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Old 17-07-2018
LeftField88  LeftField88 is offline
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Hi guys,
So I've honed in on a '06 Jeep Cherokee KJ, Auto Diesel, 247k km. It's currently at a dealer that's asking for $7990 drive away, and I had an independent mechanic give it a comprehensive check for me.
The read came up with some issues- lvl 3 Steering Angle Sensor, lvl 4 Transmission Control Module and lvl 1 Powertrain Control Module. Only other issues identified was that coolant needs to be put in, the back tires and brake pads are at 30% and there is some rust bubbles by one of the rear brake lights.
The dealer is waiting on sending it to get the RWC for me to tell him what the mechanic found so he can get it fixed in the one go, and also told me there's a 1 year warranty on issues that pop up, which I don't intend to rely on.
Is it a good idea to get the car? My previous experience with my Jeep Wrangler has made me biased towards them, added with this one's tow rating of 2800 (tow bar rated at 3000) so it would be easy for me to make the wrong call.
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Old 17-07-2018
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skipperau  skipperau is offline
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Default Purchasing advice

Well I have recently bought an 05 KJ diesel with 196K on the clock wth very few issues other than the locating bushes on the steering rack need replacing for $6800, but that was privately so no warranty.

My experience so far is that the KJ is a great thing, I have 2 WG’s and bought it for my wife and it performs well, and is easy to drive.

So, it comes down to trust and relative value, do you trust the dealer to actually fix the issues or will they just clear the codes and bodge the other bits up just for a sale?

I’d be thinking that around 7-7500 with everything fixed properly would be the go.


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Last edited by skipperau; 17-07-2018 at 02:33 PM.
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Old 17-07-2018
LeftField88  LeftField88 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skipperau View Post
So, it comes down to trust and relative value, do you trust the dealer to actually fix the issues or will they just clear the codes and bodge the other bits up just for a sale?

I’d be thinking that around 7-7500 with everything fixed properly would be the go.

I don't really trust anyone selling anything. The mechanic advised that I get the engine light written into the warranty, but at the end of the day a signed piece of paper is poor protection. I'd be willing to risk them clearing the diagnostic alert if the possible repair wasn't too costly, but I don't know if repairs from those codes are something that costs a lot.

This is the problem with buying cars, it always seems like a risk.
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Old 18-07-2018
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skipperau  skipperau is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LeftField88 View Post
I don't really trust anyone selling anything. The mechanic advised that I get the engine light written into the warranty, but at the end of the day a signed piece of paper is poor protection. I'd be willing to risk them clearing the diagnostic alert if the possible repair wasn't too costly, but I don't know if repairs from those codes are something that costs a lot.



This is the problem with buying cars, it always seems like a risk.


If you had the actual codes we could possibly give you an idea of what to expect.


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Old 18-07-2018
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All I got from the mechanic was a picture of his Maxidiag Elite showing what came up with an error and what level it was, no codes. I did get the levels wrong above- the SAS was lvl1 and the TCM was also lvl1, but Powertrain Control Module was lvl 4.
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Old 18-07-2018
jaffazoom  jaffazoom is offline
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Default kj

Just bought an 05 Kj CRD auto with 155,00K on it for $5500 privately.
Got my brother to have a quick look as it was interstate. very tidy old bloke had it, looks like its never been off road. Flew down and got my brother to pick me up at airport and it had thrown the engine light on, lucky I took my obd adapter with me P0700 generic transmission code and P2760 MS SOLENOID CIRCUIT
Car was shifting fine and I reset the error codes.
Drove the car 700klm's to mums in Brissy then 250k's home next day.
A couple of Klm's down the road from mums it went into transmission limp mode (no 4 or 5th gears and no overdrive).
Couldn't reset the fault so drove most of the way home the back way at 80km/h, near home pull over for a pee and reset the code and it cleared. Spent the afternoon looking up the codes and found a piece of paper in the owners manual with those codes from 2014.
I'm pretty sure the bloke new this,
SO don't trust anyone (I,m looking at $400 in parts if it is the solenoid pack, hoping being slight over filled might do it). I also need to do upper and lower ball joints and the suspension is well sagged, so I'll end up throwing a couple of grand at it to get it back to like newish.
Sorry for the long rant
Also search the vin number on jeep web sight to see if it has any of the recall issues looked at. A full proper service history is essential

Last edited by jaffazoom; 18-07-2018 at 01:25 PM.
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Old 18-07-2018
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All the OBDII codes are in a sticky at the top of this KJ section, Or Click on my signature "Tales of Interest" and it will take you there.

It also shows you the key trick, that can show you the codes flashing up on the odometer, but these are all main body controller codes, certain TCM codes won't show.

A dud battery can also throw codes due to brown outs.

To the OP, if the car is throwing a lot of codes and some being Transmission, at the price 7700, I think maybe it's a little high. And even if you get something in the contract about the current errors, I don't know, with out seeing the vehicle, it's hard to say. I don't know what is meant by a lvl 1 or lvl4 error, I'm thinking 1 is not that bad and 4 is not very good??? But no authority on it.

I agree with service history, up to date service book is a good start.
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