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  #15  
Old 27-07-2014
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Hanna  Hanna is offline
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It certainly looks a bit low for 2". Definitely more than 1" lower than mine. (I took a photo which I will upload later).

Take some measurements from the centre of the wheel hubs to the lip of the guards all round as that will tell us the story. FYI - mine measures 535mm at the front and 530mm at the back with the IRO 3". I believe this would have sagged a bit over the years, particularly in the rear as I have done quite a bit of towing with my fully-loaded camper trailer. It also has 10mm OME trim packers in the rear.

The IRO springs are made for flex and not for towing/constant load.
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Old 27-07-2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hanna View Post
It certainly looks a bit low for 2". Definitely more than 1" lower than mine. (I took a photo which I will upload later).

Take some measurements from the centre of the wheel hubs to the lip of the guards all round as that will tell us the story. FYI - mine measures 535mm at the front and 530mm at the back with the IRO 3". I believe this would have sagged a bit over the years, particularly in the rear as I have done quite a bit of towing with my fully-loaded camper trailer. It also has 10mm OME trim packers in the rear.

The IRO springs are made for flex and not for towing/constant load.
Mine is 500mm at the front and 495mm at the front, so yours is about 1.5" higher than mine. The reason I turned off the IRO lift is I got the impression the springs were stiff from reading their website. How do you find the ride, and what shocks are you using?
  #17  
Old 27-07-2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Elio_S View Post
Mine is 500mm at the front and 495mm at the front, so yours is about 1.5" higher than mine. The reason I turned off the IRO lift is I got the impression the springs were stiff from reading their website. How do you find the ride, and what shocks are you using?


You don't have any lift as they are pretty well the high country measurements, which we got out here the yanks are usually 25mm lower. Mine has the same measurements and I only fitted the standard springs to it a few years back now, max of 40mm lift which seems to be a good theory but never saw that much.
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  #18  
Old 27-07-2014
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That explains so much more. You would be hard pressed to find any 4WD on the road today with 10+ year old springs that were still sitting at original height, especially ones that were made for comfort in the first place. Your best bet would be to piss off the old springs and the budget boost spacers and get a good set of 2" springs and see how you go.
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  #19  
Old 27-07-2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Elio_S View Post
Mine is 500mm at the front and 495mm at the front, so yours is about 1.5" higher than mine. The reason I turned off the IRO lift is I got the impression the springs were stiff from reading their website. How do you find the ride, and what shocks are you using?
At that height, yours has definitely reached sag central!! I agree with Drover and Fester here, you are effectively running with springs that have sagged by around 1.5" (or more if they're Up-Country spec) and your best bet would be to buy the Dobinson's springs and some good quality shocks which will make you a much happier camper and solve most of your issues with a lot less hassle. If you find that you want to raise it a little more, just cut the 2" budget boost blocks in half and install them to get to 3", but be aware that stuff might start to get expensive, adjustable track bar, double-cardan driveshaft, A-arm spacer, adjustable control arms, bushes, ball joints etc are some of the items that will be on your shopping list.

Whilst doing some research I also found this thread which will helpful if you want to understand more about standard WJ ride heights and lifts. Page 3 is probably the best info contributed by yours truly!

http://www.ausjeepforum.com.au/forum...ad.php?t=66908

What I did find out during this process was that the 3" IRO lift is based on the standard ride height for the WJ's released in the USA. As most Aussie WJ's came with 3/4" taller Up-Country suspension, the 3" IRO lift is actually a 2.25" (57mm) lift in Australia. Hence, if you get a true 2" (50mm) Australian made lift, it will be pretty close to the height of mine as it will be based on Up-Country spec WJ's. Plus, you'll find that the Aussie lift kits will have much firmer springs than the IRO kit, which won't flex as much offroad, but should be much more stable on road. They would also be more suited to towing and/or constant loads. From memory, Dobinson's offer a couple of different spring rates, much the same as OME, King etc.

By the way, here is a couple of photos of mine from today to compare. I am running 245/75 R16 Goodyear Wrangler Duratrac tyres, which are the same diameter as your 245/70 R17, so it should give you a good idea:



How do I find the ride? Wobbly!!

IRO lift springs are many things, but stiff is what they are not. Great for flexing offroad, but on road they are a little too soft for my liking. They make the live axle WJ wallow, float and sway it's way around corners and the steering is a little vague and tends to wander (this may also be due to the alignment/pulling to the left problems I have been battling for a couple of years, but still worth mentioning).

I run Rancho 9000XL adjustable shocks on mine and these help the ride to an extent as I dial them in pretty firm to decrease the wallowy effect. I know it could also be improved by installing air bags in the rear and fitting a HD Addco rear swaybar, but then it starts to defeat the purpose of flexy springs. Overall, it's probably not as bad as I'm making it sound, but it's certainly not confidence-inspiring to drive. I really notice it when I jump into my wife's standard KJ Cherokee with IFS and it feels like it's cornering on rails compared to mine. Plus, my wife doesn't like driving my WJ anymore since I fitted the lift and started having the wandering steering issues (she used to love borrowing it).

For towing, the IRO springs cannot take much load at all. Take a look at this shot I took when I was loaded up on the way to Fraser Island a couple of years back:



(Note: I did have the hitch tongue mounted upside-down here and was also fully-loaded with camping gear, full tanks of both petrol and LPG, jerry cans etc. but you get the picture)

Anyway, I hope this brain dump of info is of some use to you!

Cheers,
Hanna
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  #20  
Old 27-07-2014
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Here's another one showing the "60's dragster" look of my WJ when loaded up for towing.



I do now recall that despite the odd look it was actually very stable towing on this trip. Probably due to the fact that the rear control arms were back at factory angles and therefore there was limited sway or rear-steer effect.
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  #21  
Old 27-07-2014
Elio_S  Elio_S is offline
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Yes I can see a big differance between yours and mine Hanna. The others I have seen around are more like your and that's about what I was hoping for with mine. I doubt that the ride on yours is any worse than mine. It's been pretty wallowy since I've owned it. I service a neighbors standard KJ for them and the ride between their car and mine is like chalk and cheese as you already know. I found that link you mentioned a little earlier and had a good read and learnt the American 3" suspension is pretty much the same as our 2".
This has cleared a whole lot up for me and answered why the hell my sliders were getting so much work. (IRO sliders by the way, have payed for themselves a dozen times over).
Thanks for all the input guys. Now my biggest dilemma will be between choosing the IRO 3" suspension or Dobinsons 40mm springs with Rancho shocks.
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