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  #106  
Old 11-12-2015
LuluBelle's Avatar
LuluBelle  LuluBelle is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by layback40 View Post
Revs going up by 200 at a given speed sounds like torque converter unlocking. I really think you need to get a good mechanic who knows jeeps to have a good look at it & stop trying to diagnose over the internet.
Really here we go again the transmission is 3000 k since a $3500 rebuild I have poured $$$$ into this Cherokee Stupid Me I suppose but never the less the Tranny is good and as far as trying to diagnose over the internet I have no choice out here in central Queensland the only mechanics in town are scared of anything more than a landcruiser hilux or a commodore its sad so I have to do it myself!
So as far as the overheating concerns go I looked at the crank angle sensor and ? my wires run from the plug through the inlet manifold not like on a you tube vid it goes down the back of the motor and there is a clamp to hold the wire off a fuel rail bolt so I believe the mine was changed a while back pre me!
As far as waterless coolant goes I dunno now I rang the ph number to talk about this Aussie waterless coolant as soon as I mentioned Jeep the conversation slowed so I am not going to go there I think I am going to put a scoop on the bonnet to dump colder air on the back of the engine I don't care about cutting holes in the bonnet as whats a XJ worth these days
Don't get me wrong I love my XJ purchased for $750 and I have spent $5000 on it new diff gearbox shocks cooling system ignition sensors so I am past the point of no return the clear is shot and looks like shit but mechanically is good
It just runs too hot
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  #107  
Old 11-12-2015
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junglejuice  junglejuice is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LuluBelle View Post
Really here we go again the transmission is 3000 k since a $3500 rebuild I have poured $$$$ into this Cherokee Stupid Me I suppose but never the less the Tranny is good and as far as trying to diagnose over the internet I have no choice out here in central Queensland the only mechanics in town are scared of anything more than a landcruiser hilux or a commodore its sad so I have to do it myself!
So as far as the overheating concerns go I looked at the crank angle sensor and ? my wires run from the plug through the inlet manifold not like on a you tube vid it goes down the back of the motor and there is a clamp to hold the wire off a fuel rail bolt so I believe the mine was changed a while back pre me!
As far as waterless coolant goes I dunno now I rang the ph number to talk about this Aussie waterless coolant as soon as I mentioned Jeep the conversation slowed so I am not going to go there I think I am going to put a scoop on the bonnet to dump colder air on the back of the engine I don't care about cutting holes in the bonnet as whats a XJ worth these days
Don't get me wrong I love my XJ purchased for $750 and I have spent $5000 on it new diff gearbox shocks cooling system ignition sensors so I am past the point of no return the clear is shot and looks like shit but mechanically is good
It just runs too hot
Two things, the metal clamp on the wiring for the crank sensor is factory but seriously, haven't you changed this YET???
Secondly adding a scoop to force air into the engine bay sounds like a good idea but this will then reduce the airflow through the radiator due to the positive air pressure build up from the "fresh" air reducing flow through the radiator.

You clearly have an issue that hasn't been fixed yet, untill this is actually rectified no amount of mods will "fix" it.... Sorry....
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  #108  
Old 21-12-2015
werd  werd is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rainman View Post
Not to sure exactly what u are asking but here goes.
Most coolents contain a fluorescent die, when illuminated but uv light it glows, or fluoresces.
So when you shine a black light into the engine bay (esp at night)any leaks, still wet or even ones that have dried, stand out like the proveribal dog balls.

So all you need is a black light source, you can get light bulbs that will go in your inspection lamp, but a tourch for less than $5 bucks deliverd from China- seemed easiest and cheapest option- you do have to wait a month for it to arrive though.

Sometimes the ac system has a fluorescent dye in it to help with leak detection as well.

On a side note, Shining a black light around yr back yard at night can be interesting. Also if you have young boys, shining it around the toilet at night is a bit of a eye opener 😁.

http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/Camping-H...+torch&_sop=12

Hope that answers the question.
Well I got my blacklight and was able to identify an overheating issue that has been bugging me for a month. Thanks for the tip rainman.
My problem was as follows:
Six weeks ago I went on holidays. I did the usual servicing and prechecks prior to leaving. I even rewired my twin electric fan system that only activated with the high temp signal, to the junglejuice two speed system.
So I'm 1500kms from home. 400kms from the nearest town where I could get spare parts. I've been traveling for four days with temperatures in the low 30's. Then one day it hit 42 when, pow! Out of the blue, on comes the check guages warning and the temp guage is off the scale. The radiator was boiling. So I waited for it to cool down. I was unable to identify a problem. Topped it up with water. Rewired both fans straight to the battery so they are always high speed and then drive slowly back to camp. When it cooled down, still unable to identify the problem, I removed the thermostat for the drive into the next town. I was thinking it might have been the radiator cap not holding the pressure. So I picked up a new one and installed it. Off I go to the next camp site and its boiling again!
Now things are getting serious. Not even half way into the holiday and I'm thinking I might have to limp home. Looking at the car again for possible problems, I decided that I would reconnect the fans to the dual speed system. It was then I discovered when I had rewired the system, I had reversed the polarity on one of the fans. Instead of pulling air through it was trying to push air into the radiator against the incoming air. Stupid!!! No wonder it boiled over.
So I fixed this and continued driving happy I had fixed the issue. Which was a good thing as we were heading for mid 40's up the road.
Alas, I hadn't fixed it. I suspected it was a leak - but where? I worked out that if I sat on about 80km/h, I could get home with no more boiling over.
Now that I'm home, I hosed off the motor and drove it around a couple of days getting it nice and hot. Last night I got out the blacklight and I confirmed a small leak around the water pump. Yahoo! I wouldn't have picked this up without a blacklight. I'm keeping one in the toolbox now!
Interestingly, the first thing I did was check the dipstick for water. It glowed green! Oh no. Water in the oil. But, when I was under the car, I knew of a small oil leak from the rear main seal, this also glowed green. So I got out some fresh motor oil and discovered manufacturers put something florescent in their oil. You learn something every day😃

I'm not fixing it, I'm improving it!
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  #109  
Old 21-12-2015
junglejuice's Avatar
junglejuice  junglejuice is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by werd View Post
Well I got my blacklight and was able to identify an overheating issue that has been bugging me for a month. Thanks for the tip rainman.
My problem was as follows:
Six weeks ago I went on holidays. I did the usual servicing and prechecks prior to leaving. I even rewired my twin electric fan system that only activated with the high temp signal, to the junglejuice two speed system.
So I'm 1500kms from home. 400kms from the nearest town where I could get spare parts. I've been traveling for four days with temperatures in the low 30's. Then one day it hit 42 when, pow! Out of the blue, on comes the check guages warning and the temp guage is off the scale. The radiator was boiling. So I waited for it to cool down. I was unable to identify a problem. Topped it up with water. Rewired both fans straight to the battery so they are always high speed and then drive slowly back to camp. When it cooled down, still unable to identify the problem, I removed the thermostat for the drive into the next town. I was thinking it might have been the radiator cap not holding the pressure. So I picked up a new one and installed it. Off I go to the next camp site and its boiling again!
Now things are getting serious. Not even half way into the holiday and I'm thinking I might have to limp home. Looking at the car again for possible problems, I decided that I would reconnect the fans to the dual speed system. It was then I discovered when I had rewired the system, I had reversed the polarity on one of the fans. Instead of pulling air through it was trying to push air into the radiator against the incoming air. Stupid!!! No wonder it boiled over.
So I fixed this and continued driving happy I had fixed the issue. Which was a good thing as we were heading for mid 40's up the road.
Alas, I hadn't fixed it. I suspected it was a leak - but where? I worked out that if I sat on about 80km/h, I could get home with no more boiling over.
Now that I'm home, I hosed off the motor and drove it around a couple of days getting it nice and hot. Last night I got out the blacklight and I confirmed a small leak around the water pump. Yahoo! I wouldn't have picked this up without a blacklight. I'm keeping one in the toolbox now!
Interestingly, the first thing I did was check the dipstick for water. It glowed green! Oh no. Water in the oil. But, when I was under the car, I knew of a small oil leak from the rear main seal, this also glowed green. So I got out some fresh motor oil and discovered manufacturers put something florescent in their oil. You learn something every day😃

I'm not fixing it, I'm improving it!
Good to hear that you found your issue....

If you'd used my circuit in its entirity it has the option via a switch to force high speed on....
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2014 WK2 Overland
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  #110  
Old 21-12-2015
werd  werd is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by junglejuice View Post
Good to hear that you found your issue....

If you'd used my circuit in its entirity it has the option via a switch to force high speed on....
Ran out of time. I did the rewire the night before I left. I've got the switch connected now. Looking forward to going 4wdriving on the weekend.


I'm not fixing it, I'm improving it!
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Jeep Cherokee XJ 10/1997
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  #111  
Old 30-12-2015
Billnick's Avatar
Billnick  Billnick is offline
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While you're there check that the fan is on the right way, so that the concave side of the blade is to the rear of the engine. As the blade turns it has to throw the air backwards.
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  #112  
Old 30-12-2015
werd  werd is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Billnick View Post
While you're there check that the fan is on the right way, so that the concave side of the blade is to the rear of the engine. As the blade turns it has to throw the air backwards.
OK, will do that. But I'm not going to tell you what I find...

I'm not fixing it, I'm improving it!
__________________
https://youtu.be/rFFrOmTUf4g
"I'm not fixing it, I'm improving it!"

Jeep Cherokee XJ 10/1997
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