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10-06-2022
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AJOR Gold
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Perth
Posts: 1,465 What Jeep do I drive?: XJ
Likes: 1,064
Liked 1,080 Times in 692 Posts
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Both our CRD WH’s have been running pretty good for a long time.. then I got hit with a few things at once.
Airbag light came on intermittently. Checked codes and it’s squib comms error.
Probably means the clock spring in steering wheel playing up. I’ll have to pull it all apart and check connections.
I used JScan to run live diagnostic on the two squib circuits and the ohms are darting around on squib 2. Should be a steady 3 ohms.
Next problem.. car felt like it was missing. It was really jolting and slowing down. I thought it was dirty fuel, but then I saw the skid light flicker. I knew then it was a sensor in the brakes probably failing. No codes came up for a few days but then she gave a big jolt and all the ABS and Service 4WD lights came up. Bingo, checked codes and JScan saves the day again. Left front wheel sensor. Took me half an hour to swap in a new spare and she drove like a dream again.
Cheers..
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'95 XJ I6 4.0 AW4 NP242,
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10-08-2022
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AJOR Gold
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Perth
Posts: 1,465 What Jeep do I drive?: XJ
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Liked 1,080 Times in 692 Posts
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Daughters car still running well, but I have to go out and drain her catch can, as it’s over full and dripping oil on my drive again.
I’ve decided to sell mine. The CV on the front drive shaft has gone again, so I’ve got another brand one coming from Rockauto.
I have to fix the clock spring or replace it as airbag light still on.
Finding it hard to keep 4 cars on the road, so something has to give.
Going to buy a Royal Enfield motorcycle to get around on.
Anyone have a link to clock springs that are cheap, but work OK.
Cheers,
__________________
'95 XJ I6 4.0 AW4 NP242,
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11-08-2022
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AJOR Gold
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Perth
Posts: 1,465 What Jeep do I drive?: XJ
Likes: 1,064
Liked 1,080 Times in 692 Posts
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Hey FarWest,
Looking at the Signals 350, which is a kind off retro new model.
I'm thinking a out 8k for my 2010.
I recon it could still do with some work though.
Injectors need doing at some stage.
Cheers,
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'95 XJ I6 4.0 AW4 NP242,
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27-08-2022
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AJOR Gold
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Perth
Posts: 1,465 What Jeep do I drive?: XJ
Likes: 1,064
Liked 1,080 Times in 692 Posts
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Daughter was complaining that her front brakes were squealing and rear brakes making a "funny noise".
I went out this Saturday morning to investigate. Rear pads worn down to steel and one of the rotors stuffed. Fronts almost worn out.
A quick trip to Napa and grabbed a rear rotor and a couple of sets of front and rear pads.
All fitted up nicely and even managed to rotate her tyres, top the oil up and do some other minor maintenance. She had been out bush bashing and some how ripped the side step from its mounts. It was still sitting there on top of all the mounts, but the nuts had pulled through. Luckily it didn't end up coming off along a freeway or something. Spent a bit of time straightening it all up and rebolting it all.
OK, on to my 2010. The rear CV on front drive shaft was stuffed. I only replaced it a while ago, but this one was cracked right through on both sides. Bolted the new one in from Rockauto and all good again.
The clock spring has been giving me grief. Airbag light remains on now. I put another clock spring in from another Jeep. I checked they were compatible and it fitted perfectly and had the angle sensor etc.. However, the squib B circuit was open on this one as well.
A good way to check the circuits is to put a 3.3 Ohm resistor across the pins on the black and yellow plugs. These plugs normally connect to your airbag and the system is constantly sending small signals through the clock spring and to the airbags to check everything is fine. If you go over 8-10 Ohms, the system will report a fault and throw your airbag light on.
So, you need something like JScan. Go into the airbag section and select the Squib pids. You can then see what resistance the circuits are reading. I could see squib A was fine with a reading of around 3 - 4 ohms. However, the quib B circuit was playing up and rarely went under 8-9 ohms and mostly stuck at 10 ohms which is apparently open circuit. You can turn the clock spring a few rotations each way and see if the coiled up wiring in the clock spring is giving bad readings. Both my clock springs were acting up when i rotated them.
So... only thing i can do is buy a new one. I've ordered a middle of the road one from Rockauto. Mopar is now over $500, but i got one for $250 with built in angle sensor and warranty. I didn't want one of those Ebay cheapies.. Too risky. Its on its way, so hopefully she will be problem free again.
Cheers,
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'95 XJ I6 4.0 AW4 NP242,
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28-08-2022
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CrawlerStar
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Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: East Gippsland, Vic.
Posts: 489 What Jeep do I drive?: WG
Likes: 394
Liked 73 Times in 65 Posts
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Alex I have replaced these CV joints before as well and I am not that in love with the grease that comes will them. It looks sort of clear not like Castrol LMM. So I am left wondering if this grease is crap and I should use LMM instead,,,just interested to hear your thoughts on the subject of grease for CV joints..
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29-08-2022
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AJOR Gold
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Perth
Posts: 1,465 What Jeep do I drive?: XJ
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Liked 1,080 Times in 692 Posts
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The grease that comes with them is unbranded black stuff. Not sure if it’s any good or not.
I suppose I good bearing grease would be better. Some of mine seemed to of been flung out somewhere, as I saw blobs stuck to the car. That may of been why mine failed.
Cheers,
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'95 XJ I6 4.0 AW4 NP242,
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29-08-2022
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CrawlerStar
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Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Sydney
Posts: 311
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Liked 58 Times in 41 Posts
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What brand was the cv joint that failed?
How old was it?
I assume also from rockauto?
I've got one from rockauto on my bench on my list to replace, the cv still seems to be fine but the boot is split
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2006 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 3.0lt CRD
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