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  #1396  
Old 04-12-2017
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The finer details, that’s what I love about this build!


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  #1397  
Old 10-12-2017
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This is the harness from the donor I need to add. There is no way the rubber part will squeeze down to the 5mm gap I have between the door and the A pillar, nor do I want such big holes in either side.


My idea is to have a hole only big enough for the round corrugated part to slide in and out of on the A pillar side. By removing the plastic housing the boot ends fitted on, the plugs pass through sideways and the wide part of the boot fits through once rolled up.


I have drilled a hole 14mm-9/16" smaller than the round part of the boot in the A pillar. I made this tool to flare the hole.


The slot fits over the edge of the hole like this.


Then you pull up a little bit at a time and work your way around the hole. The T handle works well making sure the slot is always bottomed out while pulling on it. I used the small mallet to help it around as the flare got over about 45*. Could also hit against the underside of handle to pull the hole level if it sank in at all.


Once nearly there I tapped through the hammer which was the size I wanted in the end. Helped round the hole a bit more too.


It left a 7mm-1/4" flare which will stop the corrugated part of the boot getting caught as it goes in and out while using the door.


Once the flare was finished I was able to pass a holesaw right through and drill out the other side of the A pillar to get the wires and plugs through. So the hole at the start was 29mm-1.1/8". The 10mm-3/8" slot opened up the hole to 43mm-1.11/16", 14mm bigger. I had done a test hole first to see what I would end up with. But the slot needs to be half the depth you want the diametre to increase by, plus about 2.5 times the material thickness.


With the plugs all the way through the A pillar and the wide part of the boot inside it, you can push and pull the boot in and out even on the angles it will see with the door opening and closing without it catching.


Now the door side I don't want to move so I want the final hole size to be the small diameter of the corrugated grooves. I am still going to make a small flare so the edge of the hole doesn't cut through the boot over time. Notice the angled cut along with the other one on top.


The angled cut is so I can start the flare and clear the hinge and the edge of the door. I switch to the other slot once about halfway done flaring.


So this hole was 25mm-1" to start with it ended up at 33mm-1.5/16", 8mm-5/16" bigger. This was with a 5mm-3/16" slot and with a 4mm-5/32" deep flare.


With the big oval part of the boot inside the door and the depth of the flare inside the narrowest part of the boot grooves, it sits there firmly.


A this is how it looks when all in place. Can also just make out one of the plugs in the cavity inside the kick panel area once it has passed right through the A pillar. To remove the door I simply unplug from there and pull the boot through followed by the plugs and only takes a minute or so.
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  #1398  
Old 16-12-2017
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Only a little update.


Doing what I can on the windscreen trim. The windscreen is 220mm-9" wider than stock so each side has to extend half of that. No height change as the whole windscreen frame was lowered instead by sectioning the cowl 50mm-2".


The defrost louver lengthening finished. This is all you will see from the inside of the cab.


Enough airflow to work the defrost from the longer stock louver. The mounting holes were welded up and moved and repunched to be even where needed.


Now the door modifications are completed, I am stripping the doors right down and removing the hinges so I can spray the inside with a zinc coating. I drill a couple of small holes through the inner door skin and into the hinge so I can put them right back in the same spot. Each hinge was drilled differently so I know from where they came. When putting the hinge back, just line up the holes and screw it down.
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  #1399  
Old 15-01-2018
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Played around seeing if I could use the stock door check strap with the bar going into the A pillar instead of the door, to aviod the one piece windows, but just couldn't get it to work that way. So I'm going the same way as many Jeeps have. Going to start by welding this heavier gauge angle inside the door and A pillar where mounts will be fixed.


Angle plug welded into position inside the door. This is just to make sure the screws don't get pulled through should the door be caught by a gust of wind or let go when parked on a side slope!


Ground down the welds and pilot holes drilled.


Bought some stainless steel footman loops and using an old leather belt for mock up.


These a often called Chicago Rivets or Screw Backs. I got nickel plated brass ones with a 8mm-5/16" head diameter. They just screw into themselves making riveting leather easy. Strap can be wrapped around a bar for instance that is already welded into place.

I have got it on back to front to make it easier to work out the length I need to make the strap.


Works really well and this mock up strap will work as a template for when it is time to do upholstery.


I'm actually trying to find another one of these belts that I used to have to make the strap from in the final version. Can't seem to find them anymore so if someone stops one, please let me know. The only belts I can find with Jeep stamped on them now have it only once at the very end with the belt holes too close to use it.
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  #1400  
Old 15-01-2018
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Are you a coach builder by trade Gojeep?
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  #1401  
Old 17-01-2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoobz View Post
Are you a coach builder by trade Gojeep?
No mate but was in the metal industry for a while.
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  #1402  
Old 21-01-2018
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Been nearly 2 1/2 years since I stripped the paint off the grille parts and ran them through the citric acid bath to remove any rust before spraying with lanolin. Glad to see that it didn't rust sitting in the garage in all that time.


I am starting by adding an extra grille slot on each side by using a bigger centre section cut from another grille to do it.


You face little problems like this with the top face not matching up due to the taper.


After welding all except the turned lip on the inside, I will refold the wider part to blend in with the rest. The stake I'm forming it over is some 16mm steel from a towbar tongue and fits inside, so will hammer along its edge.


The blend worked quite well. The lip on the inside was trimmed so it all was the same length.


So this is the first part of the widening as this only added 5" and need a total of 9" to match the extra width of the cab. 2" on each side will be added between the headlight hole and the side of the grille. The slotted area of the grille matches the donor Grand Cherokee radiator core width. The extra 2" each side will have the tanks behind it. Hoping the headlights will still fit!


On the wall above on the left is the original 1948 grille and the one on the right in the 1958 grille. I have been shooting for a blend of the two styles.
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  #1403  
Old 22-01-2018
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always look forward to updates, beautiful work as usual, keep at it
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  #1404  
Old 04-02-2018
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I am going to run the radiator and the huge hydraulic fan, that is controlled by the ECU, from the donor to make sure there are no overheating problems. It only just all fits in the engine bay but would like some more 'service' room to change a belt etc. Been wondering how best to lengthen the engine bay without moving the centreline of the wheels inside the wheel arch. On my 1948 front guards, like these ones above, the front curves and goes straight across to the grille.


On the 1950 and later models it goes ahead of the grille before coming back to the same point. So my idea is to leave the outside of the guard alone and just bring the inside point forward, making a blend of the two styles.


Scribed a line 90* to the outside of the guard where the panel just starts to curve downwards.


Cut along the line and forward along the centre crease line.


Also slit the bottom flange at the bottom of the crease line as well as the panel join so it could be pulled forward.


I didn't pull it right forward until straight as wanted some curve back left as thought it looked better and was a blend of the two styles as well.


Need to extend the inner guard forward I decided I might as well remove the pressing for the shock mount that I no longer need. I started the shaping by just pushing over a T dolly that was a similar radius to the back half of the inner guard. The front half just needs a curve instead so left that alone.


With the inner guard all welded in I could fill the gaps left.


I radiused a compound curve over a steam pipe bend just using a nylon headed mallet.


Some truing up over the ripping tooth.


Bent the crease line up over the edge of the bench to match. I made the patch this big rather than try and weld in two triangular pieces as that would be more welding and coming together at a sharp point would distort badly.


I try to get it the best I can before tacking and welding into place.


So longer one at the rear and stock one at the front.


I think it is subtle enough that most would never pick it yet it gives me 40mm-1.5" more room between the back of the fan and the front of the engine.


I think the longer bonnet to match will help with the proportions of the longer/wider cab as well. The bonnet in the middle to cover the bigger V in the wider grille adds another 40mm-1.5", making the total bonnet 80mm-3.2" longer overall.
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