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Old 25-02-2018
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ajftj  ajftj is offline
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Well - I managed to negotiate with the e-bay supplier to get an 85% refund and keep the leaking rad, all in all despite the quality of the product being highly suspect they handled the issue well and quickly refunded. At least I can keep on the road while I source a replacement.

Bonza - thanks for the detail and the link, pretty good price too ($156) and I may go that way, just want to get a response from Adrad on a price, expecting somewhere between $290 and $360 - Yet to make that decision, depends a bit on finances this month.

Mick666 - I am very glad you posted, as I would probably have gone the same way as you did, I would have tried a replacement part and then started looking at countermeasures - You saved me that time and frustration - thanks.

But.. I did carry on and try to investigate the possibility of electrolysis, just for learning as much as anything else. After it all cooled down I dipped a copper rod in the top of the rad and measured the voltage to ground. I was surprised to find just under 400mV - after all my near zero reading with the ground checks externally.

I ended up disconnecting both sides of the battery and still had the same reading from the coolant - so my radiator was a chemical generator. As the coolant was fairly new I didn't think it could be contaminated - but then again, although I did flush it's still an old rusty engine.

Just as a comparison I got an aluminium can and filled it with new coolant and dipped a copper tube into the coolant. Slightly higher reading 450mV from my completely isolated cell - interesting. Not sure what it proves, but I know there's no point in trying to do anything with the vehicle - maybe a different brand of coolant..

Given I'm going back to plastic / ally it's not really a point i'm going to dwell on as the core will be isolated - but nevertheless interesting!
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2004 TJ, 4.0L, Manual, $2.5K spent in 2.5 years of ownership - hoping $$'s slow down soon!!