Quote:
Originally Posted by rusty577
Thanks JJ
I removed the one standard front bump stop that was left. Im going in today to find a cheap rubber mellet I can cut in two and silcone them onto the coil base plates. Will standard size bump stops be fine for the front? I still plan to run the 253s for a while. Also the standard rear bump stop are in good condition.
I will check where it bottoms out first. The bracket came with the kit and seems to be doing a good job at bringing the diff into line. Is it better to redrill a hole like gojeep?
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You need to make sure that the shocks (if longer than stock) don't bottom out before the bump stops do so you need to make sure that it is all set properly.
As for the panhard you need to make sure that you downtravel is limited BEFORE the panhard's balljoint runs out of travel otherwise it will destroy it's self. Now you are running aftermarket arms the down travel is increases significantly with no mechanical limit being offered by the arms like it is when stock so now you only mechanical limit will be which ever of the following run out of travel first, brake lines, shocks or panhard.....
My advice if you wanna do it properly is to disconnect the panhard and jack up the body with the wheels removed and allow full droop and make sure everything is ok before you go flexing too much, if it is your shocks that are the mechanical down limit then remove the springs and just leave the shocks fitted and then jack up the drivers side till it runs out of travel whilst keeping a close eye on the upper control arm position, when it starts getting close to tranny lines have a look at the length of bumpstop required to prevent contact with some room for just in case and then you will know what length bumpstops you need.
Also while it is at full droop check to see if the panhard will line up with the mounting hole or not, it will become very obvious very quickly if it is going to be a problem or not....