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  #7834  
Old 02-05-2012
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HemiJeep  HemiJeep is offline
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Cypher. I did the same brake in wrong way around thing - like Duh - once you know right? But it was good then started locking up and then soon could do skids in the driveway at about 10kmh.. Got them in the right way and all cool since, but I was worried about the drums being close to the minimum 230mm as per BIG letters on the drum itself. They were right on 230 so I bought new ones ... They are like 2mm smaller .. It's not a big difference! Maybe check yours if they have run right out of wear.. I have a set of 230mm if you want them..
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  #7835  
Old 02-05-2012
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OK this isn't an XJ but replaced the fr and rr brake pads on the WH due to skweel... God I hate that sound! The pads looked about half way down there clearance cuts but compared to the news ones? Big difference. $120 bucks front and much same rear. No Screeching brakes - I am in love again... Pads from Autobarn TWR brand. I did do all the quiet brake spray and cleaning before - no change. (Except what I spent trying to not spend on new pads)
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  #7836  
Old 03-05-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cypher View Post
pulled the front driveshaft today, had to cut one of the bolts at the tfer case end cos the head was rounded good news is vibrations completley gone. here's a question, is the front driveshaft supposed to have a boot over the slip yoke? cos both the ones I've had in haven't, and they're both worn out at the yoke now
No the slip joint isn't meant to have a boot over it, if you need a transfer case yoke let me know as I have a transfer case that I have stripped down...
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  #7837  
Old 03-05-2012
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Originally Posted by junglejuice View Post
No the slip joint isn't meant to have a boot over it, if you need a transfer case yoke let me know as I have a transfer case that I have stripped down...
I think I might put one on the next tailshaft I get. It's the slip joint thing that's failed on both of them. For now I'll just run with no front tailshaft...hope I don't need 4wd
  #7838  
Old 03-05-2012
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the proportioning valve mod was just to remove the seal yeah? I've been looking at that, my brakes are pretty average at the moment and I've replaced everything except the booster and the steel hard-lines. Wasn't too keen on modding the proportioning valve but I might have to because they aren't too common on the parts sites...
i got mine recoed from a brake place cost me 20 bucks and he left the seal out at the same time and now works a treat
(master cylinder exchange in wynnum)
  #7839  
Old 03-05-2012
ADVJake  ADVJake is offline
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took it to pedders for the $14 safety check, and got a price shock and the list of all the shit needs doing.
now evaluating whether to fix it or cut my losses. If i do decide to fix it i could source all my parts from the states and do it myself, but still looking at least 2k in parts
  #7840  
Old 03-05-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ADVJake View Post
took it to pedders for the $14 safety check, and got a price shock and the list of all the shit needs doing.
now evaluating whether to fix it or cut my losses. If i do decide to fix it i could source all my parts from the states and do it myself, but still looking at least 2k in parts
What could cost 2000 in parts that Peddars would be looking at?
reminds me of a common rail diesel that went in for a fuel leak and ended up passed 9000.00 in repair bill.
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