Quadra-Drive Diff Oil; I'm so confused!

Arrrhh, I'm just going around in circles reading manual and forums. So much conflicting information out there and I'm now totally lost.

Some people say you don't need the friction modifier if you want maximum off-road traction; is this true? I want maximum traction.

Some say after-market, some say Mopar only; the previous owner gave me a couple full bottles of the Mopar NV247 fluid.

1. What oil does the front diff (Dana 30) with Vari-Lok need and does it need to friction modifier?
2. What oil does the rear diff (Dana 44) with Vari-Lok need and does it need to friction modifier?
3. What oil does the centre diff/transfer case (NV247) with Vari-Lok need and does it need to friction modifier?

Any help would be super appreciated!

[Shane001]

I used Redline 75W140 GL-5 Gear Oil in the front diff (and will use in the rear diff), nothing else added.

For the transfer case either use;
Mopart Transfer Case Lubricant P/N 05016796AA
or
Mobil 424 hydraulic tractor fluid available from 7 Eleven.

[Siggers]

Friction modifier is a fancy way of saying limited slip oil - basically, you can use lsd fluid and the diffs will slip a little more before they bite in, or just go open diff oil, I'm running Penrite pro gear in my front, haven't done the back yet, as I have other things to do at the same time and I'll probably drop that in too. My transfer case I run mobil 424 fluid, it is the mopar oil, just different bottle, and you can get it from a Mobil or 7/11 using Mobil fuel.

From memory the weights were same back and front, around 80-140w. Yep mine is the Penrite pro gear 80-140w.

However if you want those diffs working hard, drop in some 80-140w open diff oil, as most brands will suggest lsd oil due to Jeep changing oil type as mums driving to school complained about tire chirp

[fester]

Do NOT ever put friction modifier in the transfer case and the Mobil 424 is significantly cheaper than the Mopar stuff and heaps of people running it without drama. Although some of the" factory only fluids" guys will try and suggest otherwise.

LSD oil for diffs doesn't give you any ability to fine tune whereas using the Mopar friction modifier allows you to add as little or much as you want depending on what driving characteristics you want or can tolerate.

I've always wondered if the georotor in the diffs is the same as the one in the transfer case and if so can the Mobil fluid be used in the lot. Maybe it can't handle the extra load of meshing gears. Not trying to confuse just always wondered given it is obviously strong enough for tractor fluid couplings.

Thanks guys! That sort of clears things up.

Reading the Reline website, they make a 75W140 NS GL-5 and 75W140 GL-5; the difference being the 75W140 NS GL-5 doesn't have any friction mod added. So I'm guessing that would be the better option?

These are what I've been looking at:
Redline 75W140 NS GL-5 - http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=39&pcid=4
Redline 75W140 GL-5 - http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=134&pcid=4
Penrite PRO GEAR 80W-140 - http://www.penriteoil.com.au/product...d_products=377

I want my diffs working to their maximum and I love the car park chirp; lets you know your diffs are working.

As for the transfer case, I'll use the genuine Mophar NV247 oil the previous owner gave me. He gave me 2 1/2 bottles and from what I've been reading, liquid gold would be cheaper.

Edit: I'm leaning towards the Penrite PRO GEAR 80W-140 simply because Supercheap stock it, Redline looks like eBay only.

[el_cid26]

I just went with mineral 80w-140 for my front diff. Plan to use it in the rear also.

So hard to find fully synthetic oil with no friction modifier. Mobil make some but the local distributor sells it in 20L for $330 lol. Group buy anyone?

Can't imagine synthetic oil being critical for the diff, also found quite a few in the states running mineral with no reported failures.

I'm wary about using correct fluids so I dont eat out seals etc but I question the need for high quality oils, especially if you dont hold onto your cars for a decade or more.

My WJ only cost 3 grand and I wont spend more than it's value in oils lol, so take my statements with a grain of salt.

[vk2jdh]

Originally Posted by MattWGV8

I want my diffs working to their maximum and I love the car park chirp; lets you know your diffs are working.

y.

The issue of excessive 'chatter' may lead to premature clutch pack wear.