Need swift advice please. On WG water in tranny @#$& up.

[cherokee94nz]

Not to far, do as Rusty Nuts says. I did it to mine a few years ago and drove 300km before flushing, 18 months later last drive on the open road then replaced.

[Hoobz]

Just repeating, I am really appreciating all the advice and comments.

I'm just paranoid about the moisture sitting in there right now, doing it's corroding thing. It was fresh water.

I can't get to it until after work, but quick searching on the net here and other sites, says I should be good to go with any good brand ATF-4.

I'll ring around for pricing, including from Jeep. Get the filter kit too.

If anyone knows that I absolutely have no choice but to use the Mopar ATF-4 please let me know.

Off to work.


Cheers

Dave.

[Hoobz]

I have got 20 L of this Penrite ATF FS. Meets •Chrysler MS 9602 (ATF+4)

$170.

http://www.penriteoil.com.au/product...d_products=336

No idea if 20L will do the job

Jeep wanted $36 per 1L bottle. $720 for 20L

Or, if I brought in my own drum -> $27 per L. $540 for 20L

Bought a filter kit too.

[senatorjohn]

Not speaking from experience, if it was mine. I would do the flush with the drive wheels off the ground and the cooler line undone to discharge the contaminated oil and keep filling it as stated by rustynuts. If you run it with wheels off the ground, it can run through the gear changes and flush the various servos. Seeing it is not being run under a drive load, you MAY be safe using a cheaper oil and lots more of it to ensure a good flush, then when all appears clear, refill with correct specs oil after you drain as much as you can and change filters again.
Not envious of your situation.
John

[v8val]

I use the penrite 4+ For servicing, it changes the same as when it had mopar sfuff and is way cheaper

[Hoobz]

I did as Rusty recommended last night.

Drained from the return line coming from the radiator.

Put approx 15L through. It's still not clear red, much less choc milk, more like blood actually.

Testing in the backyard has me worried. It acts like it has a higher revving stall converter. Grabs hard at about 1200 rpm, forward or reverse. It's also shuddering noticeably. It's not good, yet. Maybe more flushage needed?

Smoke, steam or both, was coming out of the filler/dipstick tube within 5 minutes of gentle backyard testing.

Should I get more ATF (possibly cheaper version like senatorJ says) and keep flushing, or does it sound like it needs a rebuild, going off how it's driving now?


Not sure. Sink more ATF money down the drain, or bight bullets, and rebuild this tranny

I've rebuilt manual boxes and just about everything else on a car. Can I do an auto? I am keen to learn about them, with a decent manual, shouldn't be too hard?

Hmmmm.

More input form you experienced ones appreciated.

[oldon]

If you still have the pan off I'd give it a good wipe any where you can reach, then spray with some degreaser everywhere inside you can. Won't help internal oilways' but it may get any crap that can wash down into pan later. Pull off cooler lines at trans & blow air through before flush might get rid of crap & might help use less oil for flushing. Breather at roof height next? Good luck mate.