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  #10  
Old 03-03-2018
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Well I jumped in and cleaning my TB today... what a filthy mess it was, had been suggested to give cleaning it a shot to chase better fuel economy and its not like it cost me anything! I used a old tee shirt with alcohol on it and rubbed it to clean it up as I could, unfortunately the thing was so caked up there were some areas where I had to use a old credit card to get the caked nastyness off. She was far from perfect by the time I finished but the machined surfaces were clean and that's what I was aiming for, I also spent a bit of time cleaning the edge of the butterfly as it had quite a thick layer on it.

Before


After


Key things I did (no idea if these will ward off the dreaded ETC issues or not)
  1. Removed negative line from battery
  2. Unplugged TB
  3. Cleaned
  4. Bolted it all back together
  5. Connected battery
  6. Left the car in "ON" position for 3 minutes (while I updated by BlueDriver)
  7. Started car and checked for codes

Got a catchcan to mount somewhere but think I'll want to put it on the passenger side which will need a longer pipes for sure
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Last edited by Windex; 03-03-2018 at 01:22 PM.
  #11  
Old 03-03-2018
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Originally Posted by Windex View Post
also have to figure out if I have a 30mm or 33mm swaybar so I can order some new links as the old ones look tired and need refreshing.
The bracket's are different for the 33 and 30, 33's have a hump in the centre

https://www.justforjeeps.com/frswbarbu.html
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  #12  
Old 04-03-2018
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The bracket's are different for the 33 and 30, 33's have a hump in the centre

https://www.justforjeeps.com/frswbarbu.html
As I've got a 2005 it could be the one of the two options, I've definitely got the old style brackets, but from what I understand is that you can't get new brackets for the 30mm bar, so I've got to measure her up before I pull the trigger on either option.
  #13  
Old 27-06-2018
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Turned out that they were 33mm and once replaced with new rubber and new brackets my horrible clunking has also gone.

Had a new main muffler fitted which sounds good and has removed some of the exhaust leak, but suspect I've got one at the header also as it makes the horrible tick at idle when cold (pretty sure its header rather than lifter). Had to do a few random items, transmission pressure sensor along with full flush and filter change.


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  #14  
Old 02-07-2018
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As you suspect, it sounds like you have a leak from one of the exhaust manifolds. Either one is cracked or the gasket has blown out.

If the ticking sound only happens when its cold and then goes away when it warms up then def exhaust manifold.
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  #15  
Old 02-07-2018
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As you suspect, it sounds like you have a leak from one of the exhaust manifolds. Either one is cracked or the gasket has blown out.

If the ticking sound only happens when its cold and then goes away when it warms up then def exhaust manifold.
It will be a broken manifold stud, common Hemi problem.
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  #16  
Old 04-07-2018
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As you suspect, it sounds like you have a leak from one of the exhaust manifolds. Either one is cracked or the gasket has blown out.

If the ticking sound only happens when its cold and then goes away when it warms up then def exhaust manifold.
Yeah that tends to be the case
  #17  
Old 22-07-2018
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Well today did some work on it, nothing too exciting but had a few rumblings from the front of the car and suspected that it was bearings but not certain they were the cause but they werent terrible when I pulled them out. While I was in there I added new discs and new pads and did a fluid flush, both the pads and discs were in a pretty good state but they did have a lip on them so just got a RDA pack with both discs and pads for $190 delivered.
  #18  
Old 31-07-2018
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Well some more updates!!!!

Got my Superchips working (old version) and applied the lowest octane tune and adjusted tyre size and the car is much better at changing into 5th and locking the torque converter than it was prior to that change. I am assuming that the speedo being out was causing this behavior. I also spent a bit of time cruising around some dirt tracks (mild 4wding) and didnt get any ESP intervention so it appears to help correct that too.

Today I pulled my bash plates off and had a good look around under it to continue the search for my bearing issue and had a look at the usual culprits but nothing immediate came to light (other than damn its taken some good hits down there). I'm planning on removing the front driveshaft to see if I can find something there that is causing this.

Forgot to add while I was under the car I also had a chance to look at the front of the engine and looks like I've got a coolant leak! Suspecting a waterpump but not sure yet.


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Last edited by Windex; 31-07-2018 at 09:04 PM.
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