XJ: TD 'Pocket Tourer'

[Gojeep]

Sounds like the best idea to just flip the handbrake over to the other side.
As for a filler, you might want to think about having a Y filler so you can fill one or the other through the same hole. This is better in case you dont want to fill both all the time or one gets a leak. You might just want to pick up one of those chrome exhaust tips that split into two. Might just be able to cut the original filler leaving the first few inches and then with a short bit of hose connect the Y piece below it. You would want some of the orginial as think they have to be spark proof at the top where the petrol nozzle first touches.

[indertdxj]

Spark proof is a definate GOJEEP. I didn't think of that!

The exhaust tip Y piece Idea is great think that will be the way to go with the short length of hose so I can select which hole to fill.

I am sure that the breather will work for both tanks...Time will tell.

Thanks for the idea! Your a thinker!

[indertdxj]

I am busy moving houses at the moment and christmas is getting close (busy at work) so not too much progress.

Today however I took delivery of a 1996 fuel pump and sending unit and gues what? IT FITS the auxillary tank. I was hoping it would fit and wasnt too sure if the info I got was going to be correct but it turned out to be so.

I just need an aftermarket gauge to fit the sender unit...on the hunt. Once I get this and some gauge pods/switches the auxillary and long range fuel tank will be fitted as well as the air bags on rear springs (waiting on finalisation of order for parts to have in cab control).....write ups coming when I am done!

[Gojeep]

Look forward to how you do the in cab air springs control. I want to do this when I convert my front coils to air springs as well.

[indertdxj]

I don't think the airbag control is as hard as I thought originally. This is what I am thinking so far.....

Air tank set up as normal OBA (electric cut off etc, blowoff safety, check valve etc....more detailed write with pics when I do it.)

I found this company

http://www.aimind.com/

they do the valve pictured. This valve has a inlet from the tank and an outlet to the air bag as well as a outlet for a gauge and one to the atmosphere. So tank plugs in, bags plug in on other side, gauge plugs in and a hose to a safe place (probably with breather on end) that vents the the atmosphere. The valve is switched by twelve volt. So I figure two relays with 12v running to them and then a momentary throw switch to the relay. The momentary throw will be DPDT so pushing up will control valve to let air in (inflating air bags), throwing switch down will deflate air bags.

SIMPLE! I figured momentary switch so you can't go overboard and one solenoid valve for both airbags (airbags connected by running hose to a T piece and then to solenoid). Ideally you could have one solenoid for each bag and one switch for each solenoid or go more and more complex depends how much you want to spend. For example you could have a system so one switch inflates all four/two at same time but another to do each individually. I figure I am only using it when carrying weight and trailer (with dirtbike, fuel camping stuff etc...and dual tyre carrier when i get there) so most of the time it will have minimum pressure.

Solenoid is $55US and $50 shipping.

[Gojeep]

You really want to be able to keep left and right separated for highway use as otherwise you will get a lot of body roll. But for off road, having left and right being able to transfer air on the same axle is an advantage. If fact on the later Land Rover and Range Rovers, they do exactly that as part of the terrain response setup. Bags are kept separated for hwy and linked for off road to increase wheel travel.

[indertdxj]

Today I though I would make a start on all of this. I have been waiting to get everything together and make it in one big attempt ie: air tank, airbags, auxillary tank and main tank. This way I can wire it all in together in one neat job.

I am waiting on the air solenoid valve and other parts so thought tonight I would move the handbrake to the drivers side (as it is where the auxillary tank fits on passenger side).

First I pulled the rear wheel and tyre off to have a look at what it would involve to get the handbrake off. It doesnt look too hard. When I pull the assembly that attaches to the chassis rail off the lines running to the drum will be loose and they will 'unhook' from the shoe...easy.

Then on the drivers side I thought I will have to drill and tap the chassis rail to bolt the new assembly on (at this stage I have not removed it...) but there is a hole there already and surprise a inspection hole. When I stuck my finger in it i could feel a nut welded to the other end...what a spot of luck.

Its at this stage that I realise the hugely oversize muffler is going to be in the road of the new location of the handbrake as it almost sits up agaings the chassis rail at just the right location....I knew something would go wrong.

I figure its time for a better exhaust anyway. I was going to remove it as it looked easy: in front of the muffler a U-bolt clamp attaches the rear of the exhaust to the front section and the nuts all came undone easily.

Its when I went to remove the mounts at the rear I ran into a spot of bother. I left my 18mm socket at work and of course my 18mm spanner. So this will have to wait for another time. I did not want to cut the mounts off as I was hoping they would be usable for the new system.

The one day I get home from work early enough and am motivated....Oh well. The plan will be as follows:

One night this week I will move the handbrake and pull the exhaust off.
Then I will install the main and auxillary tank and wire in the sender for the auxillary tank.
Then the parts will arrive (maybe from santa!) for the air system for tank and airbags. I am going to get the tank and airbag stuff wired up and working and then install the air bag.

Hopefully it will be done not long after new years.