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  #10  
Old 02-01-2018
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My wife is so over me spending money on my WG it's not funny! I guess this is what happens when you buy an old vehicle cheap, that has not been loved, with >225,000km on the clock.

Anyhow, it's developed a moaning from the front. Initially I thought it was tyre noise (that's what it sounds like) except I've changed nothing to do with tyres or air pressure. I since rotated the tyres - no difference. It started a week or two ago - about 100km of driving. It does not seem to be getting louder, unless I am suffering boiled frog syndrome.

Paying a bit more attention to the noise, it goes completely silent if the steering is anything to the left of centre. Straight ahead or anything to the right, it makes the noise.

I've jacked up both front wheels, grabbed them at 6 & 12 o'clock and could not feel any free-play.

I'm figuring it is the right-side front wheel bearing telling me it is close to retirement. i was planning to leave it until I can definitely feel play in one of the hubs so I 100% know I am replacing the correct one.

I found front hubs at Allied Bearings for $80 each in stock locally or I can get Timken ones from Rock Auto for about $140 by the time I pay freight.

Anybody got any thoughts? Does it sound like the bearings? Is it worth almost double for Timken?


Too right its worth buying the Timken, a much better product. I bought generic last time and had to replace them within 12 months due to bearing rumble.
Replace both at once so you dont end up doing one and then having to do the other soon after as they will be close to the same condition. It definitely sounds consistent with wheel bearing noise.

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  #11  
Old 02-01-2018
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Thanks for the comments.

I have a trip to the beach planned on Friday - about 200km round trip including 30km or so beach driving.

How fast do moaning bearings typically go downhill?

EDIT:
I jacked up the front again and had another rattle of the wheels. Found it! The left one has a tiny amount of free-play in it, as in the top of the tyre can be moved less than 1mm but you can definitely hear a clunk if you put both hands on top if the wheel and rock your body weight back and forwards. I got underneath while somebody else rocked on the wheel and it was not the ball joints.

Last edited by JeanLuke; 02-01-2018 at 06:46 PM.
  #12  
Old 03-01-2018
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How fast do moaning bearings typically go downhill?
One of my rear wheel bearings started to make noise and I drove at least 2000 km after it started to be loud. That doesn't mean yours will fail sooner or later than that though
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  #13  
Old 03-01-2018
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How fast do moaning bearings typically go downhill?
.

I agree with Adrian, In my experience they can last a couple of thousand km before total failure, BUT, with the added stresses of beach or other off-road driving and Id suspect that would shorten exponentially. So Id order them now with the view of replacing them as soon as I got back from the beach.

My opinion only of course.



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Old 03-01-2018
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Thanks for the replies. I ordered the bits last night, along with a 36mm 6-point socket for the axle nut, a 13mm 12-point 1/2" drive socket (my only 13mm 12-point socket is 3/8" drive) and a packet of M4 split pins. I should have it all early next week.

I plan to do the change the weekend after my beach trip. I'll get some penetrating oil into the axle spline, the caliper bolts and the three hub bolts each day for a few days leading up to it, to try to make life easier when I come to doing the work.

I know you'll be disappointed, but after talking to the Minister of Finances I've gone with just one of the yum-cha hubs as a toe in the water. I hope "YMMV" applies here. My thinking is that the hubs are easy enough to replace, so if I need to do it again in a year, I'll go to the Timken one then. If I get more than a couple of years, then that is probably all the life left in the rest of the car anyhow. The hub I have ordered comes with a 12-month warranty and is from a long-standing local bearing company. They were open and honest about it's country of origin.
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Old 03-01-2018
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The hub nut will probably be a bugger to crack. Make sure you do one side at time so you can use the other wheel on the ground and 4wd to help get it cracked.


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Old 03-01-2018
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The hub nut will probably be a bugger to crack. Make sure you do one side at time so you can use the other wheel on the ground and 4wd to help get it cracked.


Jason
Thanks for the heads-up. The wheels I have allow me to pop off the centre and access the nut before I jack it up. I have a breaking bar (and a bit of 1" pipe) that should work.
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  #17  
Old 03-01-2018
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Or once the wheels off and jacked up a bit of pipe wedged between the studs and onto the ground works well to stop it turning and able to crack it loose.

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  #18  
Old 07-01-2018
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I've got the parts now, just awaiting the 36mm 6 point socket.

The beach trip was great. The tide was up a bit (misread the time) so I needed to drive 10-15km on soft sand. The old Jeep didn't even blink at the challenge, other than running at a mildly higher temperature.

The dodgy hub doesn't seem to be getting any worse.

Next weekend's job - new left front hub. My biggest concerns are the axle binding in the old hub and the hub being seized into the knuckle. I'll figure it out if needed. In the past (pulling out rear non-Jeep axles) I've put the wheel nuts on just a few threads and used the drum/disc as a slide hammer against them. Worked every time. I guess with the front hub there is room to flog it from behind if needed. I have a large rubber mallet that is useful for not stuffing ball joints.

I've got copper anti seize at the ready to make it easier next time, since I have taken the calculated risk with a cheap hub.
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