FireTruck's 2013 JKU Rubi build... - Page 10 - AUSJEEPOFFROAD.COM Jeep News Australia and New Zealand

FireTruck · #64 30-12-2012

Na, I'm going to go airbumps - fox's. I don't like the compressed length of the speedbumps in the rear, and want some scope to tune them.

Airbump inside the jounce tube in the front (like the Tera speedbumps)... they will be 4" cans internally limited to 2" stroke. In the rear I will french the can holders into the frame and run 2.5" stroke bumps.

I have all the gear to charge shocks and air bumps - used to have to do it on the buggy (airshocks). Nitrogen bottle, regulator, zero loss fitting, etc. Plan is to run the stock ones with the 3" spacers to start... just to get the spacing dialed in. Then I'll do the airbumps.

That's the plan!

S.

FireTruck · #65 31-12-2012

Well, I found an enormous post on JKO on the loose rod end on the drag link flip kit... seems I am not alone! Temporary solution was to put a washer uner the castle nut, which allowed me to get it tight and torqued... contacted Synergy to see what the ultimate fix will be.

I also installed the stock steering stabilzer... need a special bracket for the fox stabilizer which is due in mid Jan. This will do for now. Here is the rod end on the drag link - tight, but over-inserted so there isn't much movement in it. Still must fix!

Then on to finishing off the rear - quick cut and grind on the grinder to remove a bracket, some paint, and on it went - pretty simple install, and looks to have nicely centred the rear (just a bit off, but once the lift settles it should be nuts on).

So much tightening bolts to 125 or 150 foot pounds that I broke my torque wrench!! So they were all done up 'super tight' - until my arms were ready to fall off.

Control arms also installed in the rear... no major dramas, trolley jack under the pinion to adjust when the new arms went on, and all good. These are nice and beefy. Mmmmmm, beefy.

All that's left (I think) is to run around the slam some Molly grease in all the zerks all over the place... and then when my motivation returns I need to install thos extended brake lines.

FireTruck · #66 31-12-2012

...and a few quick poser driveway shots to polish it off before NYE celebrations...

With the trailer on the back - had to hook it up to move it back in the garage... JK is now a tad high, so had to flip the hitch to make it a bit lower!

This lift is still frickin huge... still over 4". Really hope it settles!!

Happy New Year!!

S.

FireTruck · #67 01-01-2013

Hangover day... and I am actually quite sore from all the wrenching this past week - so had the day off!

I did grease the joints on the new front end links, and the rear control arms... not sure how much grease went into the flex joints (Johnny joints?) - tough to get the grease in.

Test drive results:

- I haven't centered the steering wheel using the procal... I just did it using the old eye-chromater, and there are no errors coming up. Maybe I got lucky, or my eyes are well calibrated. Not sure how long it takes to get the 'steering wheel not centred' error... but so far so good.

- Body roll hasn't increased much at all (that I can feel) - quite amazing for a 3" lift (that is actually a 4" lift!). Cornering feels great, but I am not exactly throwing it around... its still not a sports car (thank goodness).

- In general, feels great... springs and shocks work great together, under braking feels good, no vibrations that I can pick yet after driving the streets and a stint in the freeway, nothing under acceleration, and no increase in torque squat under acceleration (that I can 'feel'). I set the length of the rear control arms pretty much as per the instructions, but kept the uppers a bit shorter than recommended (until I put the new driveshafts on)... I set the lowers at 14mm longer than stock, the uppers are 18mm longer than stock.

- My dodgey 'lay under the jeep with a tape measure, measuring the distance between rears and fronts of tyres' alignment, seems to be ok so far... I was aiming for about 3mm of toe in. I intend to double check this using a slightly less dodgey method (slightly)... by strapping 2 x 1.2m spirit levels to the outside of the tyres, and using them to measure the toe in and adjust.

- A bit more wander now, as the front end caster has changed a degree or 2, I reckon... don't know for sure, a mate borrowed mt angle finder and it hasn't made its way back! Its not dramatic, but I can feel it. Might be able to dial it in when the adjustable front control arms turn up, but its not a major concern.

So far I am pretty happy... very happy.

S.

FireTruck · #68 02-01-2013

Updates for the day...

First, this happened on the way home from work!

I guess that means I could go in for my 1k service checkup... that would be interesting.

Anyway, once I was home I decided to install grab handles - the Synergy ones from DBOR. The Mrs has had a few choice words about how high the JK is now, and how difficult it is to get in. Just like the old days... so, on go the handles.

Since I was going to have to pull all the trim off around the doors and windscreen header, I figured I would also run the wiring for the Spod switch panel and install it. Of course, doing all of this (including a fair amount of panel trimming to get everything to fit) took twice as long as I expected... but the results are pretty cool.

...this is the Spod switch panel with space for an Aeroforce gauge... now I need to get one to fill the hole! I ran the wiring down around the windshield following the wiring for the fancy auto-dimming mirror with LED map lights... past the mic for the phone/uconnect... under the dash to exit into the engine bay where I will mount that fuse/relay box I posted a pic of last month.

S.

FireTruck · #69 04-01-2013

Well I wouldn't want you all to think I am slacking off too much...

Here is the custom hoop TIG'd to the front bumper. Hoop is set to cover the winch, allow enough room on the outside for some lights (Duallys). There are also a couple of light/antenna/sand flag brackets on the top, and a couple of # plate tabs on the front... I like having the plate there to help protect the winch (have also done this on previous builds). The plate and winch are both below the grill, so don't obstruct air flow to the radiator and coolers.

The lay-back angle of the hoop matches the grill angle - as much as it can given the grill is curved.

THese pics are without the bar fully bolted up - no recovery points etc. I have a bit of tidying up to do, and then I wait for the powder coaters to come back from vacation to get a lick-o-powder.

S.

FireTruck · #70 05-01-2013

OK... cleaned up the bar a bit, hit a couple of spots on the cross member and frame with the grinder that were wtill a bit tight, slap of paint here and there, and bolted the bar back on... now, finally, we are ready for powder coating!