JK Wrangler clutch self adjust

[humdingerslammer]

So, the JKU manual clutch is playing up....still good for another 65000 km and no burning but at times on start up, pedal to floor before biting; other times pedal high and biting (normal). After a while the pedal self adjusts to normal feel and play and bite.

I think there is a problem with the self adjusting side of things.

To fix, is this a big issue? Does the clutch need to be pulled apart or can it be adjusted from outside without a major pull down and major dollars. Anyone please.

[TR Laredo]

I'd be checking for leaks on the clutch hydraulics as well as fluid color change - black fluid = rubber particles (seals) breaking down.

Cheers

[humdingerslammer]

Originally Posted by TR Laredo

I'd be checking for leaks on the clutch hydraulics as well as fluid color change - black fluid = rubber particles (seals) breaking down.

Cheers

Thanks. Will do. It feels like air in system (like with air in brake lines) so will check lines etc and do a bleed and see what happens.I am wondering if there is some mud/dust etc that got in while tripping up north so will also give it all a wash out as far as I can.

[TR Laredo]

Had a similar problem to yours back in the late 80's. Clutch pedal would occasionally go straight to the floor so had to bring it back up with my foot then tap the pedal a couple of times for it to work properly. Turned out the clutch master cylinder had a worn internal seal (reservoir supply non return seal - supposed to seal off the reservoir whenever the pedal was depressed) that allowed fluid to return to the reservoir instead of operating the slave cylinder.

Cheers

[humdingerslammer]

Originally Posted by TR Laredo

Had a similar problem to yours back in the late 80's. Clutch pedal would occasionally go straight to the floor so had to bring it back up with my foot then tap the pedal a couple of times for it to work properly. Turned out the clutch master cylinder had a worn internal seal (reservoir supply non return seal - supposed to seal off the reservoir whenever the pedal was depressed) that allowed fluid to return to the reservoir instead of operating the slave cylinder.

Cheers

OK I will keep that in mind...


Anyway.... had a look & decided to change out the clutch master cylinder. Could get x1 from Jeep dealer (only one in Australia) for $357.00.

I have ordered x2 from Rockauto for $254 incl postage and GST and should have in a couple of weeks.

Obviously Jeep dealers haven't learned!

[Kiteman]

Originally Posted by humdingerslammer

OK I will keep that in mind...


Anyway.... had a look & decided to change out the clutch master cylinder. Could get x1 from Jeep dealer (only one in Australia) for $357.00.

I have ordered x2 from Rockauto for $254 incl postage and GST and should have in a couple of weeks.

Obviously Jeep dealers haven't learned!

Did you get the Dorman aftermarket one?.. I did mine at 220k - Dorman Pt No. CS650159 (OEM-52060133AD)

[humdingerslammer]

Originally Posted by Kiteman

Did you get the Dorman aftermarket one?.. I did mine at 220k - Dorman Pt No. CS650159 (OEM-52060133AD)

I bought the LUC (LUC603) brand... there were several other brand alternatives. OEM part # 52060132 AD (or AE or AC). I checked this part # against Quadratec and was the same...

Your #52060133AD is for the clutch SLAVE cylinder which is different than the clutch MASTER cylinder (part # 52060132 AD (or AE or AC)). The difference is in the last digit.

I have already changed the SLAVE cylinder 3 times... they dont seem to last long.