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Old 21-08-2016
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Hey guys, thought I'd add a post for servicing the 545RFE on a JK wrangler CRD, just for a few specific points that I experienced (this post was my reference for my whole day and a fantastic post by original poster)


Firstly, transmission and transfer case bash plates needed to be removed. And then the crossmember had to be removed

Crossmember before removal:


Firstly, make sure the transfer case is jacked up and supported before removing the crossmember (as this supports the transmission directly). I supported the bell housing with a jack as well but probably not needed. There are three nuts to be removed in the middle (size 16 socket). Then either end has two size 18 socket nuts and bolts.

On the drivers side before you can access the bolts holding the crossmember you have to remove the fuel filter plate. Bit tight for space, you can remove the fuel filter as well if you want, I just worked around it.

Finally, the crossmember has an exhaust retainer on the drivers side which needs to be removed.

Then with a bit of rubber mallet convincing, the crossmember should slide out towards passenger side.

Crossmember after removal:


SO, bit of messing about JUST so you can start on servicing the trans. Basically the same procedure as OP said. My only additional points:

1. I needed to jack the transfer case up quite a decent amount to allow transmission pan clearance to be removed (as the exhaust pipe runs under it). Try and do this before you actually start draining the pan (unlike me who ended up with more of a mess than I had hoped for)

2. The retaining screw for the flat filter is DIRECTLY in line with the exhaust. Don't know who the hell comes up with these brilliant ideas. But again the transfer case needs to be jacked up quite high to allow clearance to just sneak the smallest ratchet with torx 25 bit in there to loosen the screw.

3. I changed both flat and screw on filters, anti-drainback valve and oil pump gasket as recommended. To get that pesky gasket out I actually had success using a small pry bar and levering against the side rather than the anti-drainback valve as shown in following picture:


After all that, and giving the pan a good cleanout and removing all the old RTV from the grooves, everything just goes back together. Getting that exhaust retainer back on is fun and also guiding the crossmember back into its correct position may need a couple of hands but other than that pretty straight forward. In the end I needed 7.5 litres of ATF for my fill. Basically started at 5 litres (as per service manual) and added half a litre after every dipstick check until found my sweet spot.

Hope that helps some fellow JK CRD blokes