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30-10-2012
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BANNED AGAIN
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: 27°54'S153°12'E
Posts: 3,244 What Jeep do I drive?: CJ
Likes: 40
Liked 22 Times in 14 Posts
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With over 33,000 views tis now a sticky - easier to find
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2000 TJ with stuff
1949 Willy's CJ3A, with Koenig twin-stick dual output PTO - Project 'Farm Jeep'
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31-10-2012
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LokRinger
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Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Victoria
Posts: 6,878
Likes: 792
Liked 1,769 Times in 560 Posts
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Wow, promoted to sticky! Thanks mate.
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31-10-2012
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LokRinger
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Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Victoria
Posts: 6,878
Likes: 792
Liked 1,769 Times in 560 Posts
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Big thanks for the driveshaft information
My shaft measures 900 as well when not fitted. It took a lot of effort to stretch it out to go the extra 40 mm to bolt up for setup.
If the front shaft is shorter on the diesel, then the rear must be longer. Do the CRD's have a different auto or transfercase than the 5.7 that might be a bit shorter?
Interesting on being able to replace the uni's on them as just read a guy that was quoted $1100 in the US to replace his whole shaft as was told they can not be changed. They are not held in by circlips like normal, but have little press tags to stop them moving.
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31-10-2012
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RubiconSlammer
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Camira QLD
Posts: 1,364 What Jeep do I drive?: JK
Likes: 152
Liked 243 Times in 129 Posts
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Rear shaft is longer on the CRD when installed. I dont have my factory one anymore, but I believe the shafts are the same overall length, and just use the extra long slip shaft for the changes. Mine was very hard to get apart due to the vacuum created by the grease on the slip joint.
Yep the unis are staked in. They were machining the flanges to accept inner clipped uni joints. They weren't really happy with it, (i dont know if they even finished doing it) and guys in the states have done it as well, but i wouldn't.
I have some pics somewhere of how they do it, ill throw them up later.
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AAW 4x4 Inc - All American Wheeling -
JKU Dragon
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31-10-2012
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LokRinger
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Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Victoria
Posts: 6,878
Likes: 792
Liked 1,769 Times in 560 Posts
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Pictures would be great thanks Dave. Pity you don't have the old one any more as just doing a full compression would confirm they were the same length.
I'm a bit wary of running it if it is actually shorter as a good friend of mine lost his mate though too short a drive shaft. He was playing in the dunes outside of Robe and got airborne off the top of one. When the suspension dropped down fully, the rear driveshaft fell out and hung down from the diff. When he landed, the driveshaft dug in first and poll vaulted the 4wd over on to its roof and crushing him to death.
So are you running a custom steel one now? Was there a particular reason you couldn't use your old one any more?
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31-10-2012
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RubiconSlammer
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Camira QLD
Posts: 1,364 What Jeep do I drive?: JK
Likes: 152
Liked 243 Times in 129 Posts
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Yep, custom steel with double cardan 1350 and 1410 uni on the diff end. With the new lift (approx 6.5") the angles were hefty. And i was getting worried about sliding over rocks on the aluminum one. I don't think i can break the new one
Full Shaft
Diff flange machined to match
Adaptor to mate cardan to Transfer case.
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AAW 4x4 Inc - All American Wheeling -
JKU Dragon
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31-10-2012
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RubiconSlammer
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Camira QLD
Posts: 1,364 What Jeep do I drive?: JK
Likes: 152
Liked 243 Times in 129 Posts
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Modifying factory shafts to use std unis.
I know of at least a dozen guys in the states that have done this, but they dont wheel too hard either Obviously the shaft had to be balanced after this mod.
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AAW 4x4 Inc - All American Wheeling -
JKU Dragon
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