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  #8  
Old 27-11-2012
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Thanks, all good points. There are def benefits to getting one from your local guy etc. However for me the price was too good and was wondering if there was anyone here who's had experience with them. Anyway I have purchased one now and just need to wait for it to arrive.

I will report back what the quality is like... I know the price was low, but I hope I'll be reporting back that the quality is at least equivilent of the OEM rad.

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Originally Posted by Hanna View Post
Are you back in a WJ Turismo??
Yep , so glad to be back in one.
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  #9  
Old 27-11-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turismo07 View Post
Thanks, all good points. There are def benefits to getting one from your local guy etc. However for me the price was too good and was wondering if there was anyone here who's had experience with them. Anyway I have purchased one now and just need to wait for it to arrive.

I will report back what the quality is like... I know the price was low, but I hope I'll be reporting back that the quality is at least equivilent of the OEM rad.



Yep , so glad to be back in one.
Nice one mate, glad to have you back!!

What did you buy this time? I assume a V8 Limited again? Is it still stock, and if so, what mods do you have planned?

Let me know how the eBay radiator is because mine is due and I have been considering one myself.
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  #10  
Old 12-12-2012
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Default Radiator all good, but got some leaks...

So I've got the radiator and fitted it last night after work (I cannot believe how much of the front end has to come apart to get the radiator out!).

Regarding the radiator itself, it looks great. Looks exactly like the stock one, with a few differences but nothing as far as quality. I will post pics up later. And also I've yet to actually run the Jeep with it so that'll be the real test .

I've hit a bit of a speed bump though. Filled it with coolant tonight and ran the engine for the first time and checked for leaks. I've got a leak from the lower trans fitting on the actual radiator itself and a leak from the thermostat housing (which I removed and put back on..).

Q1: The brass fittings for the trans lines on the radiator I fitted myself, and just screwed them on without any form of sealant. Should I have used plumber's tape on them? I didn't put anything on there cos it didn't look like the stock radiator had anything, so I followed suit...

Q2: What should I use to seal the thermostat? I've got a tube of RTV sealant, will this be ok even though I'd normally use it on diff hats, sumps, etc? I removed the thermostat to inspect it and I put it back on exactly the same as it came off (didn't seem to have any form of sealant in there)? And I've cranked the housing pretty tight, any tighter and I'm scared I'll break it!

Cheers,
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  #11  
Old 13-12-2012
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just remember: even when your taking parts off they might be up to 10 years old, the sealers are possibly warn so much so that they look like they have nothing either the sealer paint stuff and TBH plumers tape... i'm NOT 100% that'd work because your talking temps kinda high up there it's not like hot water in your house, yes that's hot but not radiator pressure hot... i'm not sure what else you could use sorry, but just my thoughts on why you wouldn't want to use plumers tape

hope you can get it sorted out also too!!! maybe check your water pump whilst your at it... nothing worse that putting all this in to find out your gonna pull it apart again just to get to the water pump!!!!

Si!!!
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  #12  
Old 19-12-2012
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Default Radiator Done :)

Ok got the new radiator in and sorted the other night.

Had to do the job twice cos of the leaks. Took me forever to get the whole front end of the Jeep apart to get the rad out, but the second time took me 1 hour to have the rad on the ground! Amazing what knowledge and experience does for ya . For anyone that needs to do this, don't be put off, it is a really straight forward job, just follow the dots so to speak and you're there, just daunting the first time you do it.

I bought this rad: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/320644571...84.m1497.l2649. They were good guys to deal with and it arrived to me in Perth in 3 days.

The new rad is almost identical to the old stock one, its weird actually how similar they are.

The only fitment difference was the new rad didn’t have any holes along the bottom of the core for the ‘rubber strip’ to connect to. No big deal. The rubber strip normally attaches to the rad and closes off the 30-40mm gap between the bottom of rad core and the lower rad support.

Here’s what I mean:
That’s the rubber strip in the black part on the bottom with its plastic screw/clip thing that would normally match up to a hole in the bottom of rad core:




You could drill the necessary holes to fit it but I didn’t bother.

Otherwise all the ‘hardware’ on the old rad has to be transferred over to the new rad (i.e. mounts etc)

After fitting the new rad I had x3 leaks. From thermostat housing, lower trans line at rad end, and overflow bottle hose leaking at rad end.

So I went to Supercheap and got these:


Blue RTV was for the thermostat – just apply to the outside of the thermostat itself on both sides of it so it seals to the housing surfaces.

Thread sealant was for the trans line – it was the inserted brass fitting that was leaking (it’s supplied with the rad, but you have to screw it in yourself) so applied it to the threads of both upper and lower (BTW these are slightly tapered fittings). Then also applied some to the actual trans line itself just to be sure (which from my research suggested that this was not necessary).

The small hose clamp was for the overflow bottle hose.

The larger hose clamps was just to replace the stupid factory clamps that having to pull everything apart the 2nd time gave me the opportunity to do.

After putting it all together and finishing about 12am, I left it to sit and not fill it with coolant to allow the sealants to dry/set overnight.

Next morning filled it with Nulon’s Long Life 50/50. Made sure I got all the air out the system etc.

After a few days now of driving, no leaks from anywhere, and temps are stable between 94-96 degrees when driving. If stationary at traffic lights on 30 degree day, then temps can rise to 102 degrees, but drop massively fast when the vehicle gets moving (or as soon as the revs rise spinning the clutch fan faster, or the AC is on and the aux fan comes on). So all good

Strangely enough, even with my old radiator in and leaking coolant everywhere (and importantly not holding pressure) and having to add approx 2-3 litres to it everyday the Jeep actually ran pretty much the same temps as I mentioned above. Makes me think the cooling system is quite efficient and has a fair amount of ‘headroom’ should things go wrong.. Makes you wonder about how far people go with neglect when you hear about a WJ that’s overheated (and usually results in head sealing issues)…
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  #13  
Old 19-12-2012
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That's a pretty general statement, my car only ran warm for 15 minutes when my water pump went, it only got up to 103, and it dropped valve seats and warped a head. It's not always neglect. From what I've read it's usually something that happens pretty quickly after a component failure......
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  #14  
Old 19-12-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by v8val View Post
That's a pretty general statement, my car only ran warm for 15 minutes when my water pump went, it only got up to 103, and it dropped valve seats and warped a head. It's not always neglect. From what I've read it's usually something that happens pretty quickly after a component failure......
Yeah you're right v8val, was being very general. Thanks for your info, and sorry to hear that has happened to you, that is very scary! I just remember my XJ days where the rad/cooling system is at its absolute limits to try and keep the temps under control on the 4.0L, and is very sensitive to slightly lower coolant levels or any part not functioning at it best...

I'd have to say though that cos your water pump died, there would not have been enough/any coolant travelling through the motor and hence there would have been hot spots and the coolant temp sensor would not have picked that up. But yes, a water pump failure would cause massive amount of damage in any vehicle, esp our iron block and alloy head 4.7's!
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