2.4 TD VM egr removed

[amlav]

Hi folks ,
Finally decided to get rid of the egr . Instead of blocking up the egr inlet pipe I've just blocked the small rubber pipe coming of the vacum pump to the egr vacum actuator .
As probably many ppl know the 2.4 td egr valve does not have any feedback to the pcm therefore it should not trow in any faults .
Tested it on the weekend and drove it around 400 km's at 110km/h mostly and did not have any issues .
But the best thing that happened is engine temperature was reduced at least 10 degrees .
Previously driving it on 110 km/h for long periods the temp. gauge was creeping up to 100-105 degrees but with egr canceled went up to max 90 .
I have the thermostat removed and this made it possible to see the temp. variations over a wide range of driving conditions .
There was a bit more power available and engine was more responsive .
Just sounded like a healty diesel engine .
My question is that why many ppl prefer to use egr blocking plate on this engine when ( in my opinion ) same results can be achieved by just blocking
up the small ruber pipe that controls the egr vacum actuator ?
BTW did the same thing on my Transit van (again no feedback to pcm) and noticed prety much the same things as with the Jeep but as a bonus got no more heavy smoke when accelerating .

Cheers,
Andrei

[layback40]

What you have done will work if you have a good EGR. Most leak.
The backing plate that people install is on the exhaust side of the EGR. It stops the exhaust.
My 98 had an EGR failure with parts of the EGR breaking off & going through the engine.
You need to put a blank plate between the EGR & the inlet. I used the lid of a tin can cut to shape. A bit of silicone on either side & bolt it back on. This makes sure that no bits of metal out of the EGR get into the engine inlet. The seat in the EGR is very hard metal & bits can crack off.

[amlav]

Yes , you're right Layback40 , EGR valve can be stuck partially open due to gunk buildup . About a year ago changed the vacum actuator and had a look at valve seat and seemed to be nice and shiny all around .
Never the less I'll more likely install a blanking plate know that you said that you had EGR failure (just to be safe..). Thank's for that .
Forgot to mention that fuel usage seemed to be better too but I'm raped about the temperature drop , maybe I'll reinstall the thermostat soon .
Cheers,
Andrei

[layback40]

Thermostat removed is not a good idea. its a 2 way thermostat ~ not like some other cars. When its cold it has the connection at the back of the thermostat open so coolant recirculates around the engine & gives even warm up. When the engine is up to temp the main opening in the thermostat opens & the recirc closes so that hot coolant goes to the radiator. If you remove the thermostat you get mixed flow, some hot recirculated & some going to the radiator. put the correct thermostat in & you will see quicker warm up & better temp control.

[amlav]

Thank's for your info .
Always wandered why the thermostat has a sort of back to back setup.
Always learn something ... Removed it because it got stuck open and did not know why . I've thought better check it out before some bits and pieces will float inside the engine and damage the water pump or block passages . Lucky me it was a small ceramic bit that broke of the thermostat and got stuck in beetwen thermostat valve and seat .
Had it without thermostat for at least one year but it had the same tendency to overheat if driven at 110km/h for long periods (mind you I've installed 2 extra electric fans , raised the back of the bonnet too ,flushed ...and all other things for not much gain).
Removal of the EGR it seemed to reduce the temperature the most.
Have to wait until I'll tow the boat behind it to see how it will heat up.
Thermostat is definetly on the shopping list . I know it helps to bring the engine up to normal runing temperature quicker .
Cheers ,
Andrei