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  #10417  
Old 08-07-2013
Tuffeb  Tuffeb is offline
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Originally Posted by XJeepers View Post
Thanks Steve. I was looking at something around 4", but might rethink this as you are running a similar setup to what I will be running.
im back down to 3 inches of lift short term

running almost full tread 35x11.5 pedes more like 36 inches tall

chopped the guards a shit load more still rubs out under full flex with no sway bar under turning, little bit on the straight too but the shockers are stuffed.

easy need 4 inch or 5 inch lift with still a big trim

im running standard jeep 15x8 mags and 30 mm spacers. not sure the offset

i just picked up some 15x7 bead lock rims that have 4 1/2 back spacing i think pretty decent so i should be able to delete the wheel spacers and just run the rims with 6.5 lift and new un chopped guards lol
  #10418  
Old 09-07-2013
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Default What did you do to your XJ today ?

Fitted an optima yellow top, over having to jump start it on the cold mornings and changed the return lines over with some 2mm rubber hosing



Question: my pinion seal is leaking in my d35. I have to tools and seals ready to go just unsure on how much to torque the pinion nut to. Does anyone know how much torque it needs? the manual simply says to torque by eye plus 1/8th of a turn.
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Last edited by mud_slut; 09-07-2013 at 11:57 AM. Reason: sorry meant D35 (rear diff)
  #10419  
Old 09-07-2013
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Default What did you do to your XJ today ?

Yay yellow top! They run well

From what I read up recently, that sound about right. The more you torque, the more you change where the ring/pinion mesh together.

Most videos say to mark the thread and return it to the same place for the same position.
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  #10420  
Old 09-07-2013
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Default What did you do to your XJ today ?

Quote:
Originally Posted by darksidecustoms View Post
Yay yellow top! They run well

From what I read up recently, that sound about right. The more you torque, the more you change where the ring/pinion mesh together.

Most videos say to mark the thread and return it to the same place for the same position.
Thanks darkside. Yeah nearly all the videos say to use that method, from what I understand if you tighten it up too much you can place more preload on the pinion gear and get vibrations in the diff. I may just have to use that method then, was hoping to get it spot on with the torque wrench though
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  #10421  
Old 09-07-2013
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With the d30 the pinion preload is set by shims unlike the d35 so you shouldn't change the pinion/crown wheel mesh as it is fixed, you can overload the bearings if the shims allow, from memory the yoke is something like 250ft-lbs but the 1/8 turn of the nut is also familiar if you're doing nothing else but changing the seal....
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  #10422  
Old 09-07-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by junglejuice View Post
With the d30 the pinion preload is set by shims unlike the d35 so you shouldn't change the pinion/crown wheel mesh as it is fixed, you can overload the bearings if the shims allow, from memory the yoke is something like 250ft-lbs but the 1/8 turn of the nut is also familiar if you're doing nothing else but changing the seal....

sorry JJ i meant D35 (the rear diff) i dont know why i wrote d30
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  #10423  
Old 09-07-2013
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got hung up on a rock
bent leaf pack and...


whoops.
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