.
I will keep this as an emergency as towing a caravan in the middle of nowhere as a spare so if things go haywire then a side of the road replacement after a battery disconnect to stop the drain on battery if a diode or two has gone direct short AKA drawing a lot of current into the windings to eventually kill the battery. Or if I am smart, will replace it out a few months before heading out on a major trip and keep the old.
These are direct replacement but the alt has to be removed from vehicle so will change the drive belt soon and take that alt out from above as a test teardown (I have the adventure pack with bash plates so will just swear at it from above). The only issue is the alternator's 6 copper poles are fused to the rectifier pack so I need to check this out to see if I can DIY seperate or I will modify the joints and use Jaycar NS3045 Silver solder kit as is a flux and 5 x stronger solder so more closer to plug and play for the emergency.
Happy to ack the facebook user and our alternators are not actually at fault here so even if you get a replacement for the Diesel, then its a like for like I am afraid. The issue appears to be the altenator provides the primary loads and spare capacity to battery. No wonder our batterys last many years. If Jeep did a mod, you would think the current parts would be upgraded. I cannot get 60a diodes for a 12v system so the 50's are the go to for now. The one thing I learn't was go easy on the steering perhaps!
I've attached a table that the facebook user did a lot of real life and hard work to prepare to show you the current loads on our vehicles prior to the full electric steering as very insightful as to the loads it has to deal with. So the upshot is change your battery earlier when 20% supercheap and sell the old to a boatie as lots of live left. Hope this assists and will save a whole alternator being carried around or a tow truck. The one advantage of the that specific solder may (or may not) will become a first point of failure post a current short from a failed diode vs damaging the windings here. Sorta like a fuse perhaps however if soldered properly, the current transfer is equal to crimping anyway.
